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Messages - M61hops

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46
Everything else / Re: Gelled lube oil ???
« on: January 11, 2014, 04:51:53 AM »
Back in my dirt bike days it was the rule not to mix petroleum 2 stroke oils with the synthetic ones or you would get jelly clogging up the fuel system.  I've found small amounts of jelly inside 2 stroke motors even though I flushed the fuel system well when changing types of oil.  Perhaps someone combined types of oil when topping up the crankcase?  I haven't heard about this being a problem with sump oils in 4 stroke motors.  But maybe?  I've been adding a small amount of 2 stroke oil into the fuel tank of my 240D Benz to lube the injection pump and I make sure to use petroleum base type just to be safe.  Good luck!                    Leland

47
Listeroid Engines / Re: Flywheel balancing question
« on: December 08, 2013, 07:02:57 AM »
Good balance job Fairmontweve!  Sounds like it's turning 6 to 7 hundred RPM in the video, I wouldn't run it any faster until you can verify speed.  Also sounds like a lot of misfiring!  If you slow it down by about half you should hear a definite rhythm, fire,fire, then coasting churning noises, fire, fire, coasting churning, fire, fire, coasting churning,  ;D etc.  A load on the engine is a must!        Leland

48
Listeroid Engines / Re: Thermostats in a twin
« on: December 08, 2013, 06:28:31 AM »
I'd put 1 with about an 1/8 inch bleed hole at the outlet from the manifold.  Maybe fabricate a housing out a couple of pipe fittings?  Keep it as simple as possible!      Leland

49
Listeroid Engines / Re: Flywheel balancing question
« on: October 18, 2013, 06:42:36 AM »
I would add weight to balance the flywheels if it was mine.  To balance my 6-1 I made weights out of channel steel that straddled the ridge between the spokes.  Held in place with set screws and spray foam to try to avoid causing stress points.          Leland

50
Lister Based Generators / Re: Running Powerline 10/1 at 650RPM
« on: September 21, 2013, 03:46:44 AM »
Hi Listerational!  Before spending money on a pulley you might want to run the engine at different speeds to see if any feel or sound better/smoother than others.  The engine may have been balanced to run at 1000 RPM, or you may have a harmonic with the frame setup at a certain speed, so I'd check with a tachometer just to try and make sure you will be happy at the speed you want.  My 6-1 has a couple of speeds I'd avoid but it was an extreme case.              Leland

51
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: A couple CS's for sale in UT
« on: September 12, 2013, 10:51:27 AM »
I've never seen the generator pulley in person to see if there is enough metal to cut the belt grooves deeper to speed up the generator but in photos it looks like that would work?  You would have to add field resistance to keep the voltage down and you could get a transformer for 120V applications.  A Start-O-Matic would be way cool to have  8) !                              Leland

52
Hi millman56.  Yes, starters that don't have linkage where the solonoid throws the pinion gear into the ring gear have those curved splines.  The inertia of the pinion gear assembly slides it into the ring gear when the armature first starts to rotate.  Both types work best when clean and lightly lubricated, I like to use WD-40 for this.  Both types will sound like they are stripping teeth when the one way clutch for the pinion goes bad, but that noise is usually just the parts in the clutch breaking  :(.  On my Listeroid the weakest starter part was my lower back, no matter how much lubricant (beer) was tried, cranking with the handel is not practical  :'(.              Leland

53
Something I thought was cool when I noticed it is that every starter with an integrated solenoid that I've had apart, the pull winding goes to ground through the motor windings so that the armature rotates as the pinion gear is slid into the ring gear.  This makes for easy gear meshing.  I think you would want to see some rotation as the pinion gear is sliding  :police:.  I fixed a starter problem where the pull winding was open but it had a hold winding that could just barely slide the pinion out and sometimes it would work right, and the next try sounded terrible before it would crank.  ???    Love these icons  :P !                                  Leland

54
Lister Based Generators / Re: Metal lathe
« on: May 12, 2013, 12:01:37 AM »
Hi Bob!  You could leave all three belts on as it is and start the motor with a start capacitor in series with one leg and a momentary contact push button switch!  My back has gotten worn out to where I don't like to bend over unless it is real important so instead of winding a string around the shaft of the 10hp motor I use as a converter, I hooked up a lazy mans starter. ;)  My home made converter draws 20A just idling so I can't help wondering what would happen if I belted a Changfa 175A to the motor shaft and pushed a few amps back into the grid when the converter is idling?  Would I get more starting torque out of my geared head lathe? ::)  There is no clutch so there is a lot of drag when starting in the higher speed gears and I will pop a breaker trying to get things rolling in the top few speeds.    Leland

55
Listeroid Engines / Re: Help with Balancing 6/1
« on: April 21, 2013, 11:07:23 PM »
When I first saw my Metro jumping off the ground, this image of the heavy piston and rod staying at TDC while the rotation of the crank jerked the rest of the machine up towards someplace where the inertia forces averaged out.  The next image in my head was of a saddle and me riding the machine around the yard!  :laugh: That seemed like it would put too much forces on the flywheels and crank and cause failures that could be painfull so I started thinking of how to tame the engine.  I thought the cast in weights were too light and tried adding more to them but it turned out that more weight was needed about 90 degrees ahead of the cast in weights.  ???  I guess that inertia causes a time lag?  Anyway, the weights I added are well on their way down when the crankshaft throw jerks down on the piston and rod.  It was very helpful to have a dial indicator showing me the amount of back and forth while could see and feel the up and down movement.  Taking out the COV plug and spinning the Metro with an electric motor also made it easier to see what different amounts and positions of weights did.  I also tried adding weights to one side or the other and that didn't make any difference so I'm guessing that my flywheels are both about the same.  My engine now runs smooth enough although I can feel the thump of the power stroke several feet away.  I plan someday to expand the frame of the genset so I can fill it with concrete and set it on a rubber mat.  I put a real heavy pulley on the generator to try and get rid of the flicker and that made the belt chirp on the power stroke and didn't completely eliminate the Lister flicker problem.  Then I machined the rear brake drums off a one ton van to take tapered bushings that allowed me to mount them to the 6-1 crank.  Bingo, no more flicker!  Someday I may test the flywheels off the engine to see how close they match, I'm sure my engine would bobble around a bit if it was on a trolley.  The next thing I want to do to it though is rig up an electric starter and maybe a glow plug; my spine is too messed up to allow me to spin the set by hand and I doubt I could get it started on a cold day.                       Leland

56
Listeroid Engines / Re: Help with Balancing 6/1
« on: March 11, 2013, 10:10:17 PM »
My 6-1 Metro would idle fine but as soon as I opened the rack just a little it would start to leap up into the sky!  That is the reason the guy I got it from sold it to me, it was not useable like that!  I took out the change over valve hole plug and belted an old golf cart motor to a flywheel.  With 36 volts the motor is supposed to make 3hp and it was perfect to spin the Metro at 647rpm.  I had the electric motor, Metro, ST gen head and frame on rollers tethered by a lot of bungee cords to 4 55gal barrels of water. I set up a 1" travel dial indicator and it didn't take long to find that about a half pound of weight about 90 degrees ahead of the cast weight on each flywheel was the fix!  It took a lot longer to set everything up than it did to get the balance right.  Using chalk was not doable for me, it just caused confusion.  The amount of added weight and it's location don't seem to need be too precise and it worked wonders!  For my Metro I don't think there would be a better way to have done this!  Just my 3 cents.                 Leland                    (Before you pull your flywheels I would suggest you try adding weight about 90 degrees ahead of the cast weights, might save a lot of work?)

57
Listeroid Engines / Re: Ever done this? Yeah I'm a REAL genius. (NOT)
« on: November 28, 2012, 07:51:11 AM »
Maybe it did seize but un-seized itself as soon as the heat input stopped?  I'd keep an eye on the oil in the crankcase in case the rubber O-ring seals melted or hardened up and allow water into the sump.  I always thought these engines might take something like this OK because of the cast iron piston and thick castings in general.  I hope your luck holds up!                      Leland

58
Listeroid Engines / Re: 18/1 Tear down
« on: August 17, 2012, 12:16:08 AM »
Hi puterboy.  The bake & blast is a good way to get rid of the oil and sand deposits!  When they first came out with this method automotive machinists loved how clean it left most parts.  A Roid crankcase would have some nooks where the shot won't reach but if the operator bakes it long enough the paint and oil will be fried to almost nothing.  Worth a try if not overly expensive?                     Leland

59
Listeroid Engines / Re: 14/1 new project need help.
« on: August 06, 2012, 11:54:54 AM »
Hi selmawp, welcome to our group!  I think shipchiefs' idea is the best solution and it should work just fine.  A little tricky to do but easier than anything else.  Yeah that's a lot of wobble and I'd expect you would have seen some run-out when the engine was running.  If you ever need to get machine work on that flywheel for a starter gear or something you get it bored for a taper bushing then.  I hope it runs true after you shim it.  If I made that flywheel I'd have been very careful to bore the center hole to the exact size and then mounted it on a spud that ran true, then turned the sides and flat O.D. of the rim.  I hope it runs true after you shim it because it may have been a  lose fit on what it was mounted on to turn the rim.  I don't know if a little run out would hurt anything at the speeds these things run as long as you put a spring tensioner on any belt if you run one from the flat of the rim.

60
Everything else / Re: Engine Governor
« on: July 26, 2012, 11:17:42 AM »
I've often thought about trying to get a cruise control actuator, like the electric operated one on mid 90's Fords, to assist the factory governor on Listeroids.  They are driven by electricity and have cable connection to the throttle shaft.  I can't really tell much about just how they are controlled from looking at a wiring diagram, they just show a few wires connecting the actuator to the main computer.  I plan to measure what is going on in the wires with a voltmeter while driving on cruise control at some point but I fear building a control circut is beyond my knowledge of electronics.  I also don't know if this actuator can react fast enough even if it had the correct driver circut but it seems like a good start.  ???        Leland

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