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Messages - tiger

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31
Engines / Re: DB stanadyne injector pump on a 3 cylinder engine problems
« on: December 16, 2014, 02:53:26 AM »
It is under the student handbook thread.

32
Engines / Re: DB stanadyne injector pump on a 3 cylinder engine problems
« on: December 16, 2014, 02:46:48 AM »
check dieselplace.com under 6.5 diesel, they posted yesterday a link to the db 2 manual in a pdf format around 50 pages that may apply to your need.

33
Lister Based Generators / Re: some advise please
« on: September 19, 2014, 02:39:33 AM »
bschwartz: my wife just turns things on, so missed balance is the norm.

34
Lister Based Generators / Re: some advise please
« on: September 18, 2014, 04:42:38 AM »
A load balance transformer is not a auto transformer exactly, the primary is, in that it is designed to accept many input voltages 120 to 480 volts typical. the secondary winding is designed to produce 120/ 240 with a center tapped neutral. So one takes the 240 volt taps from the generator head , float its neutral and hooks up the secondary center tapped neutral to the load, and the secondary 240 volt legs. the medical xray industry has used these for years, new techniques have made them obsolete . typically they produce 5 kw continuously and 8 kw momentary. I have 2 . check your local docs, hospitals ect. they are selling them for scrap now.

35
Listeroid Engines / Re: Exhaust System Thread Sealant
« on: August 16, 2014, 01:37:23 AM »
sodium silicate other wise known as muffler patch. mix with water to form a paste and apply. used for ever on steam lines ect.

36
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Startomatic Generator Rewind
« on: January 29, 2014, 12:57:25 AM »
Jimboz: I think at this point I would be amiss if I did not have you read up on armature testing using a growler. they can be homemade if you can't find one locally. do a internet search with "growler armature tester" on the search line. good luck.

37
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Startomatic Generator Rewind
« on: January 27, 2014, 01:59:54 AM »
you are correct in the hookup, one end of each coil to remain  not connected! we are trying to measure leakage current. Listeroils print shows both ac and dc tied to ground probably at frame at some point, make sure that is disconnected before test. start with meter at amps then go down to milli then- micro amps. as for test voltage work up to twice operating voltage,IE starter/ gen at 24volts test at 48 volts starting with meter at amps at each level. the test lamps will limit current if things go south, of course if they light at all there is a problem.If anything goes haywire shut down and dryout the winding  some more, then try again at lowest voltage level. Your pics are encouraging, a good eyeball on the visible windings can really help.

38
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Startomatic Generator Rewind
« on: January 24, 2014, 04:42:43 AM »
JIMBOZ: YOU can use either ac or dc on both stator and rotor keep the voltage low and work up to the windings normal working voltage by variac(AC)  or removing the lightbulbs as required,monitor the series connection with meter for current, there should be none when clean and dry to frame and low ohms thru  the windings themselves. The cleaner of choice for windings before the 70's was carbontetrachloride, next came trichlorethlyne both EPA no no's now. I would try CRC brake cleaner on a exposed small area and check that the insulating varnish does not desolve. some rewind shops will clean and reinsulate windings, but the results are questionable. In my case done after a salt water dunking the gen burned up after a year with low usage over that time. Good luck, the pics look pretty good!

39
Things I want to Buy / Re: OK! A Band Saw Is Not A Lister But,
« on: January 23, 2014, 03:05:38 AM »
the motor mount stud looks pretty sick. my eyes are not good enough to detect the pully problem though, but it looks like it is intact enough to be bushed or sleeved.

40
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Startomatic Generator Rewind
« on: January 23, 2014, 02:45:56 AM »
sounds good next I would either bake out or vacuum out any moisture. then apply a AC voltage thru a variac or light bulbs in series with a ampmeter, or any multimeter will do to each winding to  the housing. no current should be present. bake at 150 f for an hour or more first. more is better, you might have to send your wife out of town first! If you have a container big enough to seal and draw a vacuum and can pull 23 inches  for 24hrs that is best. one can apply a low voltage thru a transformer to heat up the individual coils to dry out the moisture. a lot of gen heads have this feature built in.

41
Lister Based Generators / Re: Name that Lister
« on: November 25, 2013, 12:36:28 AM »
Quinn, For the name plate cleanup you might try a product called Goof Off. I just did the name plate for a 50"s lift jack and the plate came out nice. If the EPA has not outlawed it yet I think you will be pleased. use a paper towel dab the goof off on then wipe with dry cheese cloth one layer of paint at a time. Warning the fumes will knock you out! Be sure to do it in a well vented area.
Good luck!

42
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Pant leg
« on: November 13, 2013, 05:38:51 AM »
Is the moral to this thread not to wear pants when working on a Listeroid?

43
General Discussion / Re: parts for small diesel (Hatz)
« on: September 22, 2013, 12:52:53 AM »
you might try Allen Machine Co. phone 800-451-8899 www.allenmachineco.com email sales@ allenmachineco.com they used to sell Hatz I think.They are located in Tn.

44
Generators / Re: How to figure pulley size
« on: August 28, 2013, 01:43:26 AM »
If the pto gear box is retained, you will have to love noise. although my experience was with 540 to 3600 gen heads, I can't believe 540 to 1800 would be that much better.
I spent some time on air crap carriers, and much prefer that to the pto gen noise.

45
double nut the stud bolts and torque those first, maybe even permatex the studs first. then retorque the head nuts. note that the metro torque specs are sometimes different from the original lister. you can double nut the studs and remove them one at a time for the permatex reinsert and torque with out removing the heads. using half size nuts. I think mine were 3/4 by ten thread. Ace hardware had them in the states. note the permatex is for the crankcase ends of the studs only. my metro 12/2 torque spec was 175 ft/lb, higher than most but it works.

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