Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - bitsnpieces1

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 16
31
Waste Motor Oil / Re: Waste Oil Purifier
« on: July 31, 2007, 02:06:30 PM »
  Doug ;
  I'm not sure if wastewater/water polymer flocculants would work in oils since they're designed to be soluble in water not oils.  However they are other types that could be soluble in oil. 
  One way to think of these is:
A wastewater polymer flocculant is like a long spring, the contaminant particles get part of themselves wedged in the coils and after enough get snagged the particle will settle out.  Bentonite is a clay, like a chunk of of a porous rock.  Things tend to stick to it and then settle out.  This is why clays (and activated carbon) are really good at pulling out the stuff that makes you sick to your stomach, it pulls the junk(bacteria/poison) out of your stomach contents, isolates it,  and prevents it from affecting you.  There are other flocculants like Iron Chloride;  this one reacts with the contaminate to add an iron atom to the material which then is heavy enough to settle out. 
  The powder the guy was adding could be something that would attach to the water molecules in the hot oil and cause it to seperate out.  Calcium Oxide (burnt lime) will do this by chemically reacting with the water and then settling out (pulling particulates with it). 
  Three types of processes were used by us:
1) Physical trapping (polymer, bentonite).
2) Chemically trapping (hydrated lime).  Used in water plants.
3) Chemically reacting (burnt lime, Iron Chloride).

32
Engines / Re: Oil cooling for Listeroids?
« on: July 26, 2007, 07:25:31 PM »
  I remember back in the mid to late '60s, car manufacturers tried using 100% antifreeze in some car engines, apparently to eliminate water from the cooling system  and hence the rust involved.  The problem was that antifreeze doesn't transfer heat (into it from the block or out of it in the radiator) as well as water so they had to enlarge all of the block passages and enlarge the radiators almost 50%.  And they still would run hot.    Anyone else remember anything like that?   I was thinking that using antifreeze instead of water should help get the block temp. up, still would need a larger radiator.  Should function just like water in a thermosiphon, just at a higher temp.  Also, they have the new nontoxic antifreeze to use.  I don't know how combustible it would be, but, probably nowhere near oil.   

33
General Discussion / Re: Porn in the group
« on: July 08, 2007, 01:09:14 PM »
  For those wanting to help admin,  When you are logged in there is a spot labeled "report to moderator" near the bottom right corner of each post.  Just click on that and the moderator will be notified of the post and can check and block/exclude it all.  This can be done by anyone, no need for special permissions.

34
  Check "Internal Fire .com".  Give a small donation ($5, $10) via paypal and you get to access their library of scanned manuals.  Included are several for the S-O-M, which include schematics for the electrics. 
http://www.internalfire.com/


35
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lubrication oil
« on: April 21, 2007, 01:05:16 PM »
  An old Florida Cracker farmer friend of my fathers runs a John Deere 2 lung diesel tractor.  He never changes the oil.  He changes the oil filter and tops up the oil religiously.  Whenever he cranks it up it will run for most of a full day.  The engine burns almost no oil, about the only loss is in the filter change.  He has done this for decades and has had no trouble with the engine.  The oil looks like black ink but doesn't seem to harm anything.  I would almost bet that the carbon is on the order of individual atoms.  Sorta like soot from a smoky fire. 

36
Generators / Re: A different combination: Deutz.
« on: April 20, 2007, 01:33:21 AM »
  I've thought about this before.  how about using CV joints instead of U-joints.  They will handle a much larger angle and don't have the speed up/speed down problem.  So you eliminate the speed variation.   

37
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: My not so quiet Changfa 195
« on: April 18, 2007, 01:47:36 PM »
http://sporttruck.com/howto/p9431_image_large.jpg 
  I looked at this from suggestion by lev-l-lok and it looks like it might work.  Go to the right side of the picture.  In the bottom right corner is a plastic looking 90 degree bend, above that is what should be the silencer.  It has a look about it that is the same as our silencers. 

38
Listeroid Engines / Re: A 6/1 Versus the Hobart
« on: April 17, 2007, 07:28:37 PM »
  If the contactor indeed has two seperate coils. it's possible that you have a contactor that has two sets of contacts for the motor, one for a starting winding and one for a run winding.  This sort of setup would have a start winding that draws a lot more amps than the run winding. 
  It's also possible that the start coil pulls power from the line feeding the motor and the run coil pulls power from the generator side.  The advantage of the generator side pull would be that if anything happened to the generator output the entire unit would shut down as the run coil drops out. 

39
Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: My not so quiet Changfa 195
« on: April 17, 2007, 06:32:13 PM »
  We had various size Rootes type blowers at work and their intake bark could be worse than their exhaust bark without muffling.  They were outfitted with intake silencers that weren't all that different than the exhaust mufflers.  Since this type of blower is made in all kinds of sizes, say, 1-2 cfm to 1,000 -2,000 cfm a search should be able to turn up something that would work.  Also, since most automotive type superchargers are of that type  you might try a search for an automotive intake system, a junkyard would be a real good place to start.

40
General Discussion / Re: Lube / priming / maintenance / oil
« on: April 17, 2007, 06:08:44 PM »
  The priming they are talking about is for the combustion chamber.  Newer engines like my AC1 have a little plug in the intake just ahead of the cylinder.  You pull the plug, squirt in a little oil and replace the plug then crank.  Very similar to squirting a little gas down the carburetor throat when starting a gasoline engine.  The extra oil will be pulled into the cylinder with the intake air and do two things.  1) provides a fuel rich situation to promote initial ignition,  2) will run down the cylinder/piston walls and help seal the rings to improve the compression.    ** You really don't want to put oil directly into the cylinder and try to crank.   **
  You don't want to put in much because the small clearances would result in hydraulic lockup.  Probably best to add the 10wt drop by drop into the intake manifold while it was turning over.  Only go for about 5-6 drops in a run.  10wt is quite runny to aid in sealing and will ignite more easily. 
  For an engine that has sat for awhile, I'd see about pulling the intake manifold, putting in a 1/2cc of oil and then turning it over very slowly by hand a few times and repeating the process until it will turn easily (oil is distributed around the rings and cylinder).  Then try cranking. 

41
Listeroid Engines / Re: Muffler for Listeroid?
« on: April 12, 2007, 08:44:20 PM »
  kltrider    Sounds great, I'll look into them, also others now that I have a place to start.  I'm thinking about setting some up in the back yard for storage and workshop.  I'll work on an online search for more places.  les

42
Listeroid Engines / Re: Muffler for Listeroid?
« on: April 10, 2007, 11:01:33 PM »
  Thanks!!  That sounds very good for cost.  I'm not really concerned about the floor, I would probably replace it anyway.  Dinged up isn't a problem, just so it doesn't have a bunch of big holes.  Welded on patches and a paint job would be done.  I need the steel structure for security and would probably apply wood siding to match the house.  A roughly equivalent metal shed of the same approx. size as a 20' would be around $1,000.00, leaves room for fixing up. 
  I live in Gainesville, FL. about 120 miles north of Orlando so that would be a doable distance. 
  Again thanks for the info.  Les

43
Listeroid Engines / Re: Muffler for Listeroid?
« on: April 08, 2007, 04:55:45 PM »
How do you like the shipping container for a gen shed.  Been thinking about getting one.  Used are pretty cheap.
Zeke

  I have been thinking of getting some of the containers to build a shop/storage area.  My problem right now is: Just how cheap is "cheap"?  I'm a good distance from a place to get some and am not able to get out and hunt right now.  Any info about price range would be appreciated. 

44
Generators / Re: 220V AC TO 12V DC battery charger?
« on: April 08, 2007, 01:56:21 PM »
  A bit expensive maybe, but gives you a real choice.  Use a 220/240 v VARIAC variable transformer.  Hook the input to your 220v, crank the handle around to120v output, then to any 12v dc charger you want.  Would also give you the option of running any ac voltage you wanted to whatever project you wanted.

45
Other Fuels / Re: Ethanol fuel in 6/1
« on: February 21, 2007, 03:53:50 PM »
  My 2 cents.  I have also considered doing something similar with methane.  Essentially you would have a heavy ruggedly built engine that you would convert to a carbureted, spark ignition engine.  You could take advantage of the long term durability and high compression of the listeroid, just switch from compression ignition to spark ignition.  A DI head would be better than an IDI head.   Just substitute a spark plug for the injector and a timed ignition source for the IP.  Connect the governor linkage to the carb throttle.  With a carb the problems of no lube for an IP go away.  Also could use the IP cam to activate a trigger for the ignition, just need to provide some way to adjust timing. 

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 16