The "milled waldorf" slot is where the retainer screw goes - anywhere else is likely to cause a misalignment and stuck plunger. The barrel is actually clamped in place with the delivery valve and its cap - thus making a good seal between them. You can get the plunger rotated 180 out - but our past experience has been that the pump will not operate at all if this happens. Maybe you have a new or different twist happening with yours, we normally are working with Bryce and Lucas (European), not (Indian) Bosch parts.

We always keep regular stocks for 6/1 and 8/1 in kit form... no messing around with a "compressor" - get the real thing without any subterfuge. Stock location is central Kansas.
We also still have a couple of the grandfathered KOEL (Kirloskar) 8/1s if you need a completed and completely legal "engine" to operate.

dieselgman

   
i did put the screw into the milled slot.
i'll try swapping it around yet again.
its kinda like the rack slipped a tooth. but when you close the rack the wear pattern looks to be right.

central kansas is a nice day trip. tell me more about pricing ect. on thease engines.  i hate [subterfuge] ha!
getterdone

it dont take that much.  if you get a knock you sprayed to much.
i'v got 3500hrs on it . it will run, just goes into over speed. your right maby i should change starting habits.,but thats not the problem.
it was running just fine until i took the pump off for cleaning , which you will have to do if you run on veggie oil.

well, i put the enjecter pump back togeather yesterday and installed it on the6/1 started it up ................had to shut it down, because it went into a runaway state.
i am dum founded of what the problem is.
i just figured i'd wait for the new pump and see what happens with that one.
before i install it i'll look into the fuel enlet hole and see how the plunger rod is positioned.
that will tell me if i assembled the old one right.

my injector started getting sticky because i burn veggy oil.  every 4months i have taken it off and clean , i take it apart clean all the pieces put it back togeather and install it back in place.
this time i cant get it to govern right. it will run away.
can any one tell me which way should the plunger rod should be in relation with the fuel inlet hole.
i've tried it both ways with no luck.
one way makes the rack work backwards.
i took it apart and changed it i know 5 times and i'm stumped.
i ordered a new one and will have it in a few days but it makes no sence to me why it won't work
one thing i did different was to pull the plunger [the adj shaft with the roller on it] that you adjust the timing with. and clean it off.
another thing that was different , the check valve seat came out .  that being said there is threads on the seat side of this. machined surface on the other end with a seal in between.
i know the two machined surfaces go togeather and the check valve with its seat on top of that then spring and lastly the fitting. am i right?
hope this makes sense.
what could be the problem? could the rack moved a tooth or something? i have never taken the rack apart, i dont know how you would get it apart.
i've got Georges cd but it dont show how to dissamble and reacemble the thing.
thanks for any help i can get. john

got the injection pump cleaned and put back togeather for the 6/1.
lacquer thinner worked ok I'll try the mystery oil next time.
i did have to do a little head scratching when i put the rod thingy back in. it can go two ways.
i put the pump back on and primed it. runs like a champ now.

I sent xyzer  a email and he said he wasn't making any more.
can any one supply me one?
i know this is going to cause me problems in the future. [timing problems.,another gear replacement.,etc.....]
I rely on this engine totally and want it to last.
I am off grid power.
please help.......

oh i forgot to say:  I ordered a timing gear from them and $20.00 for shipping did seem a bit high.