I cover my thinking about veg oil and diesel engines in my web site,, www.oilcrusher.5u.com under "testing"

Engines with a pre chamber are able to eat allot of poor veg fuel better than one that shoots the fuel into or at the piston. The pre chamber catches most of anything that will damage a DI engine better..

sodbust

Hello everyone!
Been some time since I have dropped by.

This list grabbed my eye, as with my oil crushing setup,, I have had over 600 farm visits from 49 states along with all of Canada in the past 2 years. Being a farmer raises around pto shafts, flat belts, and other high horse power farm hazards ,, having open belts, and crankshaft ends does not rattle me. I have had several visitors that were not danger awake and almost got tangled up in something running!.  So what I do now is have my son in law as my full time visitor safety officer, while I focus on my oil plant tour.  Yes I know, I could make some guards, but after the guests leave I just forget about it all over again.
The reason I m writing is I have a friend that this fall during harvest,, had a pto shaft come apart and almost beat him to death in just seconds.  He is still in the hospital and that has been going on now since the first of Oct 07. Broken arm, shoulder, pelvis, 5 ribs, messed up lung, both legs.  To top it off, just as he was getting better had a heart attack. So,, maybe guards on belts and shafts would be a good idea.. I can tell you now,, getting a jean leg wrapped up in a Lister 28/2 at 1000 rpms would not let go fast enough!

Sodbust

Steve,

I have played some with wood gas.. but since trees are few out here on the high plains of Kansas, I dropped the project.

Yes, a 15% to 20% diesel will trigger off the wood gas mixture.

As for veg oil costs,, where I grow my own and press, its factoring right at $1.05 a gallon.

As for the cost of buying the veg oil and useing it as a fuel additive,, the cost saveings of the additive, pays out almost a 20% saveings over just buying #2 dino..  My banker is useing my sf/blend as a fuel additive in his gas pu.. He says it gaining him right at 3.5 mpg and with the cost of my additive at $7 a gallon, he feels the return on investment of almost 140% over the additive cost..  He just uses about a quart per 20 gallons.

Daniel  sodbust

Hello again,,

I can see that I touched some with my concept, and a few insulted with my wrong wording for the label name for my fuel. I will digest this factor and rethink a name for my bio/fuel/mixture/gas/push -water.

 I have not the access of a engine dino as such , but I came up with the next best item. I can see I need now to add this following data to my web site.

Early in my testing of my fuel, a friend came by one afternoon to see how my project was going. He was on his motor bike, and wanted to take 4 gallons of my mixture out to his irrigation engine. He figured there was about 400 gallons of fuel in the 1000 gallon tank and just wanted to sweeten the fuel with some lube.  He made it out to his well site early the next morning and his fuel delivery man was already there toping off his tank. He added the 4 gallons of my mixture to the tank and the tank was then finished filled. Before the fellow could roll his hose back into the truck,, the well engine picked up 65 rpms.. They both stood there with the mouths hanging open.. Now anyone who understands diesel industrial engines knows that under a fixed load, any increase in power is not only carrying the load but then pushing the governor closed to slow it back to its set speed. Once an irrigation engine is warmed up and the load of the water being lifted 300 feet at 1100 gallons a minute, a engine will stay at it set speed with in 10 rpm or less, for days at a time..  So 4 gallons mixed with 996 gallons of #2 triggered this engine reaction.  So later we used this 855 Cummins engine along with 2 outers, a Case IH 3.9L and a 7130 Magnum tractor running a pto shaft driven well.  All engines were started running a 15 parts #2 and 1 part, my fuel gained from 27% to 33% in fuel savings using the same load and rpms. We are talking data over 20,000 hours running time under load.  All the wells have gallon per minute meters and were all set at the same volume, and engine speeds.  By going to a 30% blend,, no difference in performance.  At 100% sf fuel,  the gains dropped about 10% on all engines.  The reason for this will be covered later. 

Items of notation,, all the engines gained from 10% to 13% turbo boost.  The exhaust temps dropped from 170f to 200f  using the sf fuel.  This is the first real head twister, as turbo gains in pressure is an offset of wasted heat. But the heat was less coming from the manifold to the turbo.. ? So I can only guess its still making pressure when the exhaust valve is opened.

Yes I agree, about the added performance and shorter engine life, but all the gauges are pointing to better  engine life figures, and the engines run smoother..   This is my comparison.. Any one who ever fired a black powder rifle knows what I’m trying to say. A black power gun has a slower burn, and a steady increase in barrel pressure till the bullet leaves the end of the barrel.  I almost makes a sound like a “thump”. Now smokeless powder is fast burning and makes a sharp “crack” when it goes off. In some testing there is almost an implosion factor happing when the bullet just exits the barrel.   You can feel the difference with your shoulder!  I feel what’s going on is this fuel I’m blending burns slower and longer at lower temps.  The sound of a diesel running on my fuel has no ignition ping,, its more of a thud idling.

I have a semi, 11.1L 18 wheeler, with about 20,000 miles with my fuel.  Pulling a 42 ton load, the difference in power is wonderful.  I can now play tag with the bull haulers who are famous for running 500 to 600 hp in their cowboy caddies. It was hard for me to keep up with them in hilly country while empty before..

I understand the numbers about the BTU content of each fuel. It just not there!  Now I am going to try to pass along the data several fuel chemists told me..
They started off explaining to me that for the last 15 years, they started to remove the polymers from the fuel (gas and diesel) to cover the demand for the plastic industry, and chemical company’s.  They said that the polymers were a very important place holder in the element chain of the dino fuel.  They also pointed out the fact that all dino fuel has a very large unbalance of carbon.  “So with the veg oil,, loaded with hydrogen, and oxygen, and polymers,, which all react with the catalyst reaction with the RUG,, making a super fuel”.  The combustion is not totally dependent of the oxygen in the compressed cylinder air, there is oxygen microns laid right along with the carbon, and hydrogen in the fuel..  Overwhelming..

Now for my reply about all the collage testing done from the mid 1970s into the 1980s.. I have read hundreds of them. They get the idea of running veg oil in a diesel engine. The then hit on John Deere and Cummins to have a free test engine.  Fill the tank with SVO, and load it up.. Bingo, 50 hours the engine fails due to stuck piston rings and a torched piston.  The conclusion,, it does not work.  Well they are right. It will not work.  I can tell with in a day if my mixture is too weak, as my engine oil carbons up from clear oil one day to a black slime the next.  That’s what I refer to as a wake up call.
 
Now for the fellows using the 2 tank system and are heating veg oil.. Great!  I can not do that as to many of my engines are computer controlled pumps.. The heat over 200f will toast the wiring inside the pumps.  Been there and done that some $1975.00 later !

Now another item that has happened.  I had a horse trader cowboy from west Okla., call me one night… He was not a farmer, nor had time to press seeds. He had 3 Duramax Chevys pulling horses all over the USA.  He said the  $3.00 fuel was killing his profits. “What can I do he pleaded”.  Well off the top of my head ,, I told him to go to  the store and buy a cheap gallon of cooking oil.. Take it home and mix it with 2 gallons of gas and add that mixture to his 40 gallon pu tank.. Well he called me several days later, wanting to pay me for my help. He said his pu went from 12mpg to 18mpg on his first tank.

Another bit of data..  We started to use a B2 blend years ago from my fuel supplier.  I could see a gain in performance.  Went to a B5 and then to a B20..  With the B20,, I lost power.  Had to shift back a gear with my tractors.  So when I started to get constant results with all my engines, and some 20 other friends testing for me also,, I ran into my fuel man in town one day.. I knew he was running a B50 blend in his fuel delivery truck. I told him to add a few gallons of RUG, and let me know how it ran..  He was almost dancing in the streets. His fuel mileage jumped from 9mpg up to 13mpg. 

And to the ones worried about gas in a diesel,, we have use some gas in our #2 for 3 generations on the farm in the winter. Some 600,000 hours of use over the last 80 years. Not one pump failure other than the one I cooked using heated veg oil.

I hope this clears up some issues.. I can not explain it, other than something magic is happing..  It goes beyond common understanding of BTU content and all that..

Take care,
Daniel,, sodbust.

Hello all,

New here, but not to Lister's.  I have a 28/2,,14/1 and an old GG 6/1 with over 40,000 hours..

The 6/1 is not to bad about hand cranking, but the other 2 are a bear when cold oil and the load of a generator.

What I did was get ahold of a few China, $150 , (Honda) clones.  A 8hp for the 28/1 and a 6hp for the 14/1

I am just using a "b" belt running off a 2.5" engine pulley to  and around the outside of the flywheel of the Lister.  I made some "belt guides" to keep the belt centered on the flywheel.. There is allot of slack in the starting belt,, and I use a little flat faced pulley mounted on a handle that I press against the belt to tighten.. It works like a charm.  Once started I just let the slack back in the belt,, and it just floats on the flywheel with no dragging, or nasty rubbing.

Sodbust