Hello Jimboz,
                 Your Start o matic alternator will have a harmonic regulation system which is quite sensitive to speed variation and increasing it from 1500 to 1800 rpm will send it way, way over voltage.  It is not uncommon to finetune output voltage by small adjustments to rpm where frequency is not critical. My CS 8/1 delivers about 250v at 52Hz  no load and about 220v at 50Hz full load. If I want to maintain 240v at full load I need to tweak the governor to hold 52Hz  at that load. So the voltage/frequency relationship is quite critical.  Unless someone here knows a way to modify the voltage regulation I think you are stuck with a 50 Hz machine. Just my thoughts,  Combustor.

          Have seen a sample of exactly this jelly goo that came out of a Lister ST3. A caretaker had been left in charge of a property and apparently topped up the engine with some other type of oil that was not the type in use at the time. Poor old engine suffered rather badly, but it was not possible to accurately determine what oil was the cause of the problem. So beware, there is a secret combination of oils lurking out there waiting to cause you grief. Best advice is to top up with the type of oil that was used in the original fill. Combustor.

           Use that devils breath as a last resort, and only introduce it to the intake once the motor is turning over freely. Apply just enough to get the motor firing enough to start gaining revs.   Do Not spray it into aircleaners or manifolds while stationary. You may as well  put a grenade in there.  Combustor.

           Hello Mike,
                         I seem to recall that some folk here just made an extended thermostat housing from a short length of suitable pipe wit a pair of flanges welded on
and a machined recess tor the thermostat flange. It just bolts up with a pair of long studs and is easily removable, no head work needed.   Combustor.

Hello Contaucreek,
                            Never had a twin apart, but assume the crank endfloat is set with shims or gaskets behind the main bearing flanges, as it would be with a single. Would hesitate to apply much impact to the flywheel, as  most of it will transfer to the opposite bearing flange in the crankcase, and I am not sure how much it would withstand, as I assume it's a soft babbit metal.
         Not hard to drill out a stuck key if you get a deeper piece of key bored in a lathe to take an extended pilot drill which will give a true hole through the key.  You can then enlarge this to just on the size of the key depth, and it will collapse easily if you can lock the opposite flywheel and apply some rotational force. The Listeroid  key spares seem to be OK replacements.
          Regards,   Combustor.

       Surely your supplier can give you a spec sheet and connection diagram that will tell you what it is capable of.  With 4 brushes it sounds like it could be re-connectable several ways to give full output at 120v , 240v, or 2x 120v circuits, but you will need to see that diagram!  Someone else here may be more familiar with your ST model, and have better knowledge.  Combustor.

Hello Glort,
                 Can't help with the balancing, will leave that to those with the experience.  Thinking about your battery, if it is one of the sealed low maintenance type, it should not emit gas and be hazardous under your conditions. I well remember a brand of battery when these were first produced, that had an internal fault that caused many of them to explode with some rather bad consequences. Appears that the internal connections between cells were just a lead rivet punched through the internal separator and clinched over. A bit of vibration would loosen the connection and starting current would cause a flash in a cell full of hydrogen gas. The result was a very effective bomb.
           May be worth a Google Search for that brand and model to see if others have found the same fault. You may at least get a warranty replacement. I well remember the one that exploded under the hood of my Landcruiser. Thought someone had fired a shotgun by my ear.   Acid and shrapnel all over the engine bay. Lucky I had a bucket and was near a farm dam, so washed it all down before further damage. Another poor guy lost an eye when disconnecting a charger from one of these. Sometimes worth the extra cash for an Optima, they are bulletproof!  Regards,  Combustor.

           Kimberley region,  far North of Western Australia.