I too look forward to what needs to be done and how you approach and solve the prolems.

I added a generous amount of silver solder around the bung to strengthen that area. A coat of paint, and it's looking much better. It runs well and starts up easily now, I think the lucas treatment and ATF I put in the fuel helped a lot. Took the ST head partly apart and ordered new bearings and brushes as the bearings are growly and the brushes are stuck in their holders. I'll probably have to bash them out.

A short video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOgIELxKVUo

 

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Hi Bruce, there are now 4 Banfords here for rebuild. Unlike a Lister there are close to zero parts. I have had several items reproduced and make others as needed thus it takes a while to get through one. We will post sone pics and this time will use the site photo host so they don't disappear like last time.

Pulled off the flywheel, injector pump, back cam cover and removed cam. I was counting teeth and looking at cam lobe angle percentages, it was ridiculous (and still binding at different points). I knew I was making this to complicated. So, I took the cam back out, I also took out the injector, but left the diamond shaped injector bracket in place as a guide/measure. I dropped a 1/8” piece of nylon rod about 14 inches long down the injector hole to rest and ride on the piston, so I was able to get a real good TDC reading. I thought about how the valve order in the combustion cycle should go. I needed the intake valve to open first, so I installed the cam in the flattest position under the tappets, just before starting to move the intake valve. That position was the intake cam lobe facing 9 o’clock. I then put the covers and injector pump and pushrods back in place and proceeded to slowly turn over the engine. To my amazement, it would actually turn over without binding – however, I could feel in my senses, through my hands, that it was close, but not perfect. Then my brain automatically went back to Butch’s timing video where he shows us that the crankshaft one tooth off in either direction isn’t going to work, and it’s obvious. Took it apart, put the crank at TDC, took a sharpie and marked the position of the idler gear and cam gear – knowing that I was probably just one tooth off in either direction as Butch laid out. My first 1 tooth change forward made the engine bind up, but after moving my cam gear 2 positions back (because I’d already moved my mark, 1 forward), we are back in action !