Thanks guys, I havent pieced everything together yet but think maybe bolts came loose on crankshaft weights? Found one weight laying on the floor by itself.

Engine has over 7000 hours on it, I put an hour meter on in 2011 it shows 3600 hours. I installed the engine in 2008 so ran 3 years before hour meter.We live off grid and also make Bio diesel so it gets used alot.

My friend Troy at Eco-Diesel in Lethbridge Alberta has another one waiting for me.Hope to be back in business by the weekend.

I just had the engine cover off a week ago to check the oil sumps for signs of casting sand. I usually rotate the flywheels and check for issues. Non were found.It was running fine this morning came back an hour later to this.

I rigged mine up to a temp switch that activated a solonoid used on car powered door locks. Worked great I have some photos if youre interested.

I cant say for sure the cranks were caused by overspeeding. I'm thinking they were an oiler problem that I have now cured. Also the first one I found some casting sand.
So today did an oil change cleaned up all connections on the governer linkage. I adjusted the nut/clevis in a turn or so to tighten up that part. Everything ran fine for about 2 hours then away it went! Full speed! So i just took the linkage apart again and I noticed the rack itself would bind if it went to far. It seemed to have a ridge of oil hardened on one end . polished that up and seems okay so far.

So the rectifier i use is from the telephone company. You can feed it 110 or 220(up to240) at 50-60hz. It rectifies it to 58 volt DC 30 amps. If set on float it will start backing off amps at about 54 volts. If set to equalize it will hold at 57 volts for a determined time.

So if if I set the output to 29.5 amps (which I do) thats about 1711 watts.  So with breaker off I set the Lister to 650 rpm ,generators at 120 volts measured at the gen shed. Its about 300 feet to battery shed. I've checked voltage drop over that distance its very minimal I think I used #6 cable

Ok, turn the breaker on the Lister goes from 650 rpm to 475 rpm! And smokes like crazy. Now after the intial start I think the rectifier has capacitors that charge, because its a real surge at first. But the lister wont recover from 475 rpm it will keep losing power until I think frequency gets to low and kicks off rectifier. Then Lister will speed up and try again.   But If I up my starting rpm to about 680 it will usually carry it and run about 580 I think thats terrible inefficent to be getting only 1700 watts.

My gen head has AVR on it. Now I only have checked the 118-119 volts in the gen shed. But it sends out 240 volt to the battery shed. If the lower voltage isnt rising with rpm then you wouldnt think the higher voltage would rise? So that should tell me the AVR is working.

I adjusted my rpms under load , havent tried setting them with no load. There does seem to be some sloppy connections on the linkage. I guess I would need a weaker spring?  Stronger would make it run even faster right?

Not alot to go by but I'm wondering if its not 32 volt?

I currently have a 5 kw Chinese generator coupled to my single cylinder Listeroid. It has been nothing but trouble, slip rings wore through and had to be replaced, brush holder springs have all broke, bearing went, and finaly housing broke complete length of generator, had it cast welded only lasted about a week. So I brazed it myself seems to be holding good so far. Less than 5 years old but used alot!

Anyway although its 5 kw I only use 3 kw to power my rectifier to charge batteries. So now I have a chance to get a Stamford 7.5kw generator. Will my Listeroid run it fine if only using 3 kw? Both are about same size physically both 1800 rpm. What do you think?

Hi Everyone,

 I'm looking for an injector line for a Lister CD. The line runs from the pump to the injector.

 Mine rubbed a pinhole in the side.  Anyone ever weld an injector line? Or will I be the first to try?... Thanks

I have a GTC brand 6/1 run mostly on Bio diesel. I use it to run a 5kw generator as well as use it for the bio diesel  production. It sees alot of work about 200 -250 hours a month year around.
  About a year ago we put a new crank in it after rod bearing went and we attributed it to sand, so cleaned it up good and painted crankcase everything seemed good until last week.  Engine had stopped and discovered rod bearing had turned about 1/4 inch(probably enough to cover oil hole) then siezed.

 Soo we are trying to figure out what went wrong. I'm getting lots of local opinions so thought I would get professional opinions.

 I change oil once a month, so thats 200-250 hours. Some say thats too long, others say no thats ok for a stationary engine in a clean environment running at 600-650 rpm.

 But I am using Walmart 30 wt oil. Now we checked all the numbers and the oil meets or exceeds most every oil requirement out there. But I'm wondering if it meets requirements when its brand new but after a few hours it may go downhill fast.So by 200 hours its not even oil any longer..just a fluid.

So on my back up engine I'm using Shell Rotella 15/40 wt.

  Are my crankshaft problems oil related or? Rod bearing related?.. Maybe I should be changing rod bearings annually?  Synthetic oil maybe?