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Messages - Quinnf

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31
Listeroid Engines / Re: balance and stover 20" on a 6/1, left and right?
« on: December 31, 2014, 07:11:22 PM »
I think the manufacturer put the wrong flywheels on that engine.  Those are for an internally balanced 10/1.  The internally balanced Indian engines had/(have?) four circular cutouts and require counterweights on the big end to balance the reciprocating forces. 

A while back I determined that the counterweight cast into the 22" 6-spoke flywheels weigh about 48 ozs, each.  It wouldn't be hard to calculate the necessary weight to bolt onto the 10/1 flywheel web to provide the same balancing force at 650 rpm.  But given the smaller radius of the stover flywheels, the counterweight would have to be quite a bit heavier than that.  A machine shop could cut a couple of pieces of steel that could be bolted through one of the cutouts in the web.  But I have another solution which involves a pair of new old-stock 6-spoke 6/1 flywheels that I got from Joel when he was selling off his remaining spare parts.  I wanted to help Joel out, so paid him for them and hauled them home.  Subsequent to that, I pulled my biceps tendon off my radius bone lifting a flywheel in a way I shouldn't have, and had to have surgery to repair it.  So my RN-wife informed me that I'm not allowed to lift flywheels any more.   

Tyssniffen and I have discussed the matter offline. 

Quinn



32
Listeroid Engines / Re: balance and stover 20" on a 6/1, left and right?
« on: December 30, 2014, 11:18:37 PM »
PMed you.

Quinn

33
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: What's wrong with this picture ?
« on: December 18, 2014, 12:44:39 AM »
What you didn't hear just before the video started was Bubba saying, "Here, hold my beer!"


34
Listeroid Engines / Re: Oil change interval
« on: December 10, 2014, 10:36:21 PM »
Hi Hugh,

I neglected to state that I determined the proper level by running the engine up to temperature, then quickly pulling the access plate and noting the height of the oil.  You have to overfill the engine a about 1/4 - 1/2 inch over the lip of the sump to ensure the upper sump stays full.  Then I filed a mark on the dip stick that corresponded to that level.  Then I thought about it a bit and removed the non-functioning oil pump and capped the holes in the crankcase.  If I ever decide to run that engine (it's crated now) I'll probably spend some time working on the oil pump to make sure it does what its name implies.  


35
Listeroid Engines / Re: Oil change interval
« on: December 10, 2014, 05:19:30 PM »
You're right about the first of the month thing.   :o  If I were in school studying psychology or nutrition, or even business, a great senior project would be to  . . .  but I digress . . . 

TSC, too, has a brand of catalyzed tractor paint that brushes on smooth, dries hard and leaves a finish like porcelain.  I used it to repaint my 1963 South Bend Heavy 10 lathe.  I think the previous owner used house paint on the poor thing.  Were I repainting a 'roid I'd definitely use it. 

Regarding oil, there's a real dilemma.  Traditionalists say that old engines were designed to use the simple lube oils of the day.  The double sump arrangement of the traditional Lister/Listeroid allows dirt to settle there, but only if you use non-detergent oil.  However there are many advantages to the use of modern multi-visc./detergent oils.  Good luck hand cranking a cold engine on a cold morning using 30 wt.!  And the viscosifiers that were added to oils to cause them to thicken when mechanical shear is removed, thereby keeping oil in the bearings while the engine is stopped are well worth having.  I'm sure the engine designers in days of yore would have made use of modern oils, had they been available.  However, if you use a modern oil, you really should have some sort of filter, even if it's Jack Belk's terrycloth rag wired to the inside of the crankcase door. 

I've never seen a really good arrangement for pumping oil on one of these engines.  I have two engines, an Ashwamegh 6/1 with the single sump, and thus only splash lubricated (Old Silver in my avatar).  The second is a Jkson, the Beta Test kit engine from George/Joel which has the double sump.  When I tore down and rebuilt that engine to document the process for George/Joel, I didn't trust the supplied oil pump to hold up, so I left it off when I reassembled that engine.  Besides, the supplied oil pump was missing a spring behind the ball in the check valve, so I figured I'd just keep the oil level above the lip of the upper sump and call it good.  George wisely said "If it's not part of the design, it can't fail."  For my money, reliability trumps authenticity.  I use 10-40 Rotella in my engine and hope for the best. 


36
Listeroid Engines / Re: Oil change interval
« on: December 10, 2014, 04:00:41 PM »
Non-detergent 30 wt. is getting hard to find.  I've seen 20 wt. non-detergent sold as air compressor oil at WalMart.*  Some larger auto suppliers stock non detergent oils for use in vintage automobiles.  Amazon.com sells it, but their product description reads as follows:


Blended from premium base stocks with additives which provide wear and oxidation inhibition

Recommended for manual transmissions and gear boxes which do not require an extreme pressure gear lubricant

Good lubricants for general purpose use and for some hydraulic systems

Can be used in selected older engines where the manufacturer recommends API SB or MM oils

Valvoline non-detergent motor oil SAE 30 does not meet the performance requirements of any modern engines



http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV265-6PK-SAE-Non-Detergent-Motor/dp/B00DJ4FKAO


Quinn

* I don't shop there, I just go in from time to time to see if Larry the Cable Guy is right about the kind of people who do!



37
General Discussion / Re: In case any of you are looking for a job,,,
« on: November 15, 2014, 11:34:12 PM »
Past experience indicates he reads it frequently.  The posted job was/would be a good opportunity for a high school kid to learn something about working with his hands.  I worked for some rather eccentric people when I was a kid (1970s, so you get the idea) and those experiences taught me the value of sobriety, and one's character.  And how to tell when you're dealing with one!   ::)


38
General Discussion / Re: In case any of you are looking for a job,,,
« on: November 11, 2014, 06:35:12 AM »
I don't want to start anything, but oh, there's SO much that could be said.  "Non-profit Organization."  "Most work done outside" (in the driveway).  Beware flying eggs from the neighbor's window.  Psychology students welcome, etc. 

But, as my dear old Grandma used to say, "If you can't say something nice, then shut up or I'll SLAP you!"




39
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Normal Amount of Rust in a water jacket?
« on: November 07, 2014, 11:49:25 PM »
If you can find some citric acid, a 3% solution in warm water will eat the rust away overnight and leave the metal untouched. 

40
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: COV WTF??
« on: October 21, 2014, 06:03:05 AM »
To air-start a Lister/'roid would would turn a chick-magnet into a lady-killer!  You'd have to learn karate just to fend off the women throwing themselves at you.  I think you'd need to register it with the appropriate government agency. 

quinnf

41
Lister Based Generators / Re: Fishboat Generator Question
« on: September 23, 2014, 04:25:04 PM »
The idea is that the diesel engine powering the generator doesn't do well under low-load conditions.  Downtime for repairs means no fish in the hold and no money in the bank, so as a precaution, many/most fishboats run their lights all the time, even in the daytime, to keep the diesel loaded. 

I'm with you on the safety issue.  In confined waters, encountering one of those guys can ruin your night vision in a hurry.  However, when I crewed on offshore races, I always felt uneasy sailing with just the nav lights on.  Even on a moonlit night you can't see squat.  There are lots of things out there that go bump in the night.  Kelp rafts, unlit buoys, drift nets, logs, deadheads, timbers discarded from cargo ships, even partially submerged shipping containers.  Running into the wrong one can be fatal. 

Quinn

42
Listeroid Engines / Re: 3 Utterpower/Metro 6/1s on Ebay
« on: August 15, 2014, 06:29:57 AM »
Thanks for mentioning it, Hugh.  Didn't think anyone remembered that. 

Geez, almost makes me think about putting the Beta Test engine up for sale.  Hasn't been run since I finished the reassembly.  But it's so pretty.  I keep thinking it'd look great in a corner of the living room. 


43
Listeroid Engines / Re: 3 Utterpower/Metro 6/1s on Ebay
« on: August 12, 2014, 06:23:34 PM »
I expect there's a story there.  Dumping three of them on the market at the same time seems sub-optimal from a pecuniary standpoint. 

q.

44


I sort of did a double take when I saw the vid. said -17 F.  Orcas Island?  Wife and I are on Fox Island **, and it never gets much below freezing.  That vid' must have been someone else's build.

Direct drive via a flex coupler, on a welded steel base, for $700, it's a bargain.  Too bad I won't be up there again 'till September, or I think I might snag it.


Quinn

** she, full time; me, part time (working in So. Cal., taking care of elderly parents)



45
Things I want to Buy / Re: standard 22inch flywheels
« on: May 15, 2014, 03:17:13 AM »
Gary's right.  You can't put just any flywheel on any engine.  Typically the spoked flywheels that you're looking for are only used on 6/1 engines at 650 rpm.  Some Indian assemblers include them on their 8/1 engines which run about 800 rpm.  But the stover-type flywheels with the four equal diameter holes in the web are intended only for the 10/1 which operates at about 1000 rpm.  If you put a 6/1 flywheel on a 10/1 engine, it will be out of balance, and the excessive speed may destroy the flywheel and the engine and possibly cause damage to anything/anyone nearby.

That said, I have a pair of new, unused 6/1 spoked flywheels that I have no need for.  I'm in southern California and get up and down the length of the West coast every few months. 

Quinn

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