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Engines / Re: Timing information
« Last post by sirpedrosa on Today at 09:59:19 AM »
Hi Zvh_greatwhite

You need valve timing or valve clearence?

need also to synchronize Inj. pumps?

Engines / Re: Timing information
« Last post by Zvh_greatwhite on August 05, 2020, 01:47:17 PM »
Sorry for the delay in the picture guys been flat out with other work ,av put it back together so that know parts were lost as the guy wanted to take it and mount it in his boat till a got the information a needed to set up the valve timing
Engines / Re: Inherited Lister engine, advice and id help please
« Last post by Timbre_Surfer on August 05, 2020, 11:26:46 AM »
Thanks all, sorry for the lack of correspondence.
As like everywhere in the world right now, it's been crazy and I haven't touched the Lister for ages.
Hopefully I'll get round to it in the next month...
Keep safe
Alan if you search for Lister CS electric start - here or Google - you will see several vids that are simple & good. They are always an option if you arenít confident with the starting components of your SOM and donít care about keeping it original
Hi Alan,

I don't think it's possible without the 240v wiring, unless you're prepared to sacrifice the "o-matic" bit. The Lister lighting plant puts 24 volts DC onto the mains wiring. When a light is switched on, the small amount of load drawn by the light bulb is sensed by the SoM box, which then goes into it's startup sequence. Once started and outputting 240v, if the lightbulb is switched off the SoM box detects the LACK of load, and shuts the engine down. So... you need at least SOME 240v wiring for the system to work as intended.

If you can live with using a button or switch to start it, then I don't suppose that would be terribly complicated to wire up, and you wouldn't need the 240v circuit at all then.
Lister Based Generators / Re: Lister ST1 Startomatic Generator help needed please
« Last post by Alan Hale on August 05, 2020, 06:24:33 AM »
I need help with my Start o matic   will gladly pay . I live in Euston nr. Thetford    tel   07747102305
Hello , I would like to get me engine to start with my  Staro matic    is this possible  without the 240 v  wiring conected I have replaced most if the wires that were cut off when it wes removed from a shed  The engine runs well but I am to old to swing it  Alan   I would gladly pay for any help  Alan     07747102305   or

I have found them to be Reliable and versatile units.
The DIN rail is handy. One thing I find is a difficulty with a lot of the little Circuit boards is actually mounting/ enclosing them especially when they have screens and buttons.  I scan the things and do a printout which gives me a template for buttons and openings but often Relays sit up pretty proud which means they have to come up above the face of the box in order to reach the buttons. Terminal blocks are often the same way which is a bit stupid as you are exposing often high voltage wires.

These things being all enclosed and on a mounting block for the wiring are a far superiour design. I bought a meter of DIN rail the other week for $6.  Can mount a lot of components on that much.

I was using one of these up until a month back to switch a fan heater in the house. Solar came up, heater kicked in.  You can set them any way for high or low voltage. I only recently saw they work on DC as well which is a Bonus as high Voltage  Anything in DC is hard and expensive to find. Most of the Cheap stuff stops at 100V.
You don't have to use these things to switch anything even though they can, I just get them to Drive a Relay as I have a heap of them in the box and they are like $2.50 ea so if I cook one, I'm hardly concerned.

I put another 6.2 Kw of solar on the other week and did over 80 Kwh yesterday and it was slightly hazy.  I don't need these things for controlling solar any more but I'm sure they will come in handy for some other experimentation down the track.

I might look at modifying one for a direct solar water heater controller. This will have to switch a Capacitor bank pretty rapidly  so I'll take out the mechanical relay and Put in a Mosfet which I can mount externally on a heat sink and just need a low current wire to the gate to switch it.

Quite amazing the components you can get now and what you can do with them.

Glort, thanks !

Oh, and they are DIN rail mount too! Excellent

Hi Gary,

This is the devices I have:,searchweb201602_3_10065_10344_10068_10130_10342_10547_10343_10340_10548_10341_10084_10617_10616_10083_10618_10615_10307_10131_5920011_10132_10133_10313_10059_10534_100031_10103_441_10624_442_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=742fd454-5534-41ac-afd2-006e6b97276e-1&algo_pvid=742fd454-5534-41ac-afd2-006e6b97276e&priceBeautifyAB=1

50-300V Ac or DC.  You can set Hysteresis as well. You'd have to watch the current you switched with them especially with DC as they are not that high rated, only 6A but I am using mine on a PWM controller to limit the AC power anyway so I get a lower heat input for a longer time which allows the thing to work better with the solar as it doesn't pull the voltage down by dropping the whole load.  For higher loads I use the monitor to just Drive a heavier DPDT relay.

I forget your battery bank voltage but there are also other little boards that do up to 60V.  They monitor the battery voltage and then at the preset Voltages turn a relay on and off. They are designed to control mains battery chargers but again the relays will work with ac or DC the latter which one would be far better off switching with DPDT relays on both poles or a MOSFET to eliminate arcing depending on the current.

if this doesn't suit let me know and I'll dig up a link to the other one and if you need a timer or something to check operation.  Few different ways you could monitor the engine to control the start and run signal.  These little boards now make things so easy. You can link them together and do so much. I was learning arduino but by the time you learn it and figure out the code and all that, easier for me to just wire the boards up and so much simpler. May not be quite as elegant but put them in a jiffy box with some switches and meters and who knows what's in there!  :0)
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