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Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CE endplay adjustment
« Last post by Mtour on Today at 10:27:05 AM »
 Thanks for all the replies..

 I had to wet sand the sides of the rod bearing quite a bit to get them to fit the the crank, wet sanded them on glass until they would just move freely. Checked the rod bearings with platsicgauge, also tried to spin the crank with the rod bearings loosened to see if the crank would spin easier.

 I have to try to get some endplay on the crankshaft, there is zero endplay on the engine now using a pry bar..
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CE endplay adjustment
« Last post by mobile_bob on Today at 01:32:08 AM »
seems to me that the engine has to have some provision for thrust on the crankshaft, so that you could maintain end play to some spec called for

Mike makes a good point with checking the con rod for play, it should have some end play, where you can moved it back and forth on the crank journal, easy enough to check while you have the side cover off the engine.

anyone got a drawing of the innards of this engine model?

bob g
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CE endplay adjustment
« Last post by Mtour on Today at 01:18:27 AM »
 The engine has 30 minutes of run time since complete reassembly,  I am going to check to see if the crank is pinched between the cam gear, i can't remember if the crank had a seat to stop the cam gear from being driven on too far.


Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CE endplay adjustment
« Last post by mike90045 on Today at 12:13:06 AM »
With recording tape, it's called "stiction".    In an engine, I'd look for oil that turned to grease.  Odd, because once you got it moving, should be able to set an hour and still be free.  Can you feel any play in the connecting rod ( upper or lower ) ?

something in the piston area seems to be the only large enough surface contact to "stick". 

Maybe Felts on the bearings ?

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CE endplay adjustment
« Last post by Mtour on August 02, 2021, 10:15:48 PM »

 I checked the end play and there is zero end play, my thinking now is that when I reinstalled the cam gear on the drive shaft it must have been driven on too tight. This would cause the the binding even with the end housings being backed off a mm. The cam gear had to be heated with map gas to get it off and to reinstall.

 This would have to be it, as the only other way to adjust the endplay would be to shim the non cam side end housing. There are no drive shaft shims on this engine just the collar of the main bearings.

 I reassembled the engine last November, had taken pictures of the whole process but unfortunately they were lost when my phone quite working. So going off memory of the reassembly process..

Lister Based Generators / Rewind of Brush 6KW alternator armature
« Last post by LDM on August 02, 2021, 05:59:36 PM »
Having worked as a genset tester at the Cinderford works of R A Lister during the first five months of 1969, I recently bought an SR2  6kW Startomatic produced in that year which I may have just worked on in the factory. (From 1971 to 1980 I worked in the Overseas Operations Division of RAL, including setting up and running Lister Diesels Malaysia, where some 10,000 engines were assembled from CKD).
It was bought unseen during the lockdown, and turned out to be incredibly filthy as a result of over-fueling - instead of SR injection pumps, ST had been fitted, which caused No.1 inlet valve to become badly worn/burnt. Fuel rich exhaust shuttled back and forth through the inlet manifold and the oil bath air cleaner to No.2 cylinder, and with no crankcase depression, oils leaked everywhere.
Cleaned up and with new valves and seats, de-glazed bores, a set of piston rings and big ends, and serviced fuel equipment, the engine runs very nicely. After cleaning and some rewiring, all of the Startomatic functions operate correctly, except that the decompressor does not actuate on account of insufficient AC voltage output (only 30 volts) from the Brush alternator.
Tests proved that there was a major short on the AC windings of the armature. Estimates from trade professionals for rewinding are in the region of £1,000.

Does any one know of a Brush SCTF 2.25 armature or complete alternator available for sale?. I am in Monmouth, South Wales (UK).
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CE endplay adjustment
« Last post by mobile_bob on August 02, 2021, 05:42:23 PM »
if you pull the head and before you dive in further

check the cylinder bore carefully for any signs of rubbing parallel with the crankshaft

if the rod is bent (not likely, but hey easy to check) there might well be some signs of rubbing a shiny swipe
on the liner or cylinder that is facing one of the other flywheel.

that would make it a bit tight, and if you see a swipe of shiny that looks like it has polished off the crosshatch or working on doing so, it might well be a sign of a bent connecting rod.  its not likely, but check it out, the rod may not be bent but the small end bushing might be cocked  and reamed out of line with the big end.

like i say, not likely, but certainly something to check out.

does you engine use plain main brgs?  i am unfamiliar with your engine, so i have to ask
also can you determine if there is some end play in the crankshaft, easy enough to check out by prying
"to and fro" with a pry just check to see if it has some, how much is unimportant at this point, just make sure there is a bit.

i am sure there are others that will chime in that have vastly more experience than i, maybe they can come up with other things to check while you are on this adventure.

bob g
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: Ea300 based generac generator.
« Last post by hwew on August 02, 2021, 12:33:03 PM »
Been thinking, with the drive pulleys set up to operate the engine at 3000 RPMís the Kubota engine should pull a 3500 watt load.

On my EB300 engine, the rating is 6hp at 2600 RPM. It will put out 2500 watt continuous and 3000 watt intermittent. How long? I donít know. Itís in hours. The surge capability is very good. It just handled over a 50 amp momentarily surge last week. The generator has no problem starting a 1.5kw nail gun compressor with the air tank having 120 psi pressure during startup. The engine handled it easily.

Your EA330 should exceed the EB300 rating with ease. My guess is it should handle a 3000 watt continuous load with a proper cooling system. And a 3500 watt load intermittent for an hour or more at a time.

The EA300 & EA330 Kubota engines put out almost the same hp. and torque. Itís so close that it makes no difference which one a person has.

Over ten years ago while I was talking to a Kubota application engineer and I ask, why Kubota increased the bore on the EA330?  His answer was, to help the engine meet new tier emission standards.

They also got rid of the jet start device that aides startup in extreme cold weather. My guess is when the device is used on startup and once the engine fires up there will be a white cloud lingering in the air until the extra fuel that was injected in the intake is used up. Itís too bad the jet start device was removed because that extra fuel definitely made a difference in cold weather. Especially if you had a dead battery and the glow plug was inoperable. Iíve used the jet start regularly on the EB300 build and the engine usually fired up the first or second try.

In my opinion, the Kubota EA, EB and EL series engines are great little engines.

(Corrected typos)
General Discussion / Re: listerengine.com forum
« Last post by dieselspanner on August 02, 2021, 12:19:57 PM »
Thanks from me too!!

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CE endplay adjustment
« Last post by Mtour on August 02, 2021, 12:15:36 PM »
 thanks for the reply..
 It's prybar stiff cold or hot, no difference. Once it starts to move there is not much resistance. My plan is to take the head off and start from there, I guess just keep dissembling until there is a noticeable change in resistance.

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