I got a message telling me this was a banned site  !  Glad my IP decided to let me look now !                                        Leland

I'm confused as to who is asking what question here  ?  It seems obvious that the governer cover needs to come off to see why the governer arm is stuck!  This is Tijean's engine and Tijean worked on it and put the governor together?  But Tijean doesn't know what the governor parts look like?  I feel like some posts are missing here???  If it was my engine I would take the cover off and look inside before I turned the crankshaft!  Just the way I do things  !                         Leland

Welcome aboard Capt'n Barney!  We could go cruising a lot sooner if you'd take Caseys advice!  I myself would try and get it going without a teardown if it was my engine, diesels have sat for years submerged in sea water and started up after a drain and flush  !  I have worked siezed engines loose and got them running and they seemed none the worse for the trauma suffered  !  Good luck and smooth sailing!                        Leland

Since the frequency of the output is a function of the number of poles and the RPM of the generator shaft both legs have to be the same  !  There must be something screwing with the way the Killowatt reads the Hz?  Maybe the sine wave is distorted on that leg for some reason.  I would get an induction motor or two, a 120V and a 220V and try them, hopefully with a way to check their running RPM; plug them in and see how they act, if the Hz is really off that much you should notice the motors acting strange  .  What is that black thing in the middle of the oil fill plug, a level indicator?  Also what is the valve and hose hooked into the intake for, starting fluid?  Looks like a well made engine, is it noisy?  I need the quietest diesel I can get and so far a 6/1 Listeroid is the least noisy diesel engine I have heard so far.  Also I would be curious to know what brand and where the generator was made, and to see how it is excited and if it has brushes or not.  And you might consider just using a battery charger run off the AC if the generator turns out to be OK?  However it has been my experience that battery chargers don't always work quite right when run from generators, I'm not sure why.  I think smallish generators have a little trouble running inductive loads because the inductance of the generator interacts with the load in ways that don't work out so well.  Just my $.02 and worth at least half that  !  Good luck with your toy Dave!                                                     Leland

I had a 7.5KW Metro genset from Sam that had a 12HP Petteroid direct driving a Indian genhead.  I think all the Indian made genheads are series wound generators; all the load current flows through both the stator and rotor!  The diode groups form a full wave rectifier to keep DC flowing through the rotor so that it has constant North and South poles; also the more current you try to pull through the generator the higher the output voltage goes, within some design limits  of course.  These generator heads are center tapped so you can have both 120 and 240, but I think you only get 1/2 the rated output at 120V  !  They can't be rewired to get full output at 120V like a ST genhead as far as I know.  Of course I don't know anything for certain since I haven't seen your unit in person.  The genset I had worked very well, I could load it up very heavy and the output voltage just kept rising and it would start my compressor or swamp cooler even when overloaded but the Petteroid was blowing black smoke and the frequency dropped way down past where the Kill-o-Watt would give a reading.  The weak spot in these style genheads is the diodes, that's why they give you extras with the generator (you did get extras with yours, right?); I was always afraid of blowing a diode when overloading my generator for a test so I only did it a few times for short periods.  The diodes stayed cool to the touch as far as I could tell and they were in the airflow of the cooling fan.  Still I wonder what would happen if a diode was to fail and be a short?  Maybe this type diode never does fail into a short and just pops open?  I didn't want to find out so when a guy needed a generator in a hurry I sold the unit to him; the direct injection Petteroid was way too noisy for me to use in my neighborhood.  The Listeroid 6/1 is the least noisy diesel that I have ever heard so far  !  Leland

My thoughts are that the problem is the tempreture is too low and the cranking speed is too slow!  I would try a fully charged battery right at the engine hooked up with short, thick battery cables (did the unit come with good ones?) so the engine spins as fast as possible coming up on the compression stroke.  I would expect it to start then if all the other factors are the same, it seems like you were just almost right there  !  I have a ChangFa R175A that will start at 70 degrees but at 50 degrees acts just like your Metro.  Once your Metro gets broken in it should start easier.                                   Leland

Hi jedon; I have to agree with NoSpark about bleeding air out of the radiator.  It would be much better if you turn the radiator over so the small clear tube is on top so it can be an overflow and air bleed.  I'd guess you had an air lock that caused the steam problem!  I hope the top hose fitting that looks like it is part of the top tank is not angled like it looks to be?  That would add a little complication to turning the radiator upside down, but you could tilt the radiator to help compensate for the angle.                                                Leland