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Messages - M61hops

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Listeroid Engines / Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« on: May 05, 2015, 09:34:12 AM »
Normal people think I'm weird, but who cares.  That being said, the outside of a brake drum looks a lot like a flat belt pulley to me.  Some micro v grooves could be cut into the surface pretty easy in my mind  :P !

Listeroid Engines / Re: Jkson 6/1 rebuild
« on: April 30, 2015, 05:30:01 AM »
If the flywheels don't carry it over the compression TDC you need to spin it faster or add more flywheel mass.  Try lighter oil or invite your weight lifter friends over for a beer?  I added 2 brake drums to my Metro crankshaft to get rid of the flicker issue.  I first tried a heavy pulley on the generator shaft but the belt chirped on the combustion event even though it was as tight as I was willing to make it.  One brake drum seemed to do the trick but I had 2 and I like symmetry.  More flywheel makes starting much easier as well as curing flicker.  I wonder if the Indians scrimped on the amount of cast iron in their flywheels?  I wish I could find a set of SOM flywheels but they just don't exist in California.  There are a lot of 1 ton van and pickups in junk yards at least, and the old ones had heavy brake drums on the front.       Leland

Listeroid Engines / Re: Safety issues
« on: April 27, 2015, 12:47:19 AM »
Guards sound like a good idea to me.  I had a few dizzy spells last week from a new medication.  This has never happenned to me before and has gone away now.  As I get older this type of thing could get worse and guards could turn out to be cheap insurance.  I will probably make some sturdy guards that can be lifted off easily at some point in the future.  My cay seems smart on many levels but he is the one that caused the saying "curiosity killed the cat".  He investigates everything very close up and thoroughly and got trapped inside a swamp cooler last year because he stood on top of the squirrel cage blower and it rolled him down inside.  He was like a hamster on a exercise wheel when he tried to climb back out.  He couldn't run fast enough to get back over the top, maybe because there wasn't enough room for his legs to get a full stroke.  Just luck that I found him and got him out.  I wouldn't have thought of that cooler as a hazard until then  ??? .  It's been stored there for a few years and now I've turned it so the blower opening is against the wall.  Odd things happen sometimes!  I will try to keep him out of the generator shed just to be safer but I don't think you can worry about every potential hazard in life.  Everybody has to decide what level of risk to live with and the universe seemed pretty forgiving--- until Fukashima  :o !

Listeroid Engines / Re: A quick oil bath air cleaner question......
« on: February 27, 2015, 12:52:01 AM »
Hi George.  My Metro has that hole also, I think it's so you don't overfill the cup which could cause oil to get sucked into the engine.  When the engine is running oil gets sucked up into the fiber media inside the air cleaner and wets it so that dirt sticks to the fibers.  When the engine stops the oil flows back into the resevior cup washing the dust off the fibers so it can settle to the bottom of the cup.  Oil bath air cleaners work good except for really dusty conditions where a little dust might make it all the way through into the engine.  The Indian oil bath air cleaners don't have very deep fiber media and if you have real dust problems a large paper or foam element would maybe be better.        Leland

Listeroid Engines / Re: Temp. control
« on: November 22, 2014, 04:41:19 AM »
Hey Mike, if your cooling tank has a threaded bung in the top you could connect it to the bottom of a radiator and the steam could condense in the radiator and drip back into the boiling tank.  Maybe have a drip hose, or better yet a long 3/4" copper pipe on the top fitting of the car radiator to make sure and capture all the steam before it vents to the outside of the space where the generator sits.  The radiator and copper pipe would add a lot of heat to the room.  Just thinking... :P                    Leland

Lister Based Generators / Re: Starters Die Off
« on: October 08, 2014, 10:27:44 PM »
I've had that happen with a rebuilt starter because when the commutator was turned down it didn't get the mica between the segments undercut.  After a little wear on the brushes or copper the brushes couldn't make electrical contact anymore and the starter quit working.  Often details count :P!  Thank god for lifetime warrenties at Kragen Auto!               Leland

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Main bearing removal
« on: August 22, 2014, 10:22:20 PM »
Congratulations!  When I was in high school I had a job doing construction work.  One of the first pieces of advice my boss gave me was when I asked him how do do a little framing job.  He said "the best way to do the job is the way that gets it done".  That advice still helps me get started sometimes  ;D !               Leland

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Lister Wire Sizes
« on: June 14, 2014, 11:26:15 PM »
Hi ristle!  I'm just taking a guess here but how does 37 centimeters long and .9 centimeters diameter (9mm) of the copper?  That would look about like a starter cable to me.  ???  Just a guess!      Leland

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Busy Kansas Shop
« on: June 01, 2014, 11:53:44 PM »
Ah, the good old days when craftsmanship meant starting with good castings that the foundry men probably took pride in making right!  Back then the guys on the shop floor probably were allowed to remelt any castings that they were not pleased with.  Maybe I'm just fantasizing about this, but I don't think so.  I think back then workers took more pride in their work than people do now.  My personal feeling is that older stuff was often better made by people who didn't feel that they were just a cog in a giant soulless machine.  While there is a lot to be said about the efficiency of modern manufacturing the photos of these old Lister's gives me a warm fuzzy feeling!  Or maybe that's the beer and the sunny afternoon ;) ?                Leland

Looks like it has an electric starter set up!  I can't see how the gen head is driven though.  Seems like a good buy for someone close by, I'd be all over that if it was near me.                     Leland

The lathe they used must have been a dandy as the entire cut is cone shaped.

Wow, my Listeroid is a Hemi!  ;D

Everything else / Re: making a centrifuge
« on: February 07, 2014, 03:16:42 PM »
Hi again everybody!  Turns out there was a good thread about centrifuges over on the micro co-gen site!  I'll be keeping my eye out for a torque converter that has the right shape and/or thinking of some way to find out how to safely explode a brake drum.  It's not likely I'd run across a cream separator or factory built centrifuge around where I live and there is not even much scrap metal in my small town.  If anybody knows of a good deal on something in northern California please let me know.  For me it's a one way drive of about 50 miles to a you pull junk yard and 100 miles to a scrap metal yard so the re-purposing of car parts has a certain appeal to me.  When I get something set up I'll post photos but right now I'm still in the scrounge parts stage!      Leland

Everything else / Re: making a centrifuge
« on: January 25, 2014, 01:24:15 PM »
Thanks for the feedback guys.  I haven't been able to find any published info on how fast a brake drum can be safely spun.  2,000G's sounds like a nice round number for cleaning used motor oil though  ;D !  Does anybody know of a valid rule of thumb as to what the minimum G's would be to spin water and the common crap out of WMO?  Buying a new turn key unit is not going to happen unless I hit the Lotto but if I make one out of parts I can scrounge it needs to work well enough to make it worth doing.  Hey Rom what is the diameter of the bowl and how fast does it spin?  What do you run through it and does it do a good job removing water?  I'm hoping I can build something that works well and keep the cost down to a few hundred $ at most.  Thanks again guys!                Leland

Everything else / making a centrifuge
« on: January 22, 2014, 10:05:23 PM »
Hi everybody!  I'm wanting to make a centrifuge for cleaning used oil and I was thinking of using an old cast iron brake drum from a car.  Can anybody tell me how to figure how much G force I'd have spinning a 12 inch brake drum at 3,480 RPM and if the average brake drum can safely be spun that fast?  I'd think a brake drum would take that since they have to withstand the force of the brake shoes pushing on them.  I'd rather not spend the money for an aluminum bowl.  I was going to mount the bowl on the shaft of a 2 pole 60 cycle motor and use an old pressure cooker for the housing.  I thought I could make a top cap for the drum out of either steel or aluminum plate.  I've got the pressure cooker and a couple of brake drums to choose from.  I already have a 1/2 HP motor but I'm not yet sure it's designed to operate in a vertical position.  Does that seem like enough horsepower?  If I need to get another motor I could go bigger.  Or how about belt drive for speed options?  What do you folks think?  Thanks for any ideas!             Leland

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 8-1 Startomatic flywheel repair
« on: January 19, 2014, 11:02:17 AM »
Hi Jimboz, that looks like a good way to go to me  ;) !

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