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Messages - M61hops

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Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister-type fuel filters
« on: October 27, 2007, 11:59:23 AM »
The braided line from the tank to the filter on my Metro looks just like it came from Hone Depot's plumbing dept., it looks like a supply hose for a sink or toilet and it looks like origional equipment.  And that might be why it leaks!  The diesel fuel seems to have softened/disolved the rubber a little.  Will regular auto supply replacement "fuel" line resist diesel fuel?  The stuff sold at my local store is called fuel line as opposed to gas line so I assume that's because it will work for either gasoline or diesel.  It does seem to harden up after just a year or two under the hood of my gas vehicles though, it seems like a lot of things aren't as good quality as they used to be.  I feel lucky to get a full year out of name brand wiper blades nowdays.      Leland

Ooo---- I think I have a case of flywheel envy.                                                     Leland

Interesting project you got here RCA, I'd love to see some photos!  I have 2 of these motors by ChangFa and really like the design.  They are too loud for me to use for my Co-Gen project as I intended so I'm going to use a 6/1 listeroid instead.  I think you could be on to something useful with this idea and look forward to more reports!  I still hope to use my 175A's for something in the future.  Leland

Lister Based Generators / Re: Lister Start-O-Matic manual
« on: October 17, 2007, 02:01:41 AM »
Thanks for doing this Peter!  This type of info is very valueable to someone who needs it and very interesting reading to someone like me who looks at stuff like this just for fun!  (My shrink says they will find a cure for me someday!)                Leland

I know of a couple houses near me that use small hydro-electric systems that drain a small pond through a water turbine to make electricity.  The one I inspected was way cool!  They had a setup from the early fifties that made 2500 watts on demand and shut off the water to the turbine when no electricity was needed.  When the refrigerator or anything kicked on, 24V DC flowed through the circut and opened a solonoid pilot valve that controlled a water driven valve (sort of like a modern electric lawn sprinkler valve) which opened and the turbine spins up and you have power.  To keep from draining the pond that was filled from a small spring, opening the circut shut the valves off and stopped the water and the generator.  Really slick and had been pretty trouble free for 50 years!  I couldn't figure out what kept the 24V batteries isolated from the 120V AC power though,  the pilot valve voltage ran through the regular house wiring that the 120V ran through.  The batteries were charged by 2 small cheap auto battery chargers that were plugged into the 120V AC.  If I ever buy off grid property I'd try and get a place that could have hydro-power!  Leland

Generators / Re: ST head prep
« on: September 27, 2007, 08:18:31 AM »
Hey Zeke glad you got juice!  I'm not clear what the motor controller was plugged into, regular house outlet or is it powered by the ST head?  Did you check the harmonic winding for output while the generator was making voltage?  Have you tried reversing the poliarity of the output from the motor controller to the field?  If the harmonic winding generates power when exciting the field with the motor controller I would try exciting the field in each direction, then hook up a known good bridge after each test to see if you established some residual magnetism.  If there is no output from the harmonic winding I'd stick with the motor controller method.  In fact you might have a better waveform using the external exciter but I think I'd keep a spare motor controller on hand if you are going to stick with that.  If you get the ST head working after exciting the field in only one of the directions it might be that RCAvicitems theory about an embedded magnet and Dougs theory about the wrong type of steel are correct.  If you are stuck with having to use the motor controller powered by an inverter to get power when no utility power is available, congragulations on making lemonade out of a lemon!  I seem to be good at running into mysteries like this too.     Leland

Listeroid Engines / Re: 20-2 oil pump issues
« on: September 22, 2007, 11:09:29 AM »
I'd take out the spring on the bottom ball and see if it pumps.  The spring might cause too much resistance to flow or be holding the ball to the side and off it's seat.  Also you might find a little piece of grit keeping the ball from seating?  Just my thoughts.  Leland

General Discussion / Re: Don't ever buy a Toshiba Laptop!!! Ask me why not.
« on: September 10, 2007, 07:18:49 PM »
I had a Toshiba Satalite running windows 95 that was a good machine but now I have this one that has a persistant glitch when typing words.  This Toshiba runs XP pro and works O.K. except that when I'm typing it will start putting the letters in random places at random times and other weird things.  I think the keyboard controller circut is bad.  I will buy a Mac next time I get a laptop.     Leland

Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Black Stone
« on: August 25, 2007, 08:32:41 PM »
The Blackstone engines look way cool!  I would guess the combustion chamber is built that way so that the valves and seats can be removed from the engine for service and a working cartridge can be poped in in a matter of minutes.  If this is so what a great feature to keep the engine in service!              Leland

Hi again RCAvictim.  I was suprised at how much drag the belts added and that is what made the difference in being able to hand crank start the motor.  Without the belts on I can just barely hand start it and with the belts on I can't.  I thought of direct drive and I'm sure that would increase engine life but it was cheap and fast to use belts.  I wanted to slow it down to 2400 to try and increase engine life and the pulley from the motor mounted on the generator shaft gave me the ratio to do that using the double pulley that came with the motor.  I had to buy a $0.75 bushing to make the Briggs.  motor pulley fit the generator shaft, and I was up and running but with a lot of shaking back and forth.  The ChangFa is way too noisy so I'm setting up a listeroid set for a permenant back up genset.  I really love the design of the ChangFas and also the Petteroids but the Listeroids are way, way quieter to start with.  Leland

Hi RCAvictim.  I replaced an 8HP briggs & Stratten with a ChangFa 175A on an old 2.5KW genset.  It jumped around fore and aft too much with each power stroke so I added about a 100LB piece of steel plate under the motor and that smoothed it out a lot.  It could probably use even more weight but its hard enough to roll over my door sill as it is!  Since I don't have an electric starter I have thougt that adding more weight to the flywheel would make it easier to start and probably smooth out the whole setup also.  I'd like to mount an automotive flywheel and starter to the set but that would mess up my belt drive setup so I have been using a slow but powerfull electric drill to start it.  With the motor running at 2400RPM and the generator at 1800RPM it is happy at 2500W and is starting to make black smoke at 2900W.  I think the heavier the frame and flywheel the better if you don't have to move a genset.  I think I've heard that someplace also!  Leland

Engines / Re: engine balance - how to
« on: July 31, 2007, 10:05:20 AM »
This golf cart wiring has a thermal snap disc circut breaker (mounted on the chassis, not the motor) that is probably there to get hot and open just before something in the motor melts.  I'd seen the cart stranded on steep hills a few times over the years waiting for the overload to cool down and reset.  Since the overload doesn' touch the motor I guess maybe somebody tried too many trips up the hill on a cold day and one day the winding failed.  It was an easy fix, I just clamped a piece of wire onto the winding with a split bolt connector.  It would make a slick setup to have a starter/generator so I will play with it.  The problems would be the cooling which could maybe be fixed with a fan and lots of holes, and the fact that it is a series motor.  I don't think it would work to try and use as a generator with the field and armature in series, and if I try and run the field in parallel I'm afraid it would need a large resister to limit the current because the field has quite low resistance due to the fact it has few windings of large gauge wire.  I think I'd have to shove an inefficient amount of current through the field to generate enough voltage to recharge 36 volts of batteries.  Because of the potential value of having a starter/generator I will experiment a little after I finish balencing.  There is just not an easy way to put a starter on a Listeroid that I can see.  I think the easiest way would be to mount an automotive flywheel on the crankshaft and make a big ugly bracket to hold the starter.  That is on my to do list if this golf cart motor/generator thing doesn't work out.  The fun never stops....Leland

Engines / Re: engine balance - how to
« on: July 30, 2007, 05:35:30 AM »
Hi rcavictim.  I'm just using the golf cart motor to rotate my 6/1 so I can balance it.  I'm not sure this motor would be a good generator because it has no cooling.  There are no holes or air passages into the motor so I think it would get hot after a short time.  The cart was being thrown away because the stator windings are aluminum and got hot and melted off from where it was welded to a copper bolt, one of the terminals.  It came along on it's way to the scrap yard just as I was wondering how I could spin my 6/1 for balancing.  When I saw what was wrong with it and noticed that it has no way of cooling I was a little surprised; I wonder how long the designers expected it to last.  Hmm... I guess it made it about 20 years or so.  Short duty cycles I guess.                   Leland

Engines / Re: engine balance - how to
« on: July 29, 2007, 09:11:16 AM »
Well here's a good argument for simpiel.  I just tried moving one of my heavier weights on each flywheel around and just out of luck hit a very good balance!  I can now use a dial indicater to try and fine tune the balance but it must be real close.  I haven't weighed the U channel pieces yet but I think I have about 1.5 pounds on each flywheel at about 90 degrees from the cast counterweights.  It's so nice to not feel the vibration for the first time!  This has got to help things on the genset last a lot longer!  Oops... now I have to change my forum handel  :D maybe I could be M61sits?  In another thread someone wanted to know how much power it takes to rotate a 6/1 and I measured the 3HP golf cart motor I'm using to turn mine 650RPM for balancing as using 50A at 32V.  Thats about 1600 watts.                     Leland

Engines / Re: forced induction & torque converter
« on: July 29, 2007, 08:42:58 AM »
Sometimes, I do like the way you think Guy.  Glad you came back.                                Leland

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