Thanks all for the help.  You have collectively eased my troubled mind.  To answer the question, I actually have measured my grid voltage (test before touch...) both at various 120vAC outlets and at the distribution panel itself and we were right at 120/240 each time.  As I said in my original post, I was more worried about things that have some small electronic board, but maybe no actual power supply (like the LED display on the washer) as I understand that a power supply will regulate the output to whatever is required, 5v, 12v, 120v etc.  I have tried adjusting the output voltage at the AVR via the pot, but mine simply won't go past 223vAC.  Again my thanks. 

Old goat;

Thanks for the reply.  Yes I thought about the reassembly enigma to the point of wondering if someone rebuilt it wrong and had the rack in backwards!  I have not looked at the rack with a mirror to make sure that this is not the case, but I think I am just one of the guys who has a faint witness mark.  Ah well.  Worse things in life I guess.  If you could get those measurements, I would certainly appreciate it.  I am starting to think it may be more of an injector problem (injector clogged, not clean, not spraying properly etc) or a fuel delivery problem ( fuel line cracked and leaking air, not holding a prime etc) than any thing else.  And of course, winter is coming so working in a draughty, unheated barn with wet fuel is always fun you know......

Peter

There is also at least one foundry in Ontario near Kitchener/Waterloo run by some Mennonites who make cast iron parts for wood stoves. I can work on their contact information if needed

Just out of curiosity, why couldn't you use a bicycle speedo that has a cadence function?  It uses a small magnetic pickup and a hall effect sensor to register pedal stroke, but wouldn't that also work as a tach?  Just a thought.

Peter

Watched a couple of videos with multiple Inverter generator hook-ups, and what I want to do seems plausible.  I understand about the two-headed male plug and safety issues, so I may have to butcher my panel and put in my own shielded connectors. I am not sure what series sync is, but the RV AC unit would be 240v, and because the RV plug is only 3 prong (hot, neutral and ground), meaning the hot from both generators is tied together, then the generators must be synced as far as phase angle and frequency goes.  I am thinking that I am going to have to tear the front panel off my little generator and have a closer look.  As I said earlier, it makes no economic sense at all that a company like Honda or Yamaha would spend the time and effort to make a small number of generators different for the Canadian market, so I am pretty sure the electronics are the same.  Now putting a decal over the missing Twin-tech holes - that I can see, and a couple of shielded banana plugs wouldn't be too hard to source, so I may have another project for my PHD (projects half done) list.  Thanks for all the input and Aloha (hope I am using that in the right context Casey ).

Peter

Casey - not sure if you are being humorous or condescending, so I will presume humorous.  They wouldn't grid tie, because the generators have to be electrically tied together before they are started.  No way to sync them to an outside source (unless you want to do the old two light bulb approach and that is something I personally am not about to do).  As far as sustainable, like I said in the first post, it fulfills a need here on the farm, and the chance to use two smaller generators for an occasional RV trip seems like a better idea than trying to drag the 12/2 along. I have sustainable covered.  I am trying for convenience now.

Hi all.  Here's hoping that the electrical geniuses here can help me out.  I own a Yamaha EF2000is inverter generator.  It works great and fills a need here on the farm.  We are contemplating buying an older 5th wheel and one of the projects i am looking into is being able to supply power to it when we are not at a camp site.  To that end, I have seen that in the states, you can buy these suitcase style inverter generators that can be synced together (Honda and Yamaha both have that ability), but in Canada, I presume the CSA has not drank the kool-aid and we cannot get these sync-capable gen sets.  A quick check of the on-line schematic shows that the syncing ports are really just taps off the power outlets

http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/YamahaEF2000iS1600WattInverterGeneratorWiringDiagram1.jpg  (number 6 is the syncing port)

so my question is....could I just make up a two headed 3 prong 15a plug that feeds a 3 prong 30a RV plug and be good to go?  Do these kind of inverter generators automatically do the "master/slave" thing and self sync/self load control (presuming of course that the two sets are hooked together electrically BEFORE they are started)?  It looks to me like this is exactly what happens, but then again, the referenced schematic may be missing a few components, and not be telling the whole story.  I cannot find a schematic for the big box of squirrels they call a control unit (number 15 on the schematic), or the sync cable, (but the on-line pictures don't show any kind of control box, just a cable attached to a plug) so I have no way of knowing what proprietary secrets are going on in there.  It almost seems too good to be true.  Any words of wisdom or advice are welcome before I go and let the magic smoke out of a couple of thousand dollars worth of generators.

Peter

I am not sure I have to do too much adjustment to the rpm as the unloaded generator is running right in at 61.3 Hz  Thats okay.  It is the lower voltage that has me concerned.  Like I said earlier, I thought 120 V was the N.A. standard, and this puts out 110-ish (less if under load).  That is fine for a purely resistive load, but as soon as a motor gets involved (think sump pump or furnace fan), I am wondering if I shouldn't have more volts.