Apologies gents, I didn't see your responses I've just found the emails in Spam whilst looking for something else, I've now whitelisted the email address.

I have now found out that you were both correct, it is a CW from the flywheel end as I've had it running using a starting handle, it sounds quite sweet, so pretty happy (currently) with the purchase.

But I an still a little confused as to which starter motor I need, as the flywheel runs clockwise from the flywheel end, then I would need a starter motor that spins ACW when viewed from the flywheel, BUT I suspect that when a supplier quotes CW they mean when viewed from the front of the engine, which is the correct way, or am I losing my marbles?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393889850413

I 'think' this is the one I want, but I'm not 100% sure, as to whether I need a spacer is another matter.

So it looks like even if his alternator doesn't have an output we can modify it so it does, next is to get my hands on the tacho to see if that works. When I saw him Sunday he was on about trying to get a Winter mooring Oct-Mar so if he does, even though he's 160 miles away I might be able to get down & do a few jobs, problem is currently we daren't do too much in one go as he has to be able to cruise every day.

Sorry Celsius

Just to close out this part of the story for those who are interested I hate threads that don't have a resolution. On Sunday I travelled down to near Milton Keynes & fitted an electrical sender & gauge, I would have gone with a capillary but wasn't sure of the route, but once installed & he set off again it sits nicely just over 80 degrees. Not sue how accurate it is but that's not the important thing, if 80 is the normal he now has a visual on the not normal.

Thanks for everybody's input.

I have only a very poor image of the sender, I was leaned over a running engine I should have checked it & realised how poor it was.



This is the panel that is in the boat, but we're not sure if it has ever worked with this engine as the anecdotal history says the engine was replaced with a recondition one around 5 years ago, but we don't know if it was of the same type or not.



But nothing works on the panel apart from the stater button & the ignition warning light which is just floating in the back of the panel.

I think as suggested the obvious answer is to remove the existing sender & gauge, by a matched set & get a convertor to go from the large current thread to a more usual one, somebody has suggested it might be 5/8th UNF is that likely?

ST2W nephews engine, no gauges work, he has a Thornycroft panel but nothing is connected. On the outlet manifold on engine he has what looks like a 3 pin temperature sender, I suspected a live, a resistored feed to go back to the panel & a NO switch which closes on hot to put a light on the panel. However putting a meter across all 3 pins in any combination I get no readings at all.

So does anyone know if my assumptions are correct, have a wiring diagram for it & finally where are we likely to get a replacement?

The lift pump is lower left of the engine, it then goes up by hard pipe into a small filter near the air intake which has a bleed screw on it, which we have bled from by manually operating the lift pump, this is the highest point on the circuit. It then drops down via hard pipe(s) to the injectors themselves, we have not touched the injectors. We opened the bleed with the engine running & no diesel came out, which is not what we expected ?