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Messages - M61hops

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General Discussion / Re: Rigid RD90800s 8kw 3600rpm generator
« on: September 20, 2015, 07:03:25 AM »
Hi carlb23.  Check for DC voltage on the field winding, AC in the field won't make the generator put out power.  The field needs to make a North and South pole magnet that stays North and South.  Maybe a bad bridge.    Leland 

Hi George!  I don't want to be a kill-joy but the problem might be the wood floor.  You might try and run some 4x4 posts down to a footing in the earth under where you want the engine to sit.  I spent several hours trial and error balancing my 6-1 Metro.  It was a real bad hopper and I tethered it with bungee cords and used a 1" travel dial indicator to get it as smooth as I could.  It now "thumps" the earth for about 3' around where it sits.  I can feel every power stroke in my feet.  I plan to someday make a larger frame and fill it with a few hundred pounds of concrete to give some mass to the genset and then set the whole thing on a rubber mat.  I've got the dynamic balance as good as I could get but I need to somehow soak up the shock of the combustion event.  I had a similar problem with a 6hp Chang-fa engine, the whole genset jumped to and fro from the power stroke until I added a 100lb steel plate to the frame.  I don't know if I'm just unlucky or if all small single cylinder diesels want to move from the combustion event  ??? !  My 2 cents for today...                                   Leland

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Another 6/1 Restoration
« on: August 23, 2015, 07:05:06 PM »
Hi Dieselsmoker.  It will probably work OK to move the gen head closer to the drive flywheel.  I'd put it as close as you want but keep in mind that you might want to add an idler wheel to increase contact.  Or you could use the idler to tension the belt?  Smaller footprint could be a good thing!

General Discussion / Re: We're moving again....
« on: August 04, 2015, 10:22:10 AM »
Hey guy is it just me or is the spell check funkshen not workn in the new sirver?  Not that I noed it mesellf of corse  ??? !

Listeroid Engines / Re: 350 rpm 6/1?
« on: August 04, 2015, 10:12:37 AM »
Hi 650rpm.  I like to re-purpose auto parts to use for Listeroid projects.  I'd get an alternator from a truck or car that has a ribbed pulley already on it and charge batteries direct.  You don't have power pulse problems that way!

Listeroid Engines / Re: 12/1 Listeroid GM90 won't start - please help
« on: August 04, 2015, 09:55:19 AM »
Hi cornwallav8r.  Your engine needs 3 things to run: compression, fuel and timing.  Which insn't happening?  I'd take the injector off the head and spray it into a jar while cranking the engine over to check the atomazation, spray pattern and flow.  If you have all 3 requirements adequately  :P  met it will run.   

Everything else / Re: 3k st alternator just stopped mid work
« on: July 23, 2015, 09:50:26 PM »
Hi Tyssniffin, yes the origional rectifiers are notoriously prone to failure.  By the way the bridge in the photo looks to be fpr a center tapped transformer application.  The bridge rectifiers used for ST heads only have 4 connection wires.  The odds are good that a new rectifier solves your problem.                    Leland

Listeroid Engines / Re: Combined heat and power. Cloths dryer
« on: July 07, 2015, 08:58:53 AM »
Thanks for the photos, MR.X, Looks way cool!  Line shafting ran all the factories just fine back in the day!  I never gave a thought to the efficency of that system but I can see how it must be pretty good.      Leland

Listeroid Engines / Re: Combined heat and power. Cloths dryer
« on: July 05, 2015, 08:07:49 PM »
And that smug look gets wiped off my face yet again  ;D !  I guess I'll just kill myself if the grid quits...    I would love to see photos Mr.X, when you get the time.  I guess you spin the shaft with the 'Roid?    Leland

Listeroid Engines / Re: Combined heat and power. Cloths dryer
« on: July 05, 2015, 01:04:00 AM »
Hi Mr. X....  I would very much see how you power your metal lathe!  I use an old 10HP three phase motor as a phase converter to run mine, and it is not very efficent.  20 amps at 240 volts just to keep the converter idling, and it maxes out my 100 amp grid service everytime I start the 7.5HP spindel motor in the higher speed gears.  I'm very thankful that none of my neighbors have a clue why their lights flicker so much!  Varaiabl speed drives are now getting more affordable so I dream of getting one to use as a phase converter at some point.  I have thought of hooking up an internal combustion engine to the gearbox ever since I saw a VW motor running a line shaft setup in a friends off grid shop.  For me the most practicle option at this time is to leave well enough alone :'( !  Actually I've considered hooking a "Roid to the shaft of the converter motor and finding out if it would push my electric meter backwards while the lathe is off and provide more starting torque to the spindle when starting in the higher gears.  Anybody want to comment on that idea's practicality?  Not that I would actually do that of course ;) !     Leland

General Discussion / Re: We're moving again....
« on: June 15, 2015, 11:01:35 PM »
Thanks for putting in the time to keep us going!  :-*                           Leland

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Another 6/1 Restoration
« on: June 07, 2015, 11:04:10 PM »
Great job, Dieselsmoker, I like your style!  To me the ability to repair bushed mains makes them preferable to the roller bearing type.  What would be the worst that could happen if the bush bearings were turned from brass or aluminium ?  Would the hardness wear out the crankshaft metal?  ???                   Leland

Hi starfire and guys.  Hmmn... I never thought of the possibility of twisting the crankshaft  :-[.  I first tried a heavy pulley on the generator and the belt chirped on each power stroke even though it has a good amount of tension.  That started me dreaming of SOM flywheels.  I think the best way to use a CS type Listeroid would be to run a battery charging alternator like starfire does.  Then the power pulse can go right into the battery, among the other advantages.  For now I'm using an ST gen head and someday might alter the wiring to be able to charge 48v off the windings, or flip switches and use AC 120/240.  I had thought of making a spring loaded belt tensioner that would allow the flywheels to jump ahead on the power stroke and then the spring would let the gen head pulley/flywheel "catch up" over the next 3 strokes.  Decided to cobble together a redneck version of SOM flywheels with easy to get parts instead.  I have to confess that I look at the lug studs on the brake drums and I see some wheels and tires bolted on that reach the ground and then I've got about half a go cart.  Just in my mind... for now  :P !    Leland

Hi starfire, have you actually used this method of balancing an a CS type?  My Metro 'roid was a real extreme hopper and I thought of trying this method because I'd used it successfully on car wheels.  However I was concerned that the power pulses of an engine would move the tubing back and forth and keep the balls from finding the right nodes.  I ended up just trial and error placing some channel iron weights between the flywheel spokes.  This works pretty good but there was a lot of variation in the amount of weight tried as if it wasn't too critical.  I ended up using just the minimum weight to stop the hopping but I see videos of other engines that are overall way more stationary.  Also, I can't help wonder about smoothing the power pulses by adding extra rotating mass.  I got rid of the flicker by adding heavy brake drums to the crankshaft but I wonder if there is an upper limit to flywheel inertia benefits.  It seems like too much could waste power.  I have no idea if you will always get back the power in the combustion event over the rest of the strokes if you had, say, really really massive heavy flywheels.  Does anybody know if there is a point past which you start to lose overall horsepower with too much flywheel mass?  Is the price of cast iron or the bearing size or windage the practical limiter?  I tend to over think sometimes  :P !                  Leland

I second dieselgmans "Wow" and double down on it  :o !  A great find and should go into the wall of knowledge thread!  I like the COV plug heat exchanger idea but not sure that it's better than an electrical add on to the injector line because of the need for compression fittings and cutting the line.  However, they calculated the wattage equivalent of the heat gain from this plug mod to be between 23 to 42 watts so there you go for an electric heater!  Very thourough testing and a great article!                  Leland

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