Great post, Scott E.  Even with a condensor, hopper cooling would  have a lot more oxygen in the cooling fluid.  Now I feel better about setting up my truck radiator as a convection cooling system.   

Bruce M

Thanks Hotater!  That will give me something to think about tonight.  Bruce M

Bruce,

I would try to use an aluminum radiator as aluminum sheds heat better than copper/brass.

Copper/brass is great for drawing heat.

The ultimate would be a aluminum radiator with the inside eltroplated with copper.

Peace&Love , Darren

Uhmm- not really. Copper has a higher thermal conductivity, but the heat radiated off of a painted surface of any metal container filled with water would be the same.  More surface area would be more important that the metal choice, which is cost and corrosion related. 

Does anyone on the forum have experience with hopper cooling???  Inquiring minds...

I liked the tank approach too until I priced the antifreeze, and figured that it would have to be replaced every 2 years or so.  If your tank was freeze protected it would be very appealing.

My present plan A is to use a large truck radiator mounted outside the generator shed, thermosiphon flow with no fan.
I don't know how well this will work.  I'd love to use a cast iron radiator but can't find one in AZ.

I think a single inlet steam radiator could work fine as a condensor for a hopper style cooling system. 

Hopper cooling with enough condenser so that little water was lost seems about the simplest approach- only one pipe going outside the engine room.  An aluminum light pole with a  vent on top would be just about perfect.  (G.B.'s idea but not sure if he intended hopper or thermosipon.)
Imagine some air/steam venting from the top when the Lister(oid) gets warmed up.

I don't know if anyone here has tried hopper cooling.  It is bit counterintuitive and I'm not sure if a thermostat on the Lister head would be OK or not. (I think yes.)  Someone with hopper experience, please educate me.  A hopper with lots of condenser surface above it would solve the problem of huge volume of antifreeze.  You'd only need something reasonable like 4 gallons of fluid, the steam would fill the volume above and condense on the surfaces, running back into the reservoir.

Bruce M

It would be great if we could get Listeroids made in Taiwan, though even there I'm sure a code talker is needed.

Jukebox- all your problems are the common ones.  As long as you have the hard line from the IP to the injector still OK, I'd say good riddance to the rest.  The fittings and filter, even the petcock on my (made in 2002) Metro all leaked badly, and even the IP banjo bolt was defective (hairline crack- weeped fuel and air).  I was very happy with the quality and price of the Utterpower Mico fuel filter unit, and George's banjo fuel fitting makes neat work of connecting to any fuel line fitting.

The concave tappets with very rough surfaces are also standard.  I hand honed the deep scratches out and polished mine (flat) and recut the oil groove in one, but George at Utterpower has replacement ones made in the USA by a good machinist for $40. I'd go that route if I were doing it over... one tappet has a spot where it almost hangs up (but does still rotate).  Check your rocker arm alignment and rocker/cap surfaces, check your valves, definately check head clearance with some lead (little chance of that being right). Every single item in the Utterpower manual.

At least someone made an attempt to line something up (bent bolts)!

Bruce M

Jeff Maier uses 2" silicone tubing from McMaster.com to decouple engine noise from the exhaust.
From a note he sent me:

"For the flexible hose, go to www.mcmaster.com <http://www.mcmaster.com/>
and look for item # 55125K76. It's a 2" fiberglass hose coated with
silicone and good to 500 degrees. It's $9.94 per foot, but you only need
2 or 3 feet. With this, you can solidly mount your entire exhaust system
and keep any rattling, vibration, etc. to a minimum."

I checked at my local muffler shop and there are special flex sections that seem very well built and gas tight.  (About a foot long.)

I also wonder how to best mount the exhaust stack to the side of my engine shed. Let us know what you come up with and how it worked out, please.

Best Wishes,
Bruce M

Chris is right.  You could get plenty of oil flow with an oil catcher scoop high on the breather door, and run it back in at the sump drain plug.  There's a lot of oil following the crank coming out and down at the breather door.

Or look for my earlier post on the internal gravity flow oil filter (Hotater II).  Then you have a use for all your old cotton socks and underwear.

Bruce

Thanks Guy (and Ken) for this manual.  I'm printing it out now and can't wait to study it.
Bruce M