I did a tear down of my first 6/1 to correct a few issues like growling bearings in the ST and paint everything up nice. I didn't know how well the portable idea was going to work out and skipped the make it purdy part. The rod bearings looked good Timken’s everything looked fine. It always wanted to loose a bit of oil out the breather but nothing a rag wrapped around it couldn't handle. I always suspected oil running down between the precision sheet metal splash guard on the inside of the breather inspection cover was the culprit so I straighten it all up so it sealed good against the inside of the cover. I had the crank polished put in a new set of rod bearings a new gasket set and did a fuel filter upgrade. Then came the time for the 2nd fire.....got it all bled out...what a pain! Someone on here mentioned pressurized the fuel tank and that seemed to aid in the process. She fired right up and did great. I adjusted thing and tightened up this and that then noticed a good flow of oil coming from the breather. All those negative things came to mind! I didn't line the ring up right...or they were worn out...that will teach me to check the ring gap! But the way it was loosing oil just didn't make sense! If the rings were that shot it would not start and run so well. I have heard of others with this issue and the tied rag was mentioned, also blow by. Well I figured out what was the culprit in my case. If the precision sheet metal splash guard has to small of an opening the air on its way out picks up velocity taking oil with it. 3 hours might dump a quart.  I pulled off the inspection cover and took a screwdriver to it and bent it out so it had a big air passage. What do you know it no longer pukes out the breather.


Dave   

I was thinking() the other day while my oid was warming up what if we used a larger air bleed hole in the thermostat. I watched as the temp gauge it climbs up to 190 or so then it opens and gets a shot of cold water and drops back down to 100 or less. This cycle repeats over and over until the cooling system gets warm then it will stay at 200 or so. If we used a larger hole in the thermostat it would allow more flow and it would eliminate some of the cold shock. Do I make any sense?
Dave

There has been several threads on what to use and not to use. What is a good paint that will hold up inside the crankcase? I know some have use Gyptol but I'm getting low on it so what else have you guys used that works?
Dave

Instead of hauling my used motor oil, auto trans fluid and hydraulic fluid to the proper disposal site I was wondering if there is a safe ratio of the mentioned oils I can mix to my Kubota tractor and late model dodge diesel without worrying about doing any damage. What kind of preparation for it would be required? What should I watch for? I’m not to worried about my “Listeroid” I can fix any problems it has easily.
Thanks
Dave

The US standard railroad gauge (distance between the rails) is 4 feet, 8.5
inches. That's an exceedingly odd number.


Why was that gauge used? Because that's the way they built them in England , and
English expatriates built the US railroads



Why did the English build them like that? Because the first rail lines were
built by the same people who built the pre-railroad tramways, and that's the
gauge they used.


Why did 'they' use that gauge then? Because the people who built the tramways
used the same jigs and tools that they used for building wagons, which used that
wheel spacing.


Why did the wagons have that particular odd wheel spacing? Well, if they tried
to use any other spacing, the wagon wheels would break on some of the old, long
distance roads in England , because that's the spacing of the wheel ruts.


So who built those old rutted roads? Imperial Rome built the first long distance
roads in Europe (and England ) for their legions. The roads have been used ever
since.


And the ruts in the roads? Roman war chariots formed the initial ruts, which
everyone else had to match for fear of destroying their wagon wheels. Since the
chariots were made for Imperial Rome , they were all alike in the matter of
wheel spacing. Therefore the United States standard railroad gauge of 4 feet,
8.5 inches is derived from the original specifications for an Imperial Roman war
chariot. Bureaucracies live forever.


So the next time you are handed a Specification/ Procedure/ Process and wonder
'What horse's ass came up with it?' you may be exactly right.


Imperial Roman army chariots were made just wide enough to accommodate the rear ends of two war horses. (Two horses' asses.) Now, the twist to the story:


When you see a Space Shuttle sitting on its launch pad, there are two big
booster rockets attached to the sides of the main fuel tank. These are solid
rocket boosters, or SRBs. The SRBs are made by Thiokol at their factory in Utah
. The engineers who designed the SRBs would have preferred to make them a bit
fatter, but the SRBs had to be shipped by train from the factory to the launch
site. The railroad line from the factory happens to run through a tunnel in the
mountains, and the SRBs had to fit through that tunnel. The tunnel is slightly
wider than the railroad track, and the railroad track, as you now know, is about
as wide as two horses' behinds.


So, a major Space Shuttle design feature of what is arguably the world's most
advanced transportation system was determined over two thousand years ago by the
width of a horse's ass.

A nd you thought being a horse's ass wasn't important? Ancient horse's asses
control almost everything....and CURRENT Horses Asses are controlling everything
else!!

  I’m looking for any knowledge of the D4C. My friend was walking it home after doing a 1 minute job for me. It did a brake lock up while rolling along; the park light stays on no matter where the e-brake lever is set. It has pressure at the filters and controls. When we try to move it the pump whines or cavitates. All other hydraulics work OK. We are in the process of getting a manual. It acts like it is not getting pressure to the brake release for some reason. I'm asking this here because you just never know who has been there done that and we could narrow down our investigation till the manual arrives.
Dave

   2 things I need a bit of help on. I am in the process of putting sealed bearings, a newer smaller in size rectifier in my ST Head and also removing the doghouse. The rectifier is not labeled which makes it hard for the non electrical types. The spades have a pattern to them 3 are orientated to each other and one is at a 90deg to the rest. What is the secret code for the Z1 Z2 F1(U4) F2R(U3) to this pattern?

 

Next question; I am planning on putting a Leece-Neville 110-555JHO 160 amp alternator on my generator setup. It is a new one I purchased on eBay and it is not in my hands yet. My information obtained from the internet on this alternator so far has got me confused. I have 2 Prestolite PDF files for the specs on this unit and one says "Rotation direction=Bi-Directional" the other says "Rotation=Clockwise" What is the best way to verify what it really is?.....Thanks!!!
Dave

I am debating using 12v fan vs a mechanical fan for cooling. My question is does someone make a 220V to 12V regulated charger that will maintain one battery, and also output larger amperage if you wanted to charge a bank of them? I know of the losses I just need a 12V system for cooling and if I needed to top off a stack of batteries it would do it.
Dave