Just found a drawing of it.  Seems David Edgington (may his name be praised!) received permission to post the original manual from Lister.  It's copyrighted 1986.
The diagram in question can be found on page 35 of the .pdf manual that you can view at http://www.woodnstuff.ca/images/dursley.pdf

The plate (pt. no. 116) does indeed have a slot in it and it appears to be flat, not v-shaped.

Is a puzzlement.

Quinn

Jack,

I might be wrong about the slot.  I'm looking at a drawing in one of the manuals and it's in profile, but it appears that the dipper penetrates the splash plate, hence the need for either a slot or detail in the drawing that indicates it was bent into a "V" beneath the dipper.  Seems with all the original CS 6/1s changing hands that someone could take a peek inside with a digital camera and post a pic.  

My diagram (actually it's in the PS manual, Jack, you have one) indicates the splash (or anti-splash?) plate had a lip that engaged the edge of the upper sump, then rose up against the back of the case (I'm mentally peering in the large CC inspection hatch) where it was secured by a bolt.  

I just wonder what they were trying to accomplish.  Could it be as simple as keeping the access hatch from leaking like a newborn, or was there a lubrication-related purpose that we don't know about?  

Quinn

Dirk,

Some engines come with fasteners, e.g. nuts/bolts/studs and threaded holes that were made with worn out taps and dies.  My Ashwamegh is like that.  I ended up replacing most of the hardware with stuff I bought locally.  Thread gauge will probably indicate they're off when, in fact standard US nuts/bolts/studs fit just fine.

Threads on the plumbing fittings will be different, however.  British parallel pipe thread or BPPtaper depending on location.  The 1 1/4" female threads on the exhaust flange are one that require the British pipe thread.  I cut the nipple out of the exhaust silencer that came with my Ashwamegh engine and welded that to a 1 1/4" NPT nipple and made my own adapter.  Adapters can be bought at www.mcmaster.com  Search under British Pipe and you should end up looking at a page of adapters.

Rotsaruck!

Quinn

Ok, some results to report.

Added about 1/2 bottle (that would be about 16 ozs [1 pound/454 g for you north of the 48th parallel] of "Crystal Drain Cleaner" from Home Depot to half a five gallon bucket (you're on your own with the arithmetic) of _really hot_ tap water.  Lots of angry boiling-type sounds came from the bottom of the bucket.  Stirred the stuff around until the angry noises subsided to keep from burning a hole in the bottom of the plastic bucket, then began carefully loading painted parts stripped of nuts/bolts/pins, etc.  First the cylinder head, then cam covers, manifolds, nuts/bolts, etc.   Then topped up with more really hot tap water until the liquid just covered the parts (probably 3/4 full) and stirred to distribute the stuff around.

The solution immediately turned black and boiled like a hot tub as carbon came off the parts.  Then it changed to a sort of blue-green black as the paint dissolved, then lightened somewhat as the gray primer and plaster filler came away.

I left the bucket in the laundry sink overnight and removed the parts early this morning before work.  Rinsed them with hot water and brushed the paint residue out of the grain of the cast iron and set the parts aside to dry.

Last engine I stripped, I spent about a month of afternoons with chemical stripper and flap sanding disks and a whole lot of elbow grease to get all the paint off. 

Regarding disposal, it occurred to me after I posted my last that this stuff is drain cleaner.  It's intended to be dumped down the drain and the municipal waste treatment evidently can handle small amounts of the caustic stuff.  The paint residue, which might contain lead, is settling in the bucket as I type.  I'll pour off the liquid this afternoon and transfer the paint residue to newspapers that the Hazmat folks can have next time they announce a pickup.

Quinn

My kids tell me that I'm not as dumb as I look.   

You're probably right about the paint residue.  Last engine, I just dumped the sweepings off the floor in the trash over a period of about 4 weeks.  This time it should end up in the bottom of the barrel and a couple of 5-gallon paint cans if I get it all. 

Still interested in sand blasting, but haven't had that done before.  Anybody care to take a stab at what should be a fair price to pay if I took it to a place to have it done?

Quinn

I just got back from the Ho'  They still have lye.  It's in the plumbing aisle and called "crystal drain cleaner."  The Red Devil brand was conspicuous by its absence. 
A gander at the label on the back said, "Contents:  Sodium hydroxide."  Period.  End of sentence. 

32 ozs. for five bucks and change.  Picked up two.  I think I'll do all the small parts in a 5-gallon plastic bucket.  Once I get to the crankcase I'll get creative.  I have a 55 gallon plastic barrel that I might be able to use for that.  Not quite sure if the CC will fit in there.  But I'm highly motivated to avoid using mechanical means to strip the paint on this engine. 

Better Living Thru Chemistry!

Quinn

D'they make beer up in Canadia?

Quinn