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Messages - dieselgman

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Things I want to Buy / Re: Wanted listeroid in Alaska
« on: December 02, 2019, 01:39:18 AM »
Hi Guys, I am a little concerned about using either of those water cooled engines in an environment where the temperatures can drop down to minus eighty centigrade in winter. I would be looking for an air cooled engine maybe a Lister ST or SR, more economical and very reliable in very cold conditions. They run at 1500 or 1800 RPM to meet your local generating requirements (50/60 HZ).


What environment is that? Antarctica? Lol the lowest temperature ever recorded on earth is close to that.
Lister/Petter used to test their air-cooled engines in Antarctica winters... dramatic extremes. We have supported them for decades in Alaska as well. Air-cooled does not make for easy startup, but they will start and run if you can warm up the lube oil plus intake manifold. Glow plugs and pre-heat plugs are a must.

Engines / Re: going prices on lister ST2 engine ???????
« on: November 08, 2018, 01:01:18 AM »
Location is everything when looking for market value!

Engines / Re: HR2
« on: November 08, 2018, 12:59:55 AM »
There are a number of different governor and linkage configurations for the HR.

If rack is hitting overload, then either the settings are wrong or the engine is not developing power to match that load.

Which engine model and what is your load?

Engines / Re: Tl2 running fault
« on: November 08, 2018, 12:38:58 AM »
Your governor and or pump racks are likely stuck in place. Whether fixed speed or variable, most common on pump drives, does not matter. Pull the side cover under each fuel pump and make sure there is free travel fore and aft. The governor and both pumps must be freely moving for the governing system to operate. Stuck pumps are very common, and the remedy is to remove and clean out or rebuild the pump itself.

Engines / Re: Lister LV2 Cylinder heads removal
« on: November 08, 2018, 12:35:33 AM »
probably a fair amount of corrosion between iron cylinder and aluminum head.

Presumably you already have manifolds, fuel injector pipes removed plus external oil lines and cooling baffles removed.

Patience, heat, solvent, rubber mallet, start by removing the studs completely and lay the engine on its side, soak well with penetrating solvent (inside and out if possible through your ports), apply heat externally to the heads to cause expansion, whack them good with soft hammer plus wooden blocks. Usually what happens is the cylinders will pull off the pistons along with the heads. Then you can work them from inside and outside the bores.

Listeroid Engines / Re: New here :)
« on: October 28, 2018, 12:17:56 AM »
We keep good stocks for nearly ALL Lister engine models made in the past 50 years. SR models are commonplace and well supported.


PJ1 and PJ2 ring end gap  .029 to .037 inch
bump clearance .036 to .042
bore 3.8175 to 3.8185 inch


Petteroids / Re: Arrow C46 closed for free.
« on: October 17, 2018, 02:21:44 AM »
Good score! Most of those oilfield engines are built to last and Arrow provides pretty good stuff.


Things I want to Buy / Re: LOKING FOR A CS 6/1 OR 8/1
« on: October 09, 2018, 05:32:39 PM »
Hi all, thanks again. still looking. I due have to give  apologies to Gary. I must of had him confussed with some one Els. he got right back to me . we talked "a lot"  just can't get to my budget of 2K. I will check out the aussi. problem with that if I go there I won't come back. they have the best gold and opals on the planet.... I am a miner/ prospector.
still looking for a Cs at this time and winter is coming.

peace to all

As far as I know, we already let you know you could get to your target price by local pickup. Best of luck on that hunt!


Things I want to Buy / Re: Looking for a Lister LT1 or possibly and LV1
« on: October 09, 2018, 05:30:39 PM »
From dozens to hundreds of various Lister models at our Kansas warehouse. LT and LV included. Pretty much everything L/P has built over the years.


Listeroid Engines / Re: Oversized "Listeroid" interest?
« on: October 06, 2018, 06:11:34 PM »
Interesting that the Indians have been able to produce such large single cylinder engines, personally I would have thought it easier, and cheaper, to build a smaller twin cylinder unit. All very well increasing the bore and stroke, have they increased the size of the crankshaft, bearings and housings to cope with this extra power output? How big a man and starting handle do you need to swing an 22/1 into life? Unless they get the balancing right it will quickly destroy itself, alternatively it will destroy the foundation it`s sat on before exiting the building and laying waste to the neighborhood.  :laugh:


As with all decent builds, you must address proper balancing. Starting is very comparable to any of the smaller displacement units. You have a little more reciprocating mass, but you spin that portion up to speed with compression released and then just let the rotating mass carry it through the first starting impulses when you close the exhaust valve. It has heavier flywheels to help make it happen.


« on: October 05, 2018, 02:31:46 PM »
We have all the Original Petter manuals from L/P Americas... 100s in stock.


Things I want to Buy / Re: LOKING FOR A CS 6/1 OR 8/1
« on: October 05, 2018, 02:25:55 PM »
thank you all for the responses. been looking on the net for 2 years, no luck. I due have a full private shop. I have never had any luck contacting Gary, sent several emails in the far past. will try again.
thank you all . ill keep watching

Alive and well here... 4 incoming phone lines and email -

Should never be an issue with contact 24/7

We have the largest Lister/Petter inventories in the Western Hemisphere including all of the L/P Americas factory resources/tooling/etc..


Engines / Re: Lister TS3 Fuel Spill Timing
« on: September 10, 2018, 02:32:38 PM »
There are many ways to approach this...

This is how I do it.
gravity flow your fuel supply (I use a small elevated tank), Remove all air from the system, roll crankshaft in direction of normal rotation until fuel flow stops. Make sure the fuel rack is in the run position.
It helps to use a capillary tube or an old fuel line to clearly see the exact point at which fuel stops. One other snafu that comes up is making certain that you are on the compression stroke for the cylinder being adjusted - both valves will be fully closed.


Old-School Lister methods call for solid mounting to a large concrete mass. Modern genset methods always include rubber isolation mounts. Either way, your SR will be happy. If you go with the rubber mounts, you will still need an anchoring mass to bolt everything down to. Your SR1 is small and light enough to use a light duty steel skid and just bolt that to your floor or to a couple buried wooden skids, railroad ties or whatever you have to hand.


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