Copybell, what did you use for the extension between the head and flange?

Bruce

Gentlemen, My sincere thanks for your sage wisdom and advice.  I'll pull the bearings and check them out carefully.

I was hoping to get a 3KW PM generator from George B soon, he's got 120volt ones now, but I need the 220 volt which is still in the works.

Bruce

Thanks Steve and Quin,
I'll look through my Meto manual and see what the spec is for my head clearance.
Any idea how many mils I should reduce it for my 5600 ft elevation?

The turbo is interesting, but a complex solution since pressurized oil is needed for it.  I think I'd rather keep it simple and add some propane into the intake manifold when the rack hits a certain point if I need more power.  I've attempted to downsize my demands to only 4 hp, so should be OK.

From my '85 Mercedes 300D experience here at 6000 ft, I'd say this elevation is like reducing the starting temperature 18 degrees.  I like the early reports on George B's new glow plug, and I'll probably get one soon.  The fast (faster than me) cranking speed of the air starter is also a big help on a cold morning.

Bruce

My ST 3000 watt head makes a strange grrrr noise when loaded.  It increases with load.  It's loud enough to mask some of the engine mechanical noises.  The unit does not run hot, and the output is good under load.  I did not repack the bearings yet, but they feel smooth.

Any thoughts about the source of this sound?  Could it be the "dog house"?

Bruce

Scott, Thanks for the great source.  Their temperature switches look like just what I need.

Suggestions for an appropriate temperature (over temp shut down) for a switch mounted in the upper coolant pipe just after the thermostat would be appreciated.  I'll be operating the engine at 5600 ft elevation on 50/50 antifreeze and about 5 psi pressure.  I was thinking the 225 degree 1/4" NPT unit would be about right, but maybe that's too high for such low pressure.

Bruce

Scott, Yes, I would put the solenoid release for the governor spring at the fixed end.  This is a good location, vibration wise, and the governor ends up doing the shut down work for you.  You have to design an easy to build trigger release mechanism via door solenoid and share it here!

Other thoughts:  if the shut down is only for overtemp/low oil emergency shut down, just put a slow blow fuse on it.  Then it will turn itself off, no latching turn off relay or timer relay required.  A more crazy thought:  if you use a starter solenoid (high current DC contactor) triggered by your overtemp and/or oil sensor, you could use a "fuseable wire" to hold the spring, and just "blow it" with the starter solenoid; no mechanical solenoid required.  The wire holder could be a screw terminal strip of some sort.

For my application, I am going with a fuel shut off valve right before the IP.  This makes remote/hands off starting easier if down the road my MS should make that neccessary. (No spring trigger to reset.)  For my application the fuel shut off valve does require a timer relay or a 555 timer and power Mosfet circuit to hold fuel off long enough for the engine to coast to a stop, since I need a normally open valve.  I don't want to drain the battery holding the valve open when I'm only pumping air and not running the generator head.

Bruce

Update on two items:
Releasing the governor spring on my 6/1 does a nice fast shutdown, no extra spring required. The governor pushes the rack all the way in immediately and it stays there.  A solenoid release for this spring attachment at the engine block seems like the best spring powered approach- no overpowering of the governor spring needed.

Pinching off the fuel line within a few inches of the injection pump (IP) causes an immediate shut down (fast as above).  It apparently causes immediate cavitaton and no fuel.  Greasel sells a 12VDC fuel line valve (FSV 1 $38.50) which could be used:
http://www.greasel.com/Individual-Components.html

Pinching off the fuel line before the fuel filter doesn't work, the fuel line must be closed just before the IP.

I'll have to sleep on it but a solenoid type valve seems to win the KISS prize, and could do remote starting for me someday if needed.

Steve-
Try a bleed screw on your new banjo- it really works great.  Air comes out- IP starts working nicely without complaint.  On my IP otherwise, the banjo bolt must be loosened or the IP cavitates (the side bleed screw is not effective), but then there is some air that must be pumped out the hard way.
I filed a flat spot on George's brass fitting, drilled and tapped for an 8/32 screw, filed a flat on one side of the threads to allow better bleed air path, and use a small O ring for a gasket( till I can find something better).

Best Wishes,
Bruce