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Messages - listeroil

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151
Generators / Re: How to remove rotors from tapered crankshafts
« on: March 11, 2009, 07:59:38 PM »
The usual way to remove a rotor from a tapered shaft is to extract it using a piece of rod passed down ihe centre of the rotor shaft and screwing in a bolt on top of the rod. Unscrew the threaded shaft in the rotor and you should see the extraction thread. You have to make sure the extraction rod is small enough to go through the thread on the crankshaft.

Mick

152
Generators / Re: Lister 2.5K Generator Control
« on: February 22, 2009, 08:48:45 PM »
Andypc


I thinkthis diagram should be allright for your SOM all the information I got from my genuine 1967 2.5kw SOM manual. All this information applies to the later N type alternators. All of the components should fit in the top box.







The Main field resistor Aux field resistor and Charge resistor are available from http://www.arcol.co.uk/index.php Their PB range are the same as Lister used.  This is a picture of a 12 ohm charge resistor from a 4.5kw SOM here is a picture of a 4.5 top box with charge main and economy resistor fitted on the back face.
.





This is the Economy Resistor they also available from arcol in their PE range



The top box measures 13 inches long 12 inches wide and 7 inches high it is mounted to the alternator with rubber mountings I use these mini exhaust rubbers  1.50gbp each from my local motor factor. It is inportant to fit an earth braid bond from the top box to the alternator frame.



The choke is the same size as a 100va transformer you should be able to get one easy these 2 are very similar to the original one

http://www.maplin.co.uk/free_uk_delivery/100VA_Transformer_Kit_3728/100VA_Transformer_Kit_3728.htm 

http://uk.farnell.com/dagnall-electronics/d3067/transformer-100va-2-x-12v/dp/1166191






Mick

153
Generators / Re: Lister 2.5K Generator Control
« on: February 02, 2009, 05:02:36 PM »
I have just spoken with my mate who is an electronics engineer. He says that the 2 windings are wound together and if they are wound round a core of the same dimensions as the lister core it should perform the same.
I have a 1951 2.5kw SOM in storage and will go over and measure and take a picture of the choke in the next few days if you like.
The other thing he told me was that the bridge rectifier should be rated at 500 volts because it is connected to the AC side of things and it was impossible to tell from the wiring diagram what voltage is going to it. Unfortunatly my 2.5kw SOM is not running at the moment so I cannot take any voltage readings at the bridge rectifier.

Mick

154
Generators / Re: Lister 2.5K Generator Control
« on: February 02, 2009, 02:02:45 AM »
Andypc

The value of the main field resistor is 15 ohms 4 amps
The value of the auxillary field resistance is 3.5 ohms 2.9 amps
A modern 25 amp 50 volt bridge rectifier will do the job
The current transformer is more of a problem I dont think you will get one of the shelf but perhaps you can make one yourself.
There are 2 types listed for the N type alternator and they are called choke in the specs.
The first one is 86 turns 16swg with tappings at 0. 74. 80. 86.
The second one is Primary winding 48 turns 15swg tapping at 45.   Secondary winding 103 turns tapping at 96 turns.
Both these are listed as suitable for the N type alternator. These are for 230 volt operation. A 50 va transformer could probably be striped down and rewound to do the job.

Mick

155
Lister Based Generators / Re: Coolant pump
« on: January 26, 2009, 03:36:20 PM »
Somian
If you are intending to use a shoveit radiator you will definitly require a fan of some description a chevette radiator is a bit small. When I used a rover 820 rad I had to run the fan all the time. The radaitors that the other guys are using are massive compared to the rover one I used. A bigger rad is a good idea and you can blank it off if it works too well as the other guys have said. Just one more point consider fiting a thermostat as they really help.

Mick

156
Listeroid Engines / Re: Lister cooling
« on: January 24, 2009, 07:18:10 PM »
Genuine Lister engines with radiators were not pressurised. However CS engines used in marine instalations were tested to a pressure of 100psi  by lloyds insurance inspectors. The problem with pressurising a CS is the head gasket. Water seeps out of the fibre layer in between top and bottom copper layer on both genuine and Indian copper head gaskets. There are new Composite with Metal Fire Rings head gaskets being manufactured by   http://www.gasketstogo.com/Listeroid.htm  that appear to be very good. A radiator with a pump and pressurised water system is the way to go IMHO. The reason I sugest a water pump and pressurised system is because in my system I need a pump to pump the coolant round the vegoil heating system. And it also means you dont have to mount the radiator high just a header tank above the cylinder head. Pressurising the system means there should be no water evaporation.

Mick

157
Lister Based Generators / Re: Coolant pump
« on: January 24, 2009, 02:41:29 PM »
Radiator cooled Lister cs worked on thermosiphon  and had a fan run from a pulley on the crankshaft.

When I fitted a rover 820 radiator to my 8/1 engined startomatic I found I needed to run the 12vdc electric radaitor fan all the time.

158
Lister Based Generators / Re: Coolant pump
« on: January 19, 2009, 04:45:52 PM »
I have bought a water pump kit from   http://www.stationaryengineparts.com/water-cooling-2268-0.html    and it appears to be of very good quality but you need to drill and tap the crankcase to mount it on an original 8/1  engine. It just manages to fit under the fuel control solenoid if you screw on a 3/4 BSP 90 degree elbow to the pump outlet instead of the straight pipe that comes with it. I am  happy with this kit it comes with the offset crankshaft pulley water pump and cast iron bracket that fits on the indian listeroid engines. I have not got round to fitting this pump yet its a lot of pipe work to get the pipes round from one side of the engine to the other side. I cannot coment on its reliability but the pump looks like a copy of the original lister one according to the lister parts book. The central heating pump is not a bad idea it would be cheaper you need less pipe and plumbing fittings because you can fit the pump straight on the the water inlet also you dont have to remove the flywheel to fit the pulley or drill and tap the engine block.

Hope this is of some help    

Mick

159
Lister Based Generators / Re: Start-O-Matic 4.5 KW
« on: November 30, 2008, 10:57:55 PM »
The V belts are B section 105 inches long

Mick

160
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Red Hot
« on: September 29, 2008, 11:56:05 PM »

I have produced a couple of pages from the 1953  6/1 Lister manual which tells you which oil to use. Lister 100% state use heavy duty detergent oil because of the higher sulphur content in the diesel fuel are they wrong. I dont think so. This information remained the same in all the later manuals for the CS engine right up to the latest genuine lister manual I own which was printed in 1982.

On my own setup a 8/1 engined startomatic I use HD30 diesel engine oil and a full flow filter and change the oil every 2 months.
 

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Mick

161
Generators / Re: start-o-matic gen head question
« on: September 07, 2008, 07:50:28 PM »
Third time lucky


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163
Generators / Re: start-o-matic gen head question
« on: September 05, 2008, 10:36:06 PM »
Doug

Here are some prints for you to peruse.






1.The  Alternator is of the self-excited rotating armature type. The armature carries two sets of windings, one the A.C. winding which is connected to a pair of slip-rings and the other the D.C. winding which is connected to a commutator and provides excitation current to the main field system. The alternator also incorporates series starting windings which combine with the D.C. armature winding to act as a series motor for cranking the engine.

This information is from a 1959 Lister manual.

I got a striped down 4.5kw startomatic alternator I decided to have a go at rebuilding it myself. I got as much information about it as I could all of the above and more field coil resistances,  brush sizes, brush material, bearing sizes and worked how it all went back together. There were loads of missing bolts a broken brush holder I tested the resistances worked out which wires went where  i got new brushes made, got the commutator and slip rings skimed, bought new bearings, made a new brush holder from 10mm tufnol rod, bought new BSW and BA nuts  and bolts. I rewired the top box to Lister push button remote control design this does away with the startomatic box and makes life easier for me

Commutator skim   Â     15
Bearings      Â               35
Brushes      Â Â               56
Bolts         Â Â                20
Brush holder      Â          6
Heat shrink   Â               2
Flexible  mountings      6
Relays & Switches   Â Â Â 20
Wire         Â Â                 7
Connectors      Â Â           5
                  Total      172 gbp


Here are some pictures of what I started with but unfortunately I didnt take pictures of the rebuild when I did it but will if anyone is interested.













Mick





164
Generators / Re: start-o-matic gen head question
« on: September 02, 2008, 01:55:07 PM »
If you leave a load conected and spin it up on the starter motor windings it will load up as soon as it starts spining. The start winding starts turning the DC generator which in turn poduces current via the shunt field regulatorto the AC field windings and AC is produced. It sounds to me like theres nothing wrong with yours.

 MICK

165
Lister Based Generators / Re: Start-O-Matic 4.5 KW
« on: July 05, 2008, 09:27:30 PM »
I have replaced the bridge rectifier on my 4.5k start o matic alternator with a 50volt 25amp bridge rectifie out o a 12volt battery charger. It works fine.
Are you changing the brushes if you are you can get them manufactured  a lot cheaper than buying geniune ones
Lister DC brushes cost 16gbp each and you need 4  Lister AC brushes cost 12gbp each and you need 4 You can get them made for about 6 gbp each. The firm I used was  http://www.sdcarbons.co.uk and I was very happy with their service. If you need brush dimensions and specs let me know.

Mick

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