Hi All
For anyone interested the Prestolite/Leece Neville 110-555JHO alternator can be viewed here:
http://www.prestolite.com/literature/alts/PP1131_110-555.pdf
Shows the J180 mounting specs. Has a nice Output/RPM performance graphed.
These are on eBay used and new all of the time.

MobileBob the performance curve shows the real story, eh? 160 amps at 4000RPM and it will do that all day without overheating. 20,000 hour rated bearings.
I too get asked and try to explain to people why this proven performance will always beat a small frame light weight unit that if you do manage to cram enough PM's in it (or jam enough field current into it like Lestec and Phoenix Gold did) and spin it fast enough to kick out this same wattage you WILL NOW HAVE TO spin it 14-16,000 RPM to suck enough air through it to keep it from melting down. Think of the Noise!
Bearings are only going to last ~ 500 hours! I know, I saw this as a Lestec/Phoenix Gold dealer in the 80's.
It is hard to convince people that nothing beats the hugh hunk of properly formed iron mass for magnetism and thermal heat sinking in a large framed unit. You know this and Doug knows this and a few others.
I think the fascination is with the new must be better. Sex sells. Sells a lot of bright, shiny new made in India 19", 20" and 21" wheels and tires onto PU's and SUV's that Will Not give you better milage, Will Not last as long, are hard to balance, Will cost More to service and replace. Other than pretty their only value is to successfully transfer money from your pocket into the hand of the sellers.
Same with these small framed automotive PM alternator conversions.
BTW I still owe you an old Electrodyne core for your help in the past.
Regards
SteveU.

". . . . never been under a car or under the bonnet (hood) !!"  I'll say! Or done under dash work when you are upside down on your shoulders with your feet propped up in the air on the door frame trying to sort out an electrical problem with one hand.
As an a working flat rate paid auto tech here is what I evolved into:
1) A 2 AAA cell Minimag/Brinkman light with a plastic end cap. Use your teeth and mouth to hold and aim. Bright enough. Pocket clip-able so it was always there. Good battery life, only fair life on the bulbs. Have 2-3 availabe at any time and swap out and relamp later. Even TSA checkable. Only $9.00 - 13.00 USD each.
2) An aim-able head band light with a three AA cell battery pac on the back  with  1 to 3 of the newest Luxiun (sp) LED elements had the best conbo of lighting, durability, weight balance and front compactness. Technology still evolving, with careful selection each newest one was better than the last. The previous model gets put in a seasonal coat pocket or travel bag. Can use hand held or wadded in place as a hands free - my underdash favorite. Also TSA checkable. $15.00 - $35.00 USD.
3) A 3 C cell PLASTIC/Rubber body waterproof standard bulb stick form flash light . Bright enough without being blinding for area work. Light enough and tacky enough to jam up in to  stay in place and still be pocketable. With the standard cool bulb and lighter weight when dropped uaaually saves the bulb and unlike a D cell/metal bodied flashlight does not always smash the spring and contacts damaged. Much more unlikely to ever scratch expensive paint work. Plastic and rubber bodied will not short out a battery or electrical circuit - seen that. Plastic/rubber bodied and water proofed will not ignite gasoline fuel vapors when dropped on concrete.  Now a days in any 3 - 15 man shop there is always an dropped down opened up fuel tank for an in tank fuel pump change or an inline fuel filter change, or fuel injector service going on. I knew two guys burnt, maimed and living with the nick names "Crispy".  One from a dropped popped AC trouble/work light (burnt his shop to the ground too), the other from a dropped wrench. I have stood in a pool of gasoline flames myself from a neighboring techs "oops".
Buy this one cheap. So when the plastic lens etches with carb/injector/brake clean spray, you forget it jummed up in there someware and it rolls out the door and goes by-by you wont feel so $$bad$$. Learned to only spend $5.00 - 15.00 on this one.
Of the probably hundred flashlights bought and tried for auto work all the others;  tied up one hand; took expensive AAAA, cr132, lamp module consumables; were too big, so set aside and not THERE when needed; or too unsafe to be in an area with gasoline vapors.
All my own opinions
SteveU.

No it is I who must apologize for blending my own personal philosophy (in my tag line) with the serious advice that what kills four cycle AIR cooled is oil temperature break down. Gasoline or diesel air cooled 4-stroke -  change the oil often, or use the best temperature resistant oil you can obtain.

Hatz is very good German engine and priced like it.
In post #5 & #6 the earthtool linked people do have both the Italian Lombardi and the Japanese Yanmar diesel engines for these BCS machines. When I talked to them a couple of years ago some of  engines they had were take-offs from people who decided they didn't want a diesel anymore ( think of snow blowers at -20F.), retrofits for people who wanted to upgrade and OEM replacement engines.
They were very friendly and polite and would know about mounting and clutches. They could at least ballpark you on prices.

More serious advice: when you absolutely have to loan any thing 2-stroke, give them your can of premix AND INSIST THEY MUST ONLY USE YOUR SUPPLIED FUEL. Cost me a Stihl weed-eater to a brother-in-law, and a Stihl chain saw to a good neighbor  (his teenage son we figure) to establish that rule. If you ever do get a small diesel I strongly recommend the same rule. just one fill of gasoline and like my 2-strokes it will never ever run the same.
Regards
SteveU.

I am so envious!!
15 months ago I had listed out all of the equipment needs if we were to retain the forty acre stump field and go back into the cow or maybe the goat business. 7 acres was hayable and I layed out the equipment based on the BCS ( with the diesel) to mow, rake and bail to hay that little patch. Fencing costs are what sunk that idea.
When for and retained the 20 acre wood lot instead and bought a mill,  a truck, upgraded two of the chainsaws. We grow trees better in my little rain valley anyhow.

For a US independent supplier of BCS equipment, new and used, parts and accessories (the mower, flay rake, minibaler, ect) look here at this Kentucky company:
http://www.earthtoolsbcs.com/
They sell a line of high quality forged steel hand tools too.

You can now sucker the young folk into helping you with the inducement of having this multi-generational equipment willed to them.

Regards
SteveU.

Congratulations on the move Mike!
Think that's far enough away to be safe from SkyNet on the DAY?
Seriously I am always happy when a fella' can escape any of the LaLa Lands out into the real world with real people where you can make real things happen.
Best regards
SteveU.

My now adult nieces and nephew always like to bring up the time they watched in horror across a canyon as they saw me and a black bear stalking the same deer noises (each other!) through a patch of reprod. fir trees. Fortunately,  I broke off the stalk and crossed the 500 yards of canyon to give them hell for all the jumping up and down arm waving and yelling and then letting a horned deer escape up over the ridge ahead of them selves. But, but, but Uncle Steve!!
I've SEEN just how fast a black bear can get up to speed and move. Since that near miss I most always carry my one handed, short barreled, always goes bang, pull the trigger until you fall down .45 revolver when out in our forests. Legal or not. My bear bell, pepperspray wife approves.
SteveU.

Really neat videos Ade
Can you cross posts these over on Ken Boaks "Putting CS Listers back to work." site too?
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Lister_CSOG
Regards
SteveU.

Matt and NoSpark good points about the ring feed T headed tube. I agree it should bias toward the rod bearing feed.
But again BEWARE: it was bending it over when it broke loose from the horizontal supply tube on me.

Also when I've tried running my total crankcase oil level higher than 3/8" - 8mm up on the dip stick the windage from the big crankshaft mounted counter weights whips the oil so much I then get slobbering.
I intend to add a sheet metal dipstick slotted drip pan ( windage tray) above the surface of the upper crankcase floor  like the  some of the original Listers show pictured sometime in the future.
I agree with xyzer/Dave best for the bearing longevity to go with a plain upper bearing shell using the crank oil ring feed AND his hollow dipstick.
But for KISS trial testing I've now been running Without the oil pump, oil tubes, and just using his hollow dipper, Both grooved bearings shells and the stock drip down the connecting rod top feed holes with a higher crankcase oil level.  This seems to be lubricating fine too.

The oil pump way will lubricate as long as there is ANY oil left in the lower crankcase chamber and does allow some filtering capability ( as long as nothing in the supply chain breaks, leaks out or plugs up).

As KISS as the pumpless splash only route may seem; just  as soon as you lose that less than 1 quart/1 liter of oil level covering the rod dipper, things Are NOT going to be getting lubed anymore. But real GOOD to know this system will keep my engine up and running.

Decisions. Decisions. Eh?

Regards
SteveU.