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Messages - Combustor

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Listeroid Engines / Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« on: May 13, 2015, 11:18:07 AM »
Hello Gippslander,
                       On my VA engine (Aircooled 8/1) the linkage showed some wear, so I just hooked a light spring between the heads of the split pins on the crank arm and the rack.
The little clevis piece on the rack end needs to slide and rotate freely in the crank arm, but I get a useful improvement in governing response from the simple mod. Spring only needs
 to be quite light, or it will cause binding where the rack clevis slides in the arm.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« on: May 06, 2015, 11:03:48 AM »
  Radiator should be plenty big enough but will need a thermostat in the top line to avoid over cooling. A low power electric fan with thermo switch is an option, but is another item that can fail unless monitored, Believe some have tilted the radiator 45 degrees toward the engine and let air convection do the job. Lots of cooling wisdom here on site if you have reading time to spare.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« on: May 06, 2015, 10:53:08 AM »
           Nothing wrong with a 10"  AA pulley if it will give you the speed you require. At 10" diameter your belt will last forever, and should grip the flywheel OK. The polyvee pulleys for Serp belts are quite critical to machine unless you have a profiled carbide tip and holder, and a lathe with the hp to run it. You will also find the A belts much less critical to align for correct tracking. Saw several threads here in the past about the problems with them.
         Lister ran a 2B pulley on the old 6/1 and 8/1 Start-O-Matics and the belts lived nearly as long as the machines. Good luck with the project.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« on: April 29, 2015, 02:21:08 PM »
           Don't suppose you were sold the myth that these old gals should still be running on single weight non detergent oil?  That was fine when there was nothing better, but a modern multigrade diesel oil will be thinner at low temps and thicker at running temps than the old stuff, and will perform better and keep an engine cleaner. Unless you have tight bearings and/or rings, your engine should spin freely and go over compression without excess effort.
         Check that the exhaust valve is well off the seat when decompressed. As long as you can still depress the exhaust valve a little more at TDC before contacting the piston, you are OK.  Can always put a shim or 2 under the decomp lever if more travel is needed.  If you have had to use wide valve clearances to correct the timing then you may have to doctor the decomp travel to get the required setting.  Have fun re-inventing the Lister CS from your kit of parts. Regards,

Listeroid Engines / Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« on: April 28, 2015, 11:38:39 AM »
          Once you have an air free flow of fuel from the pump bleeder then loosen the pipe nut at the injector a turn or so. Then apply compression lift , look at the pump tappet and find a position where you can rock the flywheel back and forth to give the pump a full stroke. Easier than cranking. When clear fuel spurts from injector nut, tighten and rock again till you hear the injector creak or grunt, and you are good to go.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« on: April 24, 2015, 02:06:37 PM »
         Hi Gippslander,
                            Have been running a similar spring setup on the linkage of my VA (aircooled 8/1) for several years now, and governor control is definitey better, Started with a spring like yours but found it made the yoke pin stiff due to side pressure. A much lighter spring seemed to be OK, as it only has to take up any freeplay. Good luck with the project,

Listeroid Engines / Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« on: April 03, 2015, 03:17:40 PM »
Hi Gippslander,
                   To correct the exhaust valve timing, sounds like time to employ 38ac's method and just widen the tappet clearance till timing is close. If I understand correctly, as the error is similar on opening and closing, tappet adjustment should bring both events into line. Regards,

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister CS 3/1 recommissioning
« on: March 08, 2015, 10:30:19 AM »
Hello Dieselspanner,
                          Your checklist sounds fairly comprehensive. You and "she" should get on well. While you have the crankcase door off, and before filling oil, take a paintbrush and a pint or two of kero (parrafin) and scrub out the bottom of the sump, including the oil suction screen. Many old motors were run in their day on a non detergent oil, and all the gunk was meant to settle in the sump base and be cleaned out each 1000 hours or so, but rarely happened. If you get it reasonably clean you can run a modern multigrade diesel oil and just drain it while hot. Fill oil before closing the door and operate the oil priming lever till you see the oil filling the recesses above the main bearings. Replace the splashguard and check the dipper clears the slot in it OK.
         The Ebay pic shows quite a clean and unmolested machine. In the photo it looks like the pin between the rack and bellcrank is missing. Worth a check. Good luck with the startup, keep us informed of progress. Regards,

             Haven't got the book near at present but I seem to recall the Lister 8/1 and VA (aircooled 8/1) were recommended for a 1000 hour maintenance interval  when such tasks as decoke, check valves, lap if needed, set clearance, check injector spray pattern, wash out crankcase, were listed for attention.
             On the other hand, many old Listers on station bores etc. would have had an oil change annually, and no other attention unless they actually refused to start, Surprisingly, many of these saw up to 40,000 hours with only an injector service and valve grind or two, and maybe a ring set if they were in dust.

Listeroid Engines / Re: Any interest in a build thread?
« on: January 14, 2015, 12:38:33 AM »
            This could be the one we are waiting for. Bravo Butch !!


Listeroid Engines / Re: Flicker flicker
« on: April 08, 2014, 03:27:34 PM »
            Lister's original SOM sets had heavier "electric" flywheels on them, plus an additional flywheel built into the generator pulley, and at least with the Lister generators flicker was never a problem. My 8/1 SOM is rock steady with fluoro or incandescent lamps, though output voltage does vary somewhat in proportion to the total load.
        Not easy to find heavy flywheels, but could be worth trying the extra mass on the alternator pulley. Would not be hard to take a car engine flywheel and machine it to locate and bolt up to the alternator pulley to see if the improvement was worthwhile. Recall someone here doing it in the past but don't recall the final conclusions.
        Regards,  COmbustor.

General Discussion / Re: Deep cycle batterie
« on: March 24, 2014, 01:29:09 PM »
        Hello Honda Lee,
                               A battery which is self discharging quickly is usually assumed to be faulty. But before you discard it, check several things. Be sure that the meter in use is accurate, compare it with a known accurate one, and then try charging the battery to about 13.8 or 14 volts, this is normal for an AGM battery. When disconnected after full charge it should remain above 12 volts for many days if not in use. Others here may have further info on charging AGM deep cycle cells.  Regards,  Combustor.

Generators / Re: generator not making power.
« on: March 19, 2014, 01:40:46 PM »
Hello Bison,
               You probably need an AVR similar to a Stamford SX-460. Your alternator sounds very similar to one of the reconnectable Stamford models.
              Search Ebay for "SX-460 AVR"  There are Chinese clones ex Hong Kong for $70- $80 that seem good , whn compared with the $300+ for the real thing.
              Instal info should be included. You will have to set the jumpers on the board to suit your voltage and frequency. I fitted one to an obsolete alternator recently
              and while I have not run it many hours, it certainly regulates just fine. There are many other variations available for specific models and applications but the SX-460
              is fairly universal.  Others here may have other suggestions but this may be a starting point for you. 
                       If you set the output voltage on the AVR with an accurate meter it will hold output voltage within about 2%, so a voltmeter is not a necessity, but load
              current needs watching, so will need an AC amp meter, one for single phase output or three (one for each phase) if you run 3 phase output.  Good luck,

            Haven't had my 8/1 or VA bottom ends apart to look for felts, but many earlier machines had such felt rings in recesses round the shafts, is it possible that
the parts illustration shows the felt separately, but it actually fits in the housing recess as Jimboz describes. I seem to recall having quite some trouble compressing felt into grooves on other early motors including SR's and ST's, though these could be changed for ordinary seals.   Combustor.

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 8-1 Liner, is it chromed?
« on: January 27, 2014, 02:19:38 PM »
          My understanding of the CS series is that earlier engines, 3/1,  5/1,  6/1  ran around 500 to 650rpm and had cast iron pistons running in chromed bores for reduced wear. The 8/1 and VA ran at 850rpm  and had alloy pistons running in cast iron bores. Bore and stroke remained the same and the extra HP was gained from the extra RPM.
Flywheel designs were modified to be safe at the higher speed.
         Do not recall 8/1's and VA's having replaceable liners, but dry sleeving when rebuilding was probably an option.  Think wet liners were probably a Rajkot invention.
Someone may be able to confirm this. Must dig out my copy of David Edgington's  "The Lister CS story".  Regards,   Combustor.

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