if your pully from mike is like mine with 8 groves (i believe) a lot of auto parts stores carry these belts. if all else fails pricy but napa has them. i made  a pulley to work as a guide and tensioner my father got an idler off a caterpiller to do the same.

love the spinning to extract the unwanted proven they do work {some of them}.  just for the 2 pennys i have been using a toilet paper filter that is suppose to be around 1 micron. for those who want to try it is a compressed air filter to remove water. the model i have is a m-60 made by " motor gaurd corp" it is 1/2 npt in and out the replacement filters from them are m 723. not sure of the $ as it was a gimmie i do remember the filters to be way more than tp this is a canister that spilts in 1/2 with a quad ring to seal. after many atempts i put the filter on the suction side of operation. the quad would give out mant spit balls not round would fly randomly and the sticky goo was everywhere and flys too.  the # is 209 239 9191. yes it is a air filter but it does work for wvo also am using a hyd motor/pump to move the wvo yes there is such a thing. grainger 4f653. noisey but chucked up in a 1/2 hammer drill on low 1100 rpm about 9 gph. did get racor biocide bad a stuff 1.5 oz per 100 gal. of distillate fuels gas #1 & #2 diesel and bunker c  this is to kill fungi and backteria. did mix in so im hopin it good sorry for the on and on but got to tell it like it is

 had stuck keys and wheels. keys were a b wheels were not as bad as "1/2 nuts" as far as getting broke free [was not easy] but the trouble was they moved just enough not to get the gibber back in. i used castrol SPF spray can stuff . broke down the gue back and frorth for a long time gaining a little each time. mine are not press fit as i dont believe any others are. there should be a thou or so SLIP you may have a bunch of gue between the wheel and crank. if i had to i would go with the fire it off wirh no key. the wheel will not just break free and go hauling a.  you may have a tight clearance but "they" dont sit on the floor" with a sledge putting these wheels on. penetrating fliud and a budge will probably do.  if u dont mind why are u removing? also not proud but you might or mightnot want to look at GIB KEY REMOVERS u already have yours out but i posted about what could happen when you puttem back in. rots of ruck                                                                             

                                                                                                                      happy listering whenever the time comes

tks bro . i would change the bolts to 1/2 20 cause the threads on the 7/16 bolts were getting quite knackered. would spread the pattern of the top 2 just a smidge to accept a bigger bolt/nut combo. when whipped up i was worried about the bolt going off the ledge of the flywheel NOT A PROB. also if you hold the bolt and turn the nut with a wrench [a lot easier said than done] your chances of running the bolt off the ledge or step are greatly reduced.  clean the tree sap from the keyway [thats what it smelt like] dremel w/wire brush is what i used. PLEASE mark your gibs at the flywheel FIRST. when reinstalling make damn sure your mark is where it was before you took it out if not buried when you pound the gib back in. 24/2 one wheel walking off crank after bal. same same w/ 12/1. dont bet the farm on the solid sound upon reinstalling. no damage was done but dont want to find out. the key never flew out [ouch] both engines it was going with the flywheel for a walk. the crank sticks out a good ways for the aux pulley and start handle so it is easy to see it happening. my experience was within 30 sec. it was happening. after 10min of no movement all was good. pops got 10 or so hours playing and loading the st no probs. maybe some tree sap in the grove when done wouldnt be   a bad thing or even when putting back together.             happy listering   later

got two pennys to throw in so here it goes.  roid 24/2 at 1000 rpm never will be smooth as a benz but did have a ground pounder. after reading this that and the other (all good ideas) on this forum about this issue this is how i tamed the beast. not going to bal the crank at this time to happy with the results from today.  took the wheels off threw them on a truck tire balancer in static mode one off 7oz the other 2oz . the needed weight was applied with stick ons after an acetone wipe ladies and gents i have a different motor all together. the twin now runs like a twin should. i hope the mole doesnt deside to move back in  thats all folks just had to get it out

thanks for the 411. new to lister wish id known 20 years ago. am a jack of all trades master of none but did minor and a little major repair on lots of internal comb. engines. i saw the " easypull" on utterpower but he's been sold out. i knew the lifter is not like a v8 lifter it is bigger on the bottom. was not sure if after i removed the guide would the lifter clear the guide bore. i have access to a machine shop so a guide pluller is in order. again thanks

does the cam shaft need removed to get the lifters out?