Might be gone., He had a hissy fit before he left and was deleting a lot of his postings.
Pretty childish if you ask me but anyway.

Just curious, but are you able to expand on that a bit? I missed it all, and it flabbergasts me that all that good info has been retracted. I missed the donnybrook I guess?

Sounds like a well thought out system with the arduinos.

I have no explanation for the erosion. I have seen very light pitting on the tops of pistons but never anything I'd call erosion around the top ring land . You said when the carbon is cleaned off. Maybe it's the coking that's causing some friction in that area and wearing the piston?
Carbon can be hard, abrasive stuff when it gets well baked on.  WI should help with this by removing the carbon and keeping that area build-up free.

I have used a 10" water filter for.... ever pretty much for my main filtering as well.  If you can get s string wound filter they last longer than a Poly filter. Don't know why but they have proven that time and time again.
I don't know what  jcloth is but I presume some sort of cleaning cloth? Microfibre?

In the early days I used to use those recycled, re useable shopping bags for a pre filter. would hang them over a drum with a bung in it and put the oil through.  I usualy did the first passes on a new bag several times because once they get a layer of fat and fine sediment they filter a lot finer.  They certainly slow down but if you put in 20L or so which was what they tend to hold, it's a fair output. Of course they run a lot faster in summer than winter but once you had that initial layer, the output was incredibly clean and the 10"  would last at very least 2500L at which point I'd get nervous it might have blown a hole or be bypassing and change it.  Still damn cheap fuel.

I used to get oil in IBC's from cruise ships when they came into re stock.  that was beautiful oil as well. Best I ever got in fact.  Having it  put in your trailer in 1000L lots was just such a luxury and I got it for free. Matter of fact, I'd pick one up and they would ask me if I was coming back today or tomorrow to get the other one?  Some times I'd be at capacity ( had 4000L in stock) so I'd take it to a mates place who made Bio diesel.  He'd ring me when he got home from work and say " I see I got a visit from the oil Fairy today. Thanks very much for that".
The oil fairy thing stuck a bit as I was always giving oil away to other people so was known for granting peoples oily wishes.

The water delivery rate you are planning sounds good. Probably does not matter in the end but on the automated dosing systems I have used, I prefer to run say 10 sec every Minute rather than long times on and longer off.  I prefer even delivery as possible in stationary use.
Maybe 20 sec on and 2 min off would be better/ Easy to set up whatever you want on the arduino.

Regarding your fuel pump, I'm not sure how the Cs pump handles pressure. Only ever gravity fed Mine.  Others may know better but I would suggest doing a no pressure system.  T a return line back to the tank at the injector pump. This way you will have fuel pushed right to the IP but it will have no pressure as it will be able to escape back up the return line. 

How will the Veg feed from the IBC? Will the tank be remote on a higher level?
Given you are using an IBC, I wouldn't be taking the fuel from the bottom of the tank, I'd be using a floating pickup in the top.  Bit of wood to fit through the big cap in the top, put a fitting in the lid, 1.3 Meters of soft fuel line going to another fitting or bit of copper pipe sticking through the wood and 50 MM underneath and you are there. 

ALWAYS better to pick up from the top as everything you don't want goes to the bottom in oil and all the good stuff is on the top.  Filtered and dried or not.
If you have to feed from the bottom, I would at least kick the tank back from the pickup side to form bit of a sump for anything to drop out  to go away from the pickup.

Keep us updated on your progress.

I've been running lister cs engines for 19 years now the first couple of years only on red diesel.  Then I found out about running them on vegoil and started using that.  At the time it was cheaper than red so I ran on new vegoil from tesco's.  Then for some unbeknown reason the price rocketed up to more than red diesel price.  Thats when I started collecting WVO from various sources.  This was not clean and what I did was leave it to stand for at least a month then decant the runny stuff off the top.  I have never dried the oil just used the runny stuff as is the only filtering was a jcloth wrapped round a 5 micron filter in the water filter assembly and the filter close to the engine.  The jcloth works great catches all the sediment before it gets to the 5 micron polypropylene water filter.  When it blocks I just change the jcloth and use the old one to start the fire.  However I now get my oil from just one supplier a firm that make crisps It is lovely and clean no whites.  I get it in an IBC 1000 litres at a time for £200 which is better than the 30p per litre I was paying before for dirty oil and  a lot easier to collect, they load it into my trailer with a forklift.  I will test this oil for water content.

It is not the piston ring thats corroded its the piston itself the area above the top ring. When the carbon is cleaned off the side of the piston above the top ring quite a lot of aluminium is missing scored doesn't happen when running on red.

My reason for using the Arduino is to have a wireless controlled start and stop. I suffer from COPD and have only 24% lung capacity and the generator is about 100ft away and its just to far to walk to switch it on or off I am virtually housebound.  Even though its a startomatic I dont like that function and have dispensed with it.  The plan is to have a wireless camera in the genny shed check there's nobody there and start it with a press of the button in my cabin.  Using the Arduino as an engine starter has some advantages.  First I can spin the engine over decompressed for a few seconds then drop the decompressor for a less stress start.  Second monitor the voltage and switch on the output contactor when the voltage reaches say 200 volts.  Also when switching off switch the output contactor off before actually switching off the engine.  Its not a good idea to have loads connected when the engine runs down.  Also got a current sensor as well as the voltage and water temperature sensor.  All these details can be transmitted back to the handset and be displayed on screen.  I should point out that my son is the one who knows how to program and build the Arduino.  Not me I just do the mechanicals.

I am in the process of setting up a pair of generators that way I can run one until it needs its oil changed.  Then swap over to the other generator until that needs an oil change.  This will give me an instant back up if either one fails.  Ive been on a hunt for years to get 2 good 8/1 engined Startomatics and now have a nice pair.  The second one has a 1981 engine that appears to be in good condition.  Just the gen head needs some attention new anti vibration rubbers new brushes and top box rewiring to push button start.

Regarding the water injection my pump delivers 6.5 litres per hour this equates to 108ml per minute I've calculated that the genny on full load will use 2.25 litres fuel per hour.  So if I run the pump for 2 minutes on and 8 minutes off this will give me 1.296 litres per hour.

I think I am going to do the twin tank system on one of the gennys because I have all the bits to do it and its been a long ongoing plan which is nearly there.  I think I can achieve quite a quick changeover see enclosed picture of system I intend to use.

Yes, the official Lister design using an underground concrete chamber is very effective.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2682AwYJ7w

Thanks guys. I was a bit mystified when my search brought up a bunch of blank or deleted postings. In any case, I'm sorry to hear he left the forum. He was a good member with a lot to contribute, but his reasons are his and his alone.......and I will respect that.

Thank you for the links mike90045. The "M" series engines built by IHC were all of very high quality, so an imbalance is kind of surprising....almost HAS to be a mismatch problem. The links you provided will definitely get me off to a good start!