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Messages - BruceM

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Listeroid Engines / Re: Oil Sight Plug
« on: January 13, 2006, 05:54:49 PM »
Quinn, thanks, you're right. Forgot about that as I was not thinking about running oil level

The straight through sight would be worthless with the engine running, but maybe if it had an "anti slosh" cap in the inside (opening covered but a small hole top and bottom) it might still work.

3" nylon sight tubes are about $18.  They have a 1/2" NPT fitting top and bottom.  They might do better for running oil level.

A variant of that is something homebuilt like the Murphy L100 oil level switch gauge;  it's a small externally mounted box with glass/lexan face plumbed top and bottom to the sump.  There's has a float with contact in it.  It should work find running or not. 

I've got a neat little polypropylene float/swith unit from Grainger for $13.  I'm thinking about how to best use it, and whether to use a sight plug for visual oil level inspection or make something like the Murphy unit.  The little float switch is so small that that the unit would fit into a 1 1/2" pipe with the float about in the middle of the pipe.  Its only 1/2" in diameter.

Best Wishes,

Listeroid Engines / Re: Oil Sight Plug
« on: January 13, 2006, 05:17:04 PM »
The oil sights have a reflector so you see a thin layer of oil over a piece of tin. 

Lister Based Generators / Re: Growling ST 3000 Watt generator head
« on: January 13, 2006, 05:10:36 PM »
I pulled the bolts on the bell housing on the non-pulley end of my ST 3KW generator head and looked into the bearing.  The grease is soft, new grease, not Yak lard.

I tried to pull the bell housing/bearing assembly off the shaft with no luck.  I even made a puller plate of 1/4" scrap iron plate, screwing 3 6mm bolts in and using a 3/8" bolt to press on the end of the shaft.

All that accomplished is pulling the heads off the bolts.

How the heck can I get this bugger apart to replace these seemingly fine bearings???

Bruce McCreary
Metro 6/1
Snowflake, AZ

Listeroid Engines / Oil Sight Plug
« on: January 13, 2006, 04:53:21 PM »
I noticed today that oil sight plugs are very cheap.  $7 at Grainger for a 3/4" sight plug.

It seems like that could be a handy way to keep an eye on sump oil level.  Boring and tapping the crankcase shouldn't be too much of a chore.

Any thoghts?


Listeroid Engines / Re: Air Filter
« on: January 13, 2006, 02:54:29 AM »
i'm using the tall Carquest filter George B listed.  It does require modification of the oil bath filter housing. (Grinding around some spot welds.) Seems a reasonable solution. 

A loaded fuel consumption test by Jeff Maier indicated that the oil bath filter did not overly restrict the air flow- no improvement in fuel consumption using a high flow paper filter.  I would trust his data.

Bruce McCreary
Metro 6/1
Snowflake, AZ

Listeroid Engines / Re: Applying Lipstick to a pig...
« on: January 12, 2006, 01:54:20 PM »
What a lovely spot to work on a Lister.  Interesting project in the background!

Wrong brand, but otherwise in Navy I think this would be Cluster FuKing.

Great photo!
Bruce McCreary
Metro 6/1

Listeroid Engines / Re: WVO/SVO preheat via exhaust coil
« on: January 11, 2006, 07:35:36 AM »
Thanks guys for the good ideas.  Even with steel brake line substituted for the easier to fabricate copper,  it looks like a very easy to build preheater.

Mike, your thermostat design with bypass sounds like a beauty.  Do you have a photo you could send me?


Listeroid Engines / WVO/SVO preheat via exhaust coil
« on: January 10, 2006, 10:57:05 PM »
I saw this fue preheat setup on Mr Lister's UK web page, and wondered if this is safe?  It sure is an easy way to preheat fuel- and should kick in much faster than using coolant fluid.


Listeroid Engines / Re: THE ENGINE ROOM
« on: January 10, 2006, 10:26:54 PM »
Russell, That sounds like a great engine room  in the making.  I saw your web site and think that what you're doing (renewable fuels to farmers) is fantastic.  I wish you great success and thank you for sharing your most interesting multi-engine engine room work with us.  Photos, soon, please!

Best Wishes,
Snowflake, AZ

Listeroid Engines / Re: THE ENGINE ROOM
« on: January 10, 2006, 09:27:55 PM »
Yep, lots of nice cast iron radiators in Michigan and Virginia with ebay listings.  Several hundred pounds each, they are always sold "pickup only" since the freight would be prohibitive.

Listeroid Engines / Re: THE ENGINE ROOM
« on: January 10, 2006, 06:28:03 PM »
Scott, my present plan is to mount the truck radiator on the outside of the shed, with no fan, thermosiphon flow.  I also wish to find a nice big cast iron radiator, but they are rare in AZ.

Time will tell if that will be sufficient in the summer.

More photos posted.

Listeroid Engines / Re: THE ENGINE ROOM
« on: January 10, 2006, 05:39:03 PM »
The acoustics of the shipping container would be a project to overcome. I have one on my site now for storage.  If you drop something inside, it's quite audible from a distance.

Here's what I'm up to.  Since I haven't finished and don't have operational experience, I can't tell you which parts I've screwed up, yet!

Block was on allocation here due to cement shortage, so I built my 10'x10' "House of Lister" stick framed.  I "wallpapered" the drywall suface with 1 mil aluminum foil before installing it.  This faces in and the seams are taped with foil tape.  This makes the interior walls nearly fireproof, and non-absorbing of diesel and fumes.

Double walled would be best for sound, but since it's over a hill from my house site I just went with 2x6 framing, R19 wall insulation, R30 ceiling. 

The  slab is 7" thick, 10" under the Lister.  I didn't pour a separate support for the Lister due to the remoteness of the site and the extra concrete delivery fees.  Instead I'm following Jeff Mayer's scheme and mounting my wood mounting beam frame to the slab via 3/4" thick shore A 40 rubber from McMaster.  I scored both sides of the rubber 1/16" with my table saw and will use gorilla glue for mounting.  I'll just postion the engine on it's "sled", jack it up a couple inches, and then slide the glued pads under it. There will be 6 pads, 5x5 1/2".  Four within a few inches of the corners of the Lister base.

I used a metal roof bare over purlins, since shingle roofs don't hold up in our high UV, high wind environment.  I sprayed the underside of the metal with urethane foam to keep it from resonating.  (I didn't isolate the ceiling from the trusses for sound isolation as again I thought this was overkill.)

For engine room cooling I opted for 3 attic louver vents (14x24) backed by furnace filters for dust and sound.  I'll add a sound baffle of accoustic ceiling panels on the inside if needed.  There's no vent on the wall facing the house site (over a hill). The ceiling has two 12" mechanical-temperature controlled dampers that lead to two 12" wind turbines on the roof via insulated flex duct (again to keep sound from resonating the roof) in a surpentine path.  Our summer temperatures can be 100 degrees. We usually have a 40 degree temperature swing each day.  For winter I'll have closing insulated doors over the vents and there's a south facing double paned (privacy glass) window that allows in direct sunlight for some passive heating in the winter when the sun angle is lower.

I don't have pictures from the competed building yet, but now the turbine vents and all trim are on and it's time to move in the Lister so I can work out the fuel, cooling and exhaust plumbing.

I put a few photos on the coppermine site.

Best Wishes,
Snowflake, AZ

Lister Based Generators / Re: Growling ST 3000 Watt generator head
« on: January 08, 2006, 06:38:03 PM »
Thanks Doug.  I have a Grainger account so will check there first after mic'ing the bearings (if they have to be removed).

Listeroid Engines / Re: Fuel filter
« on: January 08, 2006, 04:51:46 PM »
George B ( sells a Mico filter housing and filters (Bosch licensed in India) that I bought to replace my leaky stock Metro unit.  It's well built and doesn't leak.

Best Wishes,

Listeroid Engines / Re: Compression adjustment for 5600 feet elevation?
« on: January 08, 2006, 04:48:19 PM »
Quinn, I believe your memory is right. I've seen the .015 shim (under cylinder) figure somewhere, too.  I found a figure of 0.060" - 0.065" head clearance at Utterpower.  I'll measure mine and then see if George has a suggestion.

Stan, thanks for the link to the original Lister manual!  I'm printing it out now for my Lister binder. It says that if the engine is to be operated between 4000 and 8000 feet elevation, consult your Lister distributor?!

Darren, thanks, those figures are consistent with my previous calculations, so I should be OK.  I derated my 5hp Eaton air compressor by running it at reduced speed and  max pressure, and am making up for it with with a large storage tank.

Thanks guys, for the great info!


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