Not all ST - 5 use the same size bearings.

I prefer a 2Z fo rthis aplocation and fill the front lart of the end bell 1/3 full of good grease.

A 2Z will over time pull some of this fresh grease in to lubricate itself and they can last longer  because of it

Thats over simplified.

Efficiency has as much to do with frequency as design and era.....

I could write a book about core densities and air gaps and still not cover all the details.

In this case a 20% increase in speed is probably not an issue and might increase the rating of a SOM 10%.

What about a common point? Are English SOMs built for Eddison 3 wire?

Great Brittish bolts is a fastener suplier that I deal with out of the UK.
He sells mostly DND surplus ( wierd Cadnium plated millitary stuff ect ) with shipping its cheaper than me going to deal with Rastall here in Canada.
As for tools look for a used King Dick spanner set and some sockets. Cheaper to import used stuff from the UK than buy inthe USA.
Taps and Dies, I use Warwick ( again made in the UK ) High quality tools......

My orginal build pictures were stored at PUTFILE.COM
They went tits up a few years ago, but I go to the point where I made my own studs and nuts for 5/16 BSF. I did it because I could.......

Got this PM:

"Doug, Reading your offer to show Veggiefuel some tips/tricks for metal lines.. Care to share them with me too?Thanks"

JIC fittings are like any other compression fitting and steel or copper lines can be fitted to them just as easy as you would any other type of fitting. The trick to working with steel is to heat the line up as you do a flare.

The metal work hardens very easy so start your flare heat the metal and allow it to cool then flair again. The angle of the flare is different so using a standard flare tool will not work ( but might be OK to start a flare ).

I use the fittings themselves I hold the nut in a vice and tap the line the cone to stretch the line is the tapered end of another fitting ground on a grinder so it slides into the nut....
How do I keep the line from crushing?
Find a piece of copper wirte that will fit into the steel line so you can exert some presure in out without crushing it ( works good for shaping steel lines as well ).

You can also silver solder things to the steel line to make for an example an emergency repair.

The thing is you need to play with it to figuere out how to shape and formn the lines and its usualy easier to start by using copper.

You can make just about any line you like this way but you need to tinker and practice.

For a box of doughnuts most hydraulic shops will let you have just about all the scrap fitting you like to practice with and most autoparts places will have different size steel lines to practice on.

Word of warning these home made lines are not rated for high presure injection systems. That does nt mean they would work but you are responsible for your own safety.

So get some lines, fittings and ( JIC, Banjo ect ) and experiement. One side note copper is much easier to wirk with but some feel this is not the best material for fuel lines.

I don't know about that biodiesel thing, but the fittings and hoses they have are cheap and you get all kinds of choices.
You can even improvise and use JIC fitting with flared steel tube ( something I have done ). Or you can use some of their adaptors and convert from BSP to NPT.

YA send me a PM ( buisy right now ) and I'll show you some tricks to make steel lines a hell of a lot cheaper than the Vitron your using.

I saw your fuel line kit, good idea....

Sugestion:
You could probably make up a kit for less money using hoses and fitting at a hydraulic shop.
Japanese engines typicaly use BSP.....

Why not use some Anti freeze?