Thank you, thank you for the fantastic video. That is absolutely wonderful!!!!!!

The least I could do. We are taking her out for a few weeks now the canals are quieting down a little and we have some water at last .

Hi, to complete the original call for help, which was answered admirably, thank you - the engine is now back up and running.

I was able to polish out some light scoring of the journal and replaced the bearings using plastigauge to check the clearance which was 3 thou with 6 thou shims fitted both sides.

I torqued up the nuts to 90nm which was what I calculated was their setting when I removed them. I needed an extra small movement to get the holes lined up for the split pins.

The whitworth spanners ( wrenches) and sockets i brought were very useful.

I was able to double check the oil dip stick settings and it was good just at the bottom of the caps with the dippers totally immersed.

The whole sump was cleaned out as was the strainer and the magnet at the end of it ( nothing on it ) I primed the oil pump and checked it operation on running

The biggest challenge was knowledge, confidence and confined space.... the latter manageable despite being in the small engine room on my canal boat.

I now have the confidence to clean out the sump at the required hours ( albeit necessitated draining 10 litres of coolant, removing the starter, alternator and water pump. All no doubt meat and drink to you engineers out there but for this novice a challenge of recording everything and taking a lot of time to double check everything.

Pleasingly the engine fired first turn of the key and settled with not noise to its normal tick over which I let run for the first hour. We then did a small cruise keeping the revs to tick over most of the time.

A huge thanks to all who gave concise common sense advice and guidance and have stayed with me over my ( extended) learning for this work. I feel I know so much more about my engine thanks to your support and encouragement. Sincere thanks, virtual pints all around - sorry warm brown English beer I'm afraid !!

The India engines as shipped usually have one shim each side. The shims are usually .003" Your situation is different as the crank has been ground since it left India and could have been sized with or without shims.
 There are sticky assembly lubes around and any of them do a good job but they are not necessary on a CS.  A bit of oil works while you are asssembling and prior to starting you simply remove the crankcase door and give the rods and mains a squirt of oil.  A problem with India twins, and singles is miss marked dip sticks. Be sure to confirm proper oil level on the rod dippers and remark the dip stick if needed.

Hi thanks for the reply and further advice. When I removed the cap it had .003 shims on the crankcase door side and .00145 on the other side? I suspect as you say the dipstick was marked very conservatively. When I refill it I'll re mark it - what level should i fill to with respect to the rod dippers?

Kind regards

 

First off many thanks Mr Cujet for taking the time to go and take the picture and add the explanation - priceless for me to work with. Then thanks to all the other contributors to date. I'll let you know how I get on in the next  week or so. Again a great group of helpful friendly people, take care.

Nev 

Nev,

I just found a source to reweld and regrind DIESEL crankshafts.  Key words: Diesel crankshaft.  Nobody in MY area will touch a regrind, let alone a reweld on a diesel crankshaft. 

Hillcrestcamshaft.com

Hi,

I know of a place in the UK who can/will regrind the journals but I'm hoping not to have to have that level of intrusion, thanks for the comment.

Hi all,

Not sorted yet as an engineer I contacted got in touch and is visiting a week on Tuesday to have a look ( and a feel) so for now I’ve deferred until an expert gets a look. I am looking to source gaskets for the crankcase door and the water elbows from the cylinders … I’ve dropped a message to Stationary engine parts in the hope they can sell me them or source them.

Sorry it’s not a progressive update and thanks for  engagement so far.

I’ll update when the engineer has had a look !

Thanks again

Nev

Many thanks Listard for your very helpful and detailed reply picking up the issues I asked question on. I will read through a few times to ensure I understand them fully. The last question on taking Percy back to Paul & Tony Redshaw its location sadly too far away, worst case could be the engine going leaving the boat behind !

I'll update but it may be a while  !

Adding to the other reply if you did indeed melt the bearing it is imperative that you clean the crankcase. Personally I would also pull the oil pump and check it for debris  and flush the lines. The Lister technical data specs the  clearances with new parts at .0025"- .003" with allowable wear .003". So, clearance could be as large as .006" and be within the spec to run it,  however I would never let one out of the shop with that much clearance.

Many thanks for the extra I formation and advice…. All very useful. Thank you for taking the time to post.