Author Topic: 3/1 CS Restoration  (Read 22025 times)

38ac

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Re: 3/1 CS Restoration
« Reply #15 on: September 18, 2025, 01:27:57 AM »
Screw it in until it restricts movement of the pump tappet, then out just far enough that the tappet moves freely in the bore, then tighten the lock nut
Collector and horder of about anything diesel

PeteDV

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Re: 3/1 CS Restoration
« Reply #16 on: September 21, 2025, 01:58:56 PM »
Time to take care of the rusty old flywheels!

I fashioned up an octagon out of timber and double lined it with plastic to make the acid bath. Boy, it stinks, and my chest feels like I just smoked a pack of dhurries! But the results are in, and it is good. I sprayed them with water and then a strong mix of sodium carbonate, then rinsed some more. They got the usual flash rust but then I wiped them down with phosphoric acid rust converter. Problem solved.

Painting, soon.


PeteDV

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Re: 3/1 CS Restoration
« Reply #17 on: October 07, 2025, 03:12:58 AM »
Progress!

The cylinder has been bored and honed. Interesting to note that the cylinder has a liner in it, something that must have been done many years ago. The crank has been ground and resized. It had a very bad taper on one side of the crank pin. I am still waiting on the head to get new seats and guides, and the rod will be closed and honed to perfection and the undersize bearing machined to suit the crank pin.

A lot of work has gone into saving as many of the original machined nuts and bolts as possible.

PeteDV

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Re: 3/1 CS Restoration
« Reply #18 on: October 15, 2025, 01:01:33 PM »
Shaky hands be damned, I gave it a good shot and it looks OK.  :)

Still waiting on the head and the rod.  :(

PeteDV

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Re: 3/1 CS Restoration
« Reply #19 on: October 24, 2025, 04:09:30 AM »
I got the rod back today. Luke, my good friend of 40 years, did the machining for me. The rod was 'close and honed' to achieve the correct crush on the bearing without the use of shims. The bearing was then installed and machined for the correct clearance on the newly finished crank pin. No bearing scraping around here!

PeteDV

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Re: 3/1 CS Restoration
« Reply #20 on: December 01, 2025, 05:25:42 AM »

keith71

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Re: 3/1 CS Restoration
« Reply #21 on: December 02, 2025, 01:24:45 AM »
Nice job on that one.. Sounds like a good runner.. Question if I may.. I have the same exact generator head 3600 rpm ?  I see you are using a serpentine type belt. My question is where did you find the matching serpintine pulley for the gen head?  Is it a 28mm shaft taper lock pulley? I just have a dual vbelt pulley for mine.. Afraid it wont track correctly on the big flywheel.. Thanks for any info you could share..
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Jiangdong R170.

PeteDV

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Re: 3/1 CS Restoration
« Reply #22 on: December 02, 2025, 02:30:31 AM »
Nice job on that one.. Sounds like a good runner.. Question if I may.. I have the same exact generator head 3600 rpm ?  I see you are using a serpentine type belt. My question is where did you find the matching serpintine pulley for the gen head?  Is it a 28mm shaft taper lock pulley? I just have a dual vbelt pulley for mine.. Afraid it wont track correctly on the big flywheel.. Thanks for any info you could share..

It is an L-section 6 rib. The pulley is a two-piece taper lock, as you correctly said. RPM is 3000 for 50Hz.

PeteDV

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Re: 3/1 CS Restoration
« Reply #23 on: December 02, 2025, 02:39:52 AM »
Next job, I am going to remove the flywheels etc and take a stab at balancing this machine better. It is a bit jumpy (up-down) and has a weird left and right rocking to it. This suggests to me that, not only is the balance out, but also the two flywheels have differing weights/counterweights. Are these even the original flywheels or a matching pair? No idea, but anything is possible to have taken place over the last 90 years of its existence.

I have some 2" bright bar and a motorcycle wheel balancer and will check things out first using the string and bucket method. See where we go from there.

At low RPM, as seen in the video, it is pretty stable. Once the revs come up it gets a bit spicy.