Gerry,
I sure didn't find a 0.25" thick gasket on my Lister. I used silicone coated (George B's trick- works nicely) generic pressed paper gasket material from NAPA.  A place for standards is a great idea.  Include 1 1/4" Taco cast iron circ pump flange as a mate for the breather.  Grainger 4RC79. 

Bruce

I"m not sure I believe that one India manufacturer/assembler has been consistently putting out perfect units for years.  This seems inconsistent with every other importers experience.  Because of freight costs, many Listeroids are bought regionally.  I got a quote of $3500 freight from one NE source.

Go check one out in person.  Look at the rocker arm alignment, rocker wear surfaces, valve stem cap surfaces, and run a finger through the bottom of the crankcase.  Assume the valve tappet faces look worse than the rockers/caps.  While you're in there with a finger in the crankcase, pull off the con rod on the crank (just two bolts)  and take a look at the surfaces of the bearing bushing and crank.

Direct injection I don't like, for sound and problems with WVO/SVO, but Mike says this is not a problem on GM90s because of slow rpm. It is a big departure from the original, and maybe we'll learn more about it's longevity and performance here in time. An aluminum piston I don't like, and I would be slightly worried about getting non-standard Listeroid parts down the road.  Pump for cooling seems unneccessary but convenient. Unless you have over-temp-auto-shutdown, better plumb for convection fow anyway, so why bother with a pump?

Most Listeroids have counterbalanced flywheels, a few seem to have problems there and are "hoppers". My wheels and others have balance drilling marks.  It's good to see a manufacturer addressing this issue seriously though at crank or flywheel is irrelevant, I think.

Ask me in a few years re: splash vs pump.  Pump with a good filter would be nice.

Best Wishes,
Bruce McCreary

gbrecke@vircom.net

Sometimes mail servers burp.

Bruce

Rodger on the crankcase connection, Shipchief.  I may try to shield the upper vent connection from spraying/splashing oil, and maybe I'll get a readable tube sight when running. 

No work on the oil level setup today, had to pull the growling bearings out of the ST generator.  I'm waiting for inspiration to strike, also. 

Bruce

Thanks Doug!
I'm going to print out your note and go have another look.
Bruce

Ray,
I think Jeff Maier's reltatively new oil bath vs paper test is on the Utterpower.com website. 
I think the oil bath stock filter is also slightly quieter. 

Please let me know if you find a foam oversleave for the CarQuest pleated paper filter. 

Best Wishes,
Bruce McCreary
Metro 6/1
Snowflake, AZ

Quinn, thanks, you're right. Forgot about that as I was not thinking about running oil level

Kevin,
The straight through sight would be worthless with the engine running, but maybe if it had an "anti slosh" cap in the inside (opening covered but a small hole top and bottom) it might still work.

3" nylon sight tubes are about $18.  They have a 1/2" NPT fitting top and bottom.  They might do better for running oil level.

A variant of that is something homebuilt like the Murphy L100 oil level switch gauge;  it's a small externally mounted box with glass/lexan face plumbed top and bottom to the sump.  There's has a float with contact in it.  It should work find running or not. 

I've got a neat little polypropylene float/swith unit from Grainger for $13.  I'm thinking about how to best use it, and whether to use a sight plug for visual oil level inspection or make something like the Murphy unit.  The little float switch is so small that that the unit would fit into a 1 1/2" pipe with the float about in the middle of the pipe.  Its only 1/2" in diameter.

Best Wishes,
Bruce