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Messages - mihit

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Just thinking out loud...
Could batteries be suffering low internal resistance? IE voltage good at rest but drop volts when starter is in the circuit?

Can you get an ammeter/clamp meter on the battery lead while trying to start?

Could starter be shorted internally so the circuit is being made across only half the windings? Can you find another starter to swap in and test?

Has the alternator (?) lost it's field/sense circuitry?

I would be keen to know -why- the wiring melted in the first place... is there a short in the alt? Try taking that out of circuit and starting.

I am familiar with the internals of the IP, couldn't tell you for sure, but I'll speculate.
The main doo-dad (spindle that sits inside the collar that is acted on by the toothed governor bar) has two "holes" that are joined by a slanted slot. When at minimum fuelling only the idle hole can flow, when it's WOT both holes are lined up and fuelling along the slot.

At a guess, the options for rebuilding this would be find another collar and move the holes so that fuelling is achieved earlier on the rack, or find another spindle and modify the spacing/shape/width/length of the groove to allow greater fuelling.

But you could just call it a Hit'n'miss lister!

Other option I'm guessing is governor weights, play around with them so it doesn't throw out so easily... depending on how you want/need to load the engine.

What is actually the point in wanting to run so slow? Surely you're sacrificing half or more of the HP it would have...

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: couple of old SOMs
« on: May 04, 2021, 09:05:55 AM »
Yep. Auction sites can be dangerous. Some people asking way over the odds. (And some people paying it!)

I don't know about the startomatics. Looks very similar to CS.
Listard, does that indicate chrome bore? There was some plate/patent number which would confirm that.

Rusty... and as a non-runner it's really up to you what it's worth. I suppose if it spins over freely that's a plus. Down on compression could just be stuck rings or valve. Seller seems pretty honest and up-front. I wont be bidding against ya on this one!

Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 04, 2021, 08:39:03 AM »
And in case the cylinder is glazed from too much lazy running, a method I came across the other day was to pick up a garden sprayer full of water, and once it's up to temp and idling, start spraying a mist into the intake, basically until it bogs, then back it off some.
This is the method behind water/meth injection.
It should start throwing out a whole lot of garbage, you just have to keep spraying until the exhaust is clear.

Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 04, 2021, 08:34:51 AM »
Everyone else has already covered all the things that jumped to my mind.

The first thing would be cure that intermittent spark. And also remember you want a GOOD spark. If it's weak outside the cylinder it could be 5/8ths of nothing when it's under compression.

There were plans floating around the internet for a magneto "recharger".
Ideally you could find a known good spare to test if it is in fact that, but also gap and points as mentioned.

Engines only need a few things to run: Air, fuel, compression, and spark (at the right time)

General Discussion / Re: Engine paint
« on: April 28, 2021, 05:25:20 AM »
From my notes:
I got some matched at a paint shop Brunswick Green is correct, RGB 27,77,62

But could substitute Hunter Green 53,94,59 or British Racing Green 1,66,37

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