Old-School Lister methods call for solid mounting to a large concrete mass. Modern genset methods always include rubber isolation mounts. Either way, your SR will be happy. If you go with the rubber mounts, you will still need an anchoring mass to bolt everything down to. Your SR1 is small and light enough to use a light duty steel skid and just bolt that to your floor or to a couple buried wooden skids, railroad ties or whatever you have to hand.

dieselgman

Excuse the genuine if simplistic question but what would the advantage be of one of these engines over the other comparable in say Kubota's, yanmayrs or other diesels of the same sort of output?

By the looks of the ones in the vids, the "megaroids" are not slow, they are not quiet, their longevity is not determined, they would be very heavy, take up a lot of space and may well have the typical issues of normal Roids.

Run them at 650rpm - not slow?
Balance and exhaust them through a good silencer system, not quiet?
Weight and space? Maybe not relevant factors for everyone.
Longevity - depends on your build quality... the design has some history and as far as I can fathom, is just an upscale of existing proven technology.


dieselgman

We have negotiated for the "Super sized" Listeroids, 20/1 and so on, on more than one occasion but ran into lack of cooperation for exporting when trying to combine loads from multiple vendors. Our biggest expenses on these have been getting past all the hoops and barriers for export/import. At some point we might deem it practical to commit a full container, but failing that, the simple lack of performance by one vendor can wreak havoc with the entire process and we cannot control what they do (or how they do it) beyond sending the money and praying everything goes well.

For me, the real problem comes down to a predictable control of the costs... Full containers are the way to go and combining products also helps us remain legitimate within bounds USA regulation.


How many folks in the USA are interested in the oversized machines? I think if we had a committment for 6 of them, I could renew those efforts. Or we could simply place the order and gamble with the details as to whether or not they can actually successfully get it past customs and whether or not the price gets doubled (or worse). I have had one heavy loss already due to overseas malfeasance (or at least incompetence), we cannot take any further losses at this time.

dieselgman

Also, I really need a fuel tank for this thing. I'm currently using an old coffee can that I drilled a hole in the bottom of, inserted a grommet, and inserted the fuel line. It spilled today making a mess. Anyone know where to get a fuel tank for an ST2?

Lister ST fuel tanks and ALL other L/P parts are stocked in Kansas. Contact Gary - gsj@gci.net

dieselgman

I spoke to Gary last week. The website is archived from 2008, since they are no longer allowed to advertise them as engines. The price for a kit 6/1 or 8/1 is 2195$ without cooling tank or plumbing. They do have plenty of them tho.

I'd absolutely love a slow speed listeroid, but with me just getting a ST2 SOM for 1000$, it was hard to justify the cost.

Thanks for the replies fellas. I knew something major had to be missing from those kits.

This is accurate... we do have a fresh container load of all models in our warehouse - including 18/1, 16/2, 30/2 and the original 6/1 and 8/1 clones. We stock all of the parts in good quantity and can guarantee you get a good bargain with one of these kits even if you find problems. We replace anything that becomes an issue, basically no questions asked.

We also have probably the last few museum grade "new in crate" 8/1 and 12/2 British Original engines. These engines will most likely never be produced like these original beauties again.


If you really like the original iron, but not the budget for museum grade, then you might be interested in one of our rebuilt British originals... we have those available mostly in 6/1 flavor.

Lacking the information on what generator head you have installed, exacting instructions cannot be determined. If you have an AVR on your unit, then disconnect F+ and F-, pay close attention to polarity and apply battery voltage here (to the leads going back to your windings) Not to the AVR. Be certain that you do not reverse polarity! I generally start with a 6 volt dry-cell battery and just apply that voltage for a short time without rotation of the generator. In some cases this will restore enough magnetism to start the head the next time it is run and this provides the maximum level of safety for your components and yourself. On sets with no AVR, you will need to apply the same DC voltage to the same portion of your windings, but the wiring is different and will require specific knowledge of your connections. You DO NOT do this to the main generator windings and NOT during operation of the machine. The only exception I know for sure will be the brushless Marathon "inherently regulated" heads. Most modern heads have AVRs or other feedback devices (capacitors or transformers) used to vary the excitation voltage.

Insufficient information provided... But you may need to "flash" your field. Restore magnetism if residual has been lost in storage.

dieselgman

Welcome! What is your location?

Brand (or exporter) has very little if any meaning when talking about this product from India. Everything is done via networks of mostly micro cottage industry, and there are no manufacturers (in the Western sense of the word) who produce everything from start to finish.

If you go with a true clone vs Listeroid type machine, you will not have any problem with parts interchange. Specify original British design when you purchase your machine.

dieselgman