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Lister Based Generators / Re: Hello, thank you and Help...
« Last post by Chris Vine on Today at 08:47:12 AM »
Hi Bob,

It is largely thanks to your previous posts that I have got to where I am.

Looking at other sources about compound wound alternators, with the auxiliary field coil in series, it looks as though its resistance is in the order of 0.1 ohm to 0.01 ohm.  No wonder it looked as though it was shorted!!

Will let you know progress...

Thanks again,
Chris.
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Lister Based Generators / Re: Hello, thank you and Help...
« Last post by ajaffa1 on Today at 07:48:37 AM »
Hi Chris, glad to see you have resolved most of the Brush alternator issues. Sadly I now have to work from memory as all my technical data and service manuals where destroyed in a bush fire. I hope that some of my earlier posts were informative.

Bob
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Lister Based Generators / Re: Hello, thank you and Help...
« Last post by Chris Vine on March 20, 2023, 05:58:26 PM »
PS,

After taking the dog for a walk, I think I may have answered my question? maybe?...

I now realise that some/all the output current from the slip rings (rotating winding) goes through the auxiliary field winding and then re-joins the output through the bridge rectifier.
So, the auxiliary field winding is effectively in series with the output and needs to have a very low resistance.

If I have understood this correctly, then the aux field winding is a few turns of thick copper, carrying a high current.
Luckily the silicon rectifier I have ordered, to replace the selenium one, is rated at 100 amps (1600 volts), so should be ok.

Have I got this right, or have I got the wrong end of the stick please?

Pretty certain I will bump into some other problems very soon...
Thanks
Chris.


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Lister Based Generators / Hello, thank you and Help...
« Last post by Chris Vine on March 20, 2023, 04:10:09 PM »
Hi All,

Thank you for the mine of information which resides in this forum!

I have just acquire a Lister generator, ST3 coupled to Brush SCTF 320.
There has been an incident in the past which resulted in a burnt cable (neutral/earth) to the control box on top, However the machine doesn't seem to have done a lot of work.
Cable replaced.

Thanks to the amazing information on this site, I have now nearly worked out all its problems.
I have a replacement silicon bridge rectifier arriving in a couple of days, and can make a heat sink in a few minutes.
Also, have managed to work out which cables are which at the selenium rectifier so that I can connect up the auxiliary field coils the correct way round!

While motoring over on the starter windings, it generates some 80 volts and is sufficient to lock up the decompressor solenoid, so all is looking good so far.
However, I have a question on the auxiliary field winding:  What should its resistance be - even approximately - please?
Measuring, it seems to be very low, almost zero.  Maybe this is correct, maybe it is a problem?

If anyone has a scan of the manual for the SCTF style Brush generator, I would love a copy.  There is one vital page on this forum which has helped a lot, but the rest would be magic.

Thank you in advance!
All best wishes
Chris Vine.
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Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: ST-15 15KW Generator Head w/Spares
« Last post by Zero_G on March 20, 2023, 01:36:05 PM »
SOLD
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Engines / Re: LPWS4 Injector Pump not 'spitting'
« Last post by wheelMA1 on March 19, 2023, 01:46:40 PM »
Yes one or more of your metering pumps are frozen, causing the entire fuel rack to hang up in place. You are probably going to have to take the gear end cover off, to access the rack and pumps enough to liberally cover all surfaces in liquid wrench or similar to get everything moving. If you are able to. You cannot remove the metering pumps until its fully retracted. Good luck.
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Listeroid Engines / Re: How to pull tap bearings off the crankshaft CS20 twin
« Last post by frogmobile on March 19, 2023, 04:56:46 AM »
Bronze repair after machining
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Listeroid Engines / Re: How to pull tap bearings off the crankshaft CS20 twin
« Last post by frogmobile on March 19, 2023, 04:53:55 AM »
If you are in Australia "Old Timer Engines" in Australia. I don't know about the rest of the worls. India or UK your best bet. In desperation you may cast them in PHOSPHOR Bronze using the old ones as model (allow for some shrinkage) I made a repair time ago on my Camshaft gear with bronze and it was still here in percfect nick. One tooth was broken but not on my repair! If you are in Australia and have no workshop try the Men's Shed for machining your cast.
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Listeroid Engines / Re: Parts availability - 10/1
« Last post by 38ac on March 18, 2023, 06:02:20 PM »
It will have to be apart and bore measured as several bore sizes have been seen on egines rated at 10/1 or 20/2.  Most likely 120mm but I have seen 114mm and 127mm.
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Would you mind sharing where you found a new gear? I have a crank with a damaged gear and never could find a new one.
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