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Messages - SteveU.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 21
16
Things I want to Buy / Re: cast iron single
« on: October 01, 2009, 06:56:37 PM »
Hello prof.blink
Could you detail this 195:
 IDI or DI?
Radiator or hopper cooled?
Year manufactured/Age/hours on this engine?
Original Importer source?

Are you asking for a cast iron, single cylinder, diesel, AIR COOLED engine trade?

Regards
SteveU.

17
Everything else / Re: Nickel Iron (Edison) Batteries Good? Bad?
« on: September 28, 2009, 03:53:27 PM »
Thanks Stan

Regards
SteveU.

18
Generators / Re: Help me size an alt and battery bank to 4hp petteroid
« on: September 02, 2009, 07:15:35 PM »
Thanks jzeeff for that link to the Delco white paper. Interesting reading. Too bad the excellent writer was unknowlegable about the 70+ % efficient old 50's forged claw pole Leece Neville, 60's Delco 30 & 40 DN's and 70's Electrodyne alternators. Fuel was cheaper than these excellent but expensive to produce units. It was Delco themselves in the 70's that in typical GM fashion fooded the market with their cheap inefficient 25 & 27SI junk to sink these other designs. They only much later came out with the  29 and 31SI's due of loss of market share to the bigger  more effective and durable first Mexican then China produced Motorola/Prestolite/Leece-Neville units.
R. Bosch only much later yet came into the market because Volvo/Daimler asked them to.
Me, I encouraged Nippon Denso in the 80's come and kick some GM butt, but who ever listens to the man out in the field, eh?

Ha! Ha! pbb this must be a bit like trying to decide the choice of a new expensive digital CNC machine tool center versus, versus  miltiple used reconditioned analog separate CNC machines, versus just keeping the old stone simple manual machine that can still do it WITH the right operator, eh?

Now that you have told us a useage and recharging cycle times, since you live in Florida? I would suggest investing in enough Base PV Solar to carry you through your not at home daytime needs coupled through a sophisticated charge controller to balance with your engine generation carrying your evening at home needs and bulk charging a smallish battery bank for night carryover. Going to probably need at least an hour engine generation time in the morning too. It will be a challenge balancing the $$ investment split ups.

Regards
SteveU.


19
Generators / Re: Help me size an alt and battery bank to 4hp petteroid
« on: September 01, 2009, 10:00:59 PM »
jzeff remember he only has a 4 horsepower single cylinder engine he is working with. That is why I very conservatively said 12V 60-80 A = 960 WATTS : pick your own voltage.
I  had rebuilt and tested 40SI and 50DN Delco Remy alternators for years. VERY Rare. VERY Expensive to repair.
With three different five horsepower 400 pound Weidenhoff grid connected driving  motors the highest wattage I could continuously drive alternators was 1920 watts: 160 amps on 12 volt units, 80 amps on 24 volts and 60 amps on marine 32 volt units. I could only rev-up and bounce test these larger Delco's and others.
Mobile Bob calculated a max of 2000 possible generated watts. Reality will probably prove to be somewhere between us.
One has to be realistic with pbb's budget and not blow it all on the alternator end, but with his stated goals now save  budget $$ on batteries,  an inverter and/or a the charge controller side of things too.
No offense intended, Regards
SteveU.

20
Hi Guys
You are only going to be able to drive a 60 amp alternator maximum with your limited hp.
Down sides of the Delco SI? The external fan hurts and can draw blood. Has to be driven at a higher RPM for a given output due to the smaller diameter rotor/stator and a single pull through fan air circulation versus a double fan double doughnut air circulation. Internally regulated IT will decide everything assuming you have a single battery of the type it was manufactured for. You cannot over ride its preset limits so you will never be able to explore the different charging rates and voltage settings you really DO need to learn if you are ever going to maximize a multiple battery bank life and usability.

But on the other hand Doug, those Chyslers have the difficult to change pressed on pulleys. Best decide the right pulley at purchase.

Regards
SteveU.

21
General Discussion / Re: Carburettor thread
« on: August 30, 2009, 10:49:48 PM »
Bob in the past I have used different brands of aluminum wheel cleaners to dissolve out the zinc and aluminum oxides. Do a small part first and watch out for plastics and brass reactions.
Having to choke tells you it is fuel starved.
Float bowl emissions carburetors are easiest richened up by raising the float level.
Diaphram/pumper carbs are my weak area Doug.

Wife has me by the ear -  i'm off

Regards
SteveU.

22
General Discussion / Re: Carburettor thread
« on: August 30, 2009, 09:32:03 PM »
Hello Doug
Old  gasoline carburetor  man Steve here.
The best float bowl fed carburetor information is in a Weber (Italian) carburetor manual. Hayes publishes a good one. This will not cover metering rods which are just variable orifice controlled jet openings. Rochester, some Solex, SU and Carter and Motorcraft manuals will have this info.
Basics are: Float level is Critical and will enrichen everything too the point of flooding or enlean everything to the point of stalling and backfiring.
Check/adjust this first.
Air bleeds are to introduce a metered amount of air into a fuel jet flooded mixing well to create an emulsified mix of air and fuel. Straight liquid fuel doesn't want to change speed and flow as quickly as air flow through changes take place - the lighter weight emulsified mix will have a quicker flow response speed.
A clogged air bleed will cause an enleaned condition - stall/backfire. Enlarged (BAD!) or missing air bleed can cause first a lean flat response followed by an overly rich condition.
On small governed speed engines there will be a richness idle needle adjustment AND a volume speed adjustment at the throttle plate or at a throttle plate air bypass passage screw.
Above the edge of the closed throttle plate will be a separately air/fuel supplied transition slot or series of holes. This allows additional fuel for the transition between idle circuit supplied fuel to main circuit supplied fuel.
This is subject to plugging and is very float level sensitive.
The main fuel circuit through the center fed venturi booster is usually not adjustable (except with air bleed and fuel jet change outs) and due to the larger openings gives the least problems.
Small governed speed air cooled engines I have seen almost never have an accelerator pump circuit, power enrichment circuit, altitude or economy enleanment capabilities.
Problems in order of occurrence are: air leakage at mounting, too low of float due level due to fuel absorption or pin holing of the metal, dirt/gum clogging of the air bleeds, gum/metal corrosion clogging of the fuel metering jets or into the throttle bore openings.
With no manual: carb spray all passaged for being clear. Use the same spray to check for mounting air leakage if it is run-able - should be no speed changes. After inspecting the float SET IT OBVIOUSLY TOO HIGH and try it. Keep working the float level lower until you are satisfied with the overall performance.
The fuel jet/s will be visible toward the bottom of the a casting in the float bowl, or with screw in removable upper air bleeds underneath down in the bottom of a fuel mixing well.

Let me Know
SteveU.
PS: Most anything battery start capable will have a charging circuit. This is usually used to power an electric fuel fuel shut off solenoid in the main/idle fuel well. It is the berries when you run into an solenoid with a sticky pindle, bad grounding circuit, intermittently open coil  - all of these will drive you to drinking!


23
Lister Based Generators / Re: My new engine room!
« on: August 23, 2009, 07:51:08 PM »
Hey back Marcus.
pbb how about a first name pretty please with sugar on top. (can't remember how to spell your tag and all of my acronyms end up sounding like some chemical)

It didn't sound like your Listeriod engine was the problem with it's official sounding EPA Bio-Diesel Only tag. They really, really crawled all over my EPA certified wood stove. I think a good measure why the Chinese ST's are so reasonable is because they are not carrying the certification cost and liability (to the manufacturer) insurance cost loads.
There are certified almost non electronic gen heads available. Mine is adjustable non-electronic transformer regulated and only has 9 externally solder in replaceable diodes and 3 thyristors similar to an ST to make a controllable field flux circuit.

Hope this inspector isn't going to kick up a fuss over your monolithic masonry heater or you are forced like us here in Washington State because it will be wood fueled to put in a non-wood whole house heating system just to meet code and pass inspection.

Regards
SteveU.

24
Lister Based Generators / Re: My new engine room!
« on: August 23, 2009, 03:16:58 PM »
Hello Marcus
I could almost hear a collective mutter in the back ground, "Why would an offgridder bother with building inspectors anyway?"
No permits, no inspections for code compliance then you will never be able to get homeowners and liability insurance folks.
My wife is a licensed Registered Nurse with a private practice in the home health field (helping people to stay in their own homes to age in place and and be able to die in their own beds). Marcus is a MD. People only come to them because they are sick - my wife's clients are All dying. Relatives out of anger and grief often blame and sue the last provider. Or sadly, all too often, pampered adult sons and daughters when they realize Mommy and Daddy's money isn't going to be there anymore reach out for another tit to suckle. Plenty of hungry lawyers trolling for $$ encouraging these people.
It is no fun having to carry millions of dollars in personal liability insurance to protect your family and assets from these kinds of people just to be able to provide care for the sick. Another overlooked aspect of the current health care debate.
Marcus our homeowners carrier of twenty years has just drug us through a knot hole forcing us to dig out all of our home permits, equipment certifications, dog licenses and rabies certificates (no joke) and have to submit to TWO on site detailed inspections - they really objected to THEIR liabilty for ME having chickens. All trying to find a reason to cancel us.
So we cancelled Them first. Went with another carrier. Cost more money of course. With loss of grandfathered automatic renewal. Yeah, we were rate churned rolled over.
It is only because we do have most all the certificates and licenses we were able to maintain insurance coverage

You might end up having to swap out your nice inexpensive ST head for a certified Marathon like Jen's or a Mecc Alte like mine.

Regards
SteveU.

25
Everything else / Re: Nickel Iron (Edison) Batteries Good? Bad?
« on: August 18, 2009, 06:47:00 AM »
Hi RH
No he only knows what he reads and has directly experienced with car batteries. I am experienced with forklift, truck batteries in stationary bank, gel cell marine, and have used many of the antimony, calcium and hybrid auto type lead acid batteries. Can make you dizzy figuring out the various charging rates and optimal float voltages. Smell and especially temperatures are just as important gauges as a voltmeter.
I have seen the Telecom banks on touring. I assumed they were antimony alloyed. Thanks for the info.
SteveU.

26
Generators / Re: mechanical burst generator
« on: August 17, 2009, 04:08:07 PM »
Hello
Before you go an expensive electronic try solution  .  .  .  since you are also considering up sizing the gen head . . . consider tring one of these Pemanet Magnet generator heads.
They are listed at 3.6, 6.5, and 11 kw with a 1 1/2 to 2x surge capability.
http://stores.ebay.com/Georgia-Generator_Permanet-Magnet_W0QQ_fsubZ823419012QQ_sidZ546

Regards
SteveU
Damn. It won't link directly. Scroll to page #3. three units there.

27
Everything else / Re: Nickel Iron (Edison) Batteries Good? Bad?
« on: August 16, 2009, 12:08:26 AM »
Thanks for the input guys.
Doug you explanation about nickel quality is probably as much as a manufacturing quality issue  why this distributor offers a two year failure and six year pro-rate replacement warranty BUT ONLY FOR COMPLETE FAILURE. Not underperformance; which is probably what your acquaintance has run into Mobile Bob.
Anybody else, before I forward a big  NEGATIVE on to my friend?
Thanks
SteveU.

28
Everything else / Re: Nickel Iron (Edison) Batteries Good? Bad?
« on: August 15, 2009, 01:12:39 AM »
AdeV taking abuse and neglect in stride is what these NiFe's are noted for.

Creepy to lock into a one source Chinese supplier. Down load their price and spec sheet and on what would always be a 12 cell and 24 cell FLA 24 and 48 volt banks THEY quote with a variable number of cells to make up the bank voltage.
 Research shows the American Edison Co making these until 1972-76.
Anybody run across any of these?
Supposedly NiFe's  were used to power the electrical systems in the German V-1 and V-2 rockets and are still used in the German mining Industry for there ruggedness and durability. Anybody?
Thanks
SteveU.

29
General Discussion / Re: Government health care
« on: August 14, 2009, 10:01:48 PM »
This whole issue is SPIN, SPIN, by both sides.
It is true - 10% of the people require 90% of the services.
I see this in my family, friends and neighbors.
The simple solutions will always be unpalatable and lobby blocked.
???
Full preventive and wellness care until of age.
Then voluntary risk grouped (lifestyle choices only - all other factors averaged out) privately paid for insurance.
And a national safety net program financed by diverting all of our current "sin" taxes out of general fund diversion directly in treatment programs like they were supposed to go. In fact anything determined to be a negative health factor slap on enough tax to pay for the full social cost of tobacco, alcohol, drug usage, gambling, fast foods, convenience mealing, X style adventuring, etc. Virtually nothing illegal, just very expensive.
In the US we do currently pay a federal "sporting goods tax", model after this.
'Course we know this ain't gonna happen. Too many toes to step on.
In the mean time my wife and I will contiue to pay $7000-9000. a year in private health insurance for our annual wellness check and once every three years. actual needs visit. Damn spiders.
All my own opinions
SteveU.

30
Everything else / Nickel Iron (Edison) Batteries Good? Bad?
« on: August 14, 2009, 09:31:52 PM »
Hi All
I was asked by a friend setting up a home battery bank about Nickel Iron storage batteries versus lead acid. I don't know the NiFe type. I have read my eyes out  - looks too much like NiCad characteristics to me. Would require a constant charging due to the high discharge rate.
They are sold by this company; made in China on supposedly  German equipment.
www.beutilityfree.com/content/index:php
So anyone real world familiar with this battery type? Good? Bad? Pass?
Thanks
SteveU.

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