I would gladly pay more. I have been backing up topics of interest in text format and it's a PITA. Dealing with the photos if they are even still available is a bigger PITA. All photos uploaded to coppermine in the past are gone. Darn it...

.XPS files were way to large.

Amarbir
Love your web site, photo's  and frustrating story. Let me know when it finished so I can read up.
Can I hire Pal to overhaul mine? 

Dave

I totally agree with you Spencer.
The cost of everything involved to produce off-grid adds up. The initial cost of everything involved for me is well over two years worth of grid power cost. The fuel, maintenance and replacement costs doesn't make it cost effective at all for me. I don't have an unlimited supply of WMO to work with. Buying a bank of batteries every 8 years or so pretty much killed the idea for me. I would if I was forced to. Ppl operating in this mode are well off-grid and have no other option. And as Bob said, co-gen makes it move viable. I live where it is always hot, 73f today so I don't require the heating aspect.

Maybe a Lister isn't the best platform for this veture as well.

But it sounds as if you have already made that initial investment. Work the numbers and see if it falls in your favor. I wouldn't give up on WMO until I have proven beyond a shadow of a doubt it isn't cost effective.

That's my stand. If we can get past the head knocking there is solid potential here to perform some serious first hand WMO research. Spencer has an unlimited supply, the desire (or need) to use it and has provided some crude performance baseline. So what if he didn't document to the nth degree what he was doing, this is still a data point. Actually a solid data point in the aspect that if you collect ??, filter it like ??, and burn it like ?? this is what happens. Fill in the blanks and that is baseline.
From there you either address muliple parameters (the wiser move to manage cost of liners and rings) or change a single parameter, closely monitor and document operating characteristics and note outcome.
Such parameters would be:
Fuelstock >> What EXACTLY is it and how can it be improved
Filtering >> How EXACTLY is it done and how can it be improved
Temp and Load >> Where should this be and can it be changed

Measure and document, document, document
Pull the head and inspect on a defined interval. Don't clean unless required and document (up for discussion). Do this for a defined period, analyse results, change a parameter, and repeat.After a period of time and experimentation things should start falling together. You may not like the results but you will know. You may realize that you would have to process it something like Rbodell or another method to make it pratical, but you will know...
 
Don't give up on the project just because you don't agree with baseline results. Baseline is your starting point, you have it, use it, work it.
I wished I was in your shoes, WMO was a key selling point on buying a roid but I never run mine and it has taken me 7 years to collect ~150 gal's of known stock. I know exactly what oil I have, Valvoline 5W-20 and 10W-40, segregated and labeled, family oil changes.

OK, can I crawl back under my rock now?

 

I would like to see a photo of your setup when you have time to post.

Dave

You puzzle me with this internally regulated alternator with an external "Field" line. I have only ran into powertrain command turn off lines for engine unloading purposes. This ties to the internal regulator, not the actual field circuit.
What make and model is this alternator?

Regards
SteveU.

Thanks Steve
You may be 100% correct. I do not have the model in front of me but one contact is "R" and the second is "F" therefore I ASSUMED regulator and field. And I ASSUMED that I could control the field current at this contact. There is also the third large post for the regulated voltage output. I had this same alternator connected to a 2-stroke chainsaw engine many years ago used as a stand-alone auto battery charger. It worked great until the clutch finally smoked and I just tossed in the corner with the rest of my junk. I had to pulse it on and off for awhile utlil the battery was partially charged to keep it running but once I got enough charge in it the little engine would stay up with it. It would give me about 2.5A once running unassisted. I was wanting to try to control the output current then by controlling the current through the 'F' connection but didn't get to it before failure. I acquired this briggs as a valid replacement but really don't have a need for a charger anymore. It was one of those things when a friend asks "you want this old engine" and of course I say "YES", then thinking up some justification story for the wife all the way home with it...
 
WOW, 40%? That pretty much kills the whole idea if this proves to be coreect. I will never see the required 2kw from this type of setup with 6HP. I am guessing at 2kw as well. I do not know how much this little A/C actually draws but I do know it will melt the 15A adaptor plug if used for too long but will never trip the 20A breaker. I will do as you suggested and connect the two to get some real numbers. I didn't bother last time. I need to get my hands on a current probe anyway and I can use this as an excuse

Thanks
Dave

I know this is certainly off-topic to this forum but I trust you guys

I have a 6HP vertical shaft lawn mower engine in great shape. I also have a 90A, 12V alternator. The alternator has the built in regulator and externally controlled field, meaning I can place a control switch in line with this circuit to activate, deactivate the output. I have this stuff lying around and of course I want to play and tie them together. My first thought was to use it for a battery charger but then I thought about adding another, larger alternator as well to produce ~2.5KW to operate the A/C on my travel trailer. The big ticket item will be the modified waveform power inverter at about $400. The second 140A alternator is about $100. I know some of you are thinking “why not just go buy a mickey mouse 3600 rpm screamer?” and I have to say “where is the fun in that?”
Questions are:
Will there be a problem paralleling two 12V auto alternators of different capacities?

Has anyone here attempted this and can provide firsthand experience?

Is having a high wattage rheostat in series with the field voltage to control output doable?

Thanks
Dave

and will be keeping my eyes open for a better hosting company.. until then., pray for the site

I have used http://www.routhost.com/ for years and have never been down for a minute, well unless I forgot to pay my bill...

Dave