Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: couple of old SOMs
« Last post by mihit on May 04, 2021, 09:05:55 AM »
Yep. Auction sites can be dangerous. Some people asking way over the odds. (And some people paying it!)

I don't know about the startomatics. Looks very similar to CS.
Listard, does that indicate chrome bore? There was some plate/patent number which would confirm that.

Rusty... and as a non-runner it's really up to you what it's worth. I suppose if it spins over freely that's a plus. Down on compression could just be stuck rings or valve. Seller seems pretty honest and up-front. I wont be bidding against ya on this one!
Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« Last post by mihit on May 04, 2021, 08:39:03 AM »
And in case the cylinder is glazed from too much lazy running, a method I came across the other day was to pick up a garden sprayer full of water, and once it's up to temp and idling, start spraying a mist into the intake, basically until it bogs, then back it off some.
This is the method behind water/meth injection.
It should start throwing out a whole lot of garbage, you just have to keep spraying until the exhaust is clear.
Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« Last post by mihit on May 04, 2021, 08:34:51 AM »
Everyone else has already covered all the things that jumped to my mind.

The first thing would be cure that intermittent spark. And also remember you want a GOOD spark. If it's weak outside the cylinder it could be 5/8ths of nothing when it's under compression.

There were plans floating around the internet for a magneto "recharger".
Ideally you could find a known good spare to test if it is in fact that, but also gap and points as mentioned.

Engines only need a few things to run: Air, fuel, compression, and spark (at the right time)
Listeroid Engines / Re: Need help with Injector Pump (Minimum Engine Speed)
« Last post by veggie on May 03, 2021, 06:48:55 PM »
Thank you 38ac,
It looks like the only thing I can alter in that list is the pop pressure.
I can loosen the injector spring tension screw by 1/4 turn at a time to see if that makes any difference.

38ac: "Cam timing and lobe placement is such that the adjustment  bolt must be set extremely high thus the element isn't dropping low enough at low delivery."

Is this something I can adjust/control ? If so, how does one set this?
Listeroid Engines / Re: Need help with Injector Pump (Minimum Engine Speed)
« Last post by 38ac on May 03, 2021, 06:02:39 PM »
As seen on the other video you should be able to bring it down much slower than what you are able to achieve. I have not seen that issue previously so all I can offer is guesses.
Helix cut wrong in pump element
Cam timing and lobe placement is such that the adjustment  bolt must be set extremely high thus the element isnt dropping low enough at low delivery.

And grasping at straws
Worn element is bypassing fuel at low deliveries
Injector pop off set too high to pop at low delivery
Injector pintle is stuck partially open or not seating a dibbling.

Listeroid Engines / Need help with Injector Pump (Minimum Engine Speed)
« Last post by veggie on May 03, 2021, 05:03:49 PM »
Hi All,

Is anyone familiar with the internals of the Injector Pump and whether modifications can be made to the minimum flow point?

I have a project where I would like the engine to run continuous at 250 rpm.
The problem is that when the speed is set any lower than 325 rpm, it cuts out !!!
The governor linkage is quite free and I have tried several springs ranging from stiff to very soft.
Even using my hand on the rack plunger I can control the speed closely down to 325 rpm and the engine stops at any point below that.

I prepared a video to demonstrate.
You will note that as the engine speed hits the current setting (325 rpm) it cuts out, then as it slows below the set point the governor gives a small tug and the engine fires with a thump to bring it back to 325. Then the injector pump stops fuel flow and the same cycle repeats. You will hear a thump every several revolutions as the engine fires and then cuts out to coast again.

I have seen many engines running at very low speeds. So I know it's possible.
Such as this one...

Any ideas for modifications ???
Generators / Re: Capacitor calculation for DIY stand alone genset
« Last post by CS6_owner on May 03, 2021, 04:26:17 PM »
You have a motor with 400V coils.

This means that in delta, grid voltage needs to be 400 volts. This is the "normal" grid voltage in a modern factory.

If you have a 690V grid, you would need to configure the motor in star (is not used).

This is a normal configuration for "new" motors. You can thus use a star/delta configuration to limit the startup currents on a 400V grid.

Asynchronos motor are ideal to use as generator while grid connected. Sadly, this is illegal (for safety reason) in most parts of the world.

It could be used not grid connected (delta configuration), if you have a constant load (in star configuration with 230V loads), like an electrical heater. This electrical heater could be a star configuration of eg 3 1 kW heaters.

Using this motor as generator, you NEED a balanced load across the 3 coils. The way an unbalance would be solved is here not available (the neuter line in the center of the star is used to solve the unbalanced loads). If you would use the motor as generator with a not balanced load (eg 1Kw, 2kW and 3 Kw heater) not grid connected, you would get eg 180V on 1 heater (not a big problem) 260V on another and maybe 290 V on the third (big problem).

If you would have 3 400V heaters, then you could put both generator and load in star configuration. You could then connect both centers of the star with a neuter line, and thus use an unbalanced load. This would give other problems, mainly overheating of the coil that has the largest load and cogging. Not advised, and also not so easy to get 400V monofase heaters.

Using an asynchrone motor as a grid tied generator, you don't need the capacitors. The grid supplies the needed reactive power. And the load is almost always balanced.
Using it standalone, you do need the capacitors. And when you change the load, you need to change the value of the capactor or the voltage and frequency would drift.

Some reading:,will%20deliver%20power%20in%20sync.

PS: Do this on your own risk. I'm not responsable if you get killed...

Generators / Re: Capacitor calculation for DIY stand alone genset
« Last post by oldgoat on May 03, 2021, 03:06:20 PM »
In your proposed setup the armature is made up of a ring of copper bars that are a short circuit. The stator ( the outside windings ) induce a current in these bars (by transformer action and set up a magnetic field in the bars which tries to keep up with the 50 c/s current in the stator. In your setup there only adjustment for load is to change the value of the external capacitor.                                                          In a proper generator the rotor has DC fed to the windings and provides a rotating field. Adjust the current flowing through this and you can control the voltage of the generator usually the voltage is fixed by the regulator and it adjusts the current to keep the voltage constant.    Delta means that the full line voltage ( nominally 415v ) is measured across each winding the The windings are shown as a triangle. The other connection method is Star these connections are shown with the 3 windings going to a common centre connection the voltage between the winding and the centre point is 240v. Google star and delta windings and you will see what I mean.  It is a bit more complicated than what I have described by that is a good starting point
Things I want to Buy / Re: Cam gear CS 6
« Last post by Owenga on May 02, 2021, 07:59:51 PM »
Hi Mike..
Yes Iím keen on the gear or complete cam... It would be easy to send it here Iím on Chatham island , let me know a price including freight to Auckland and we can do a deal..
My email... Sladen,

Thanks Daryl....
Generators / Re: Capacitor calculation for DIY stand alone genset
« Last post by Chris_DK on May 02, 2021, 06:25:29 PM »
If I am reading that motor tag right the voltage is 400 or 690 volts and what phase ???

Correct me if I am wrong - my electrical knowledge is just above the zero mark and I obviously need to learn more ;-).
I understand the  motor tag this way:
~3 means three phase
delta 400 means three phase 400V
wye 690 means 230V between phases
Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10