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Messages - mihit

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6
61
Waste Motor Oil / Re: 3/4" needle valve
« on: June 15, 2021, 08:00:28 AM »
Is there a whole question in your post ??

What's the application?

62
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1
« on: June 15, 2021, 07:55:27 AM »
Rural Whangarei, but I do get around a bit.

63
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Iister CS 6/1 electrical problems
« on: June 15, 2021, 07:54:43 AM »
It sounds like whatever is sending the signal to open/close the solenoid...

Possibly weak spring on a throwout / centifugal switch?
You can of course bodgy it so solenoid is energised by seperate switch.

64
Engines / Re: Gaskets - how thick?
« on: June 12, 2021, 08:35:41 AM »
For what in particular? Water jacket doors? Plumbing connections?

"Beer box" thickness has worked everywhere I've used it ;)

I keep a range of various "oil safe" gasket card but couldn't tell you off the top of my head. 0.4mm and 0.75mm maybe , and yes quite a few times a literal beer box.

One of my bug-bears is poorly fitting gasket surfaces. I bought a recipro pump a few years back "reconditioned" (reconditioned by Dulux, as we say here - just painted! Asswipes.)
Any way, the valve cover came with a 1/4" rubber gasket, cranked down hard, which should have rung alarm bells,
I chucked up the cover in the lathe and skimmed it flat, and took to the mating face on the housing with a file, sealed up beaut with beer-box after that.

You don't really need to overthink it, gaskets -usually- aren't used to set tolerances. (Under lister CS head is an exception)

65
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1
« on: June 12, 2021, 08:21:17 AM »
Nice find. I'm still looking for a good CS.

What are you wanting the groovy startomatic flywheels for? You driving stuff?

66
Petteroids / Re: Lister Petter LPW3A rebuild
« on: May 15, 2021, 07:01:17 AM »
Picture speaks a thousand words...
Are you trying to lift it up, or slide it out?
All bearing caps removed? Any movement at all?

67
There is a co-gen forum located at
http://www.microcogen.info/index.php
which may be of interest to you

Looks very interesting ,thankyou!

68
Petteroids / Re: Lister Petter LPW3A rebuild
« on: May 14, 2021, 05:28:33 AM »
Not specifically, but I've pulled down more than a few engines.
What are ya after?

69
Petteroids / Re: New to me, AVA2
« on: May 14, 2021, 02:38:26 AM »
Some photos.

70
I had to look it up. CHP = Combined Heat and Power.

I really like the idea, since heat is typically considered a waste/byproduct, and normally just dumped...

71
Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 10, 2021, 07:55:31 AM »
Haha.
Yeah, well. Wikipedia link here:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engine)

Talks about the vaporisation and steam.
Also it says: "...may be attributable to the water gas shift reaction, in which CO and H2O shift to form CO2 and H2"
 - that is, Carbon Monoxide and Water transform to Carbon Dioxide and Hydrogen...

But nope, beggared if I can find the link I read, searching my history bar turns up naught. But you can be assured I'll post it when I find it again.

72
Listeroid Engines / Re: Ran the beast today !
« on: May 10, 2021, 07:41:00 AM »
An apropriately sized thermostat + thermosiphon setup should have no worries keeping that cool.
30 gallons?? I'm metric but that sounds like enough!

I have seen passive radiator setups on old listers - where hot water gets pushed out the top to run down over cooling plates back into a trough/reservoir.

Next for efficiency would be a belt drive viscous fan and radiator setup, but that might be over-cooling for something that's not  run at heavy load all the time, but if you're boiling off a 30 gal tank, could be just the thing

73
Waste Motor Oil / Re: My new "Roger Sanders" style waste oil burner
« on: May 07, 2021, 10:47:32 PM »
I know it's a different application, and requires compressed air source (only 15psi or so) but I use a "KWIKY" burner in my metalcasting furnace. Very economical, absolutely clean burn once up to temperature and can go from cold to 1500 in about 10 mins. It's not fussy on what you feed it, I siphon out of a settled 5-gal tank  of mixed waste oil.
I have been playing with the idea of adapting it to a space-heater set up, perhaps building a smaller one, given how many BTUs it can throw out.

74
Engines / Re: Museum Lister D problems
« on: May 07, 2021, 01:24:12 AM »
I have not heard of the method of spraying small mists of water into a running engine to de-glaze it but only to de-coke it as the mist of water turns to steam and that is what loosens the carbon. I can't see how that method would work on the de-glazing but I am always happy to learn.

I can't say I understand the science myself, I'll try and find the link.

As I understand it water injection a) cools the intake charge giving denser (more) air, and b) once in the chamber splits into oxygen and hydrogen to promote more complete combustion.
Maybe hotter running breaks the glaze allowing the rings to scrape it?

75
Petteroids / New to me, AVA2
« on: May 05, 2021, 05:53:07 AM »
I picked up an AVA2. It's actually the one referenced in this thread: https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/petter-ava2-12hp-diesel-came-home-with-me-today-look.79162/

I didn't realise it hadn't been run in 10 years!

Anyway. Dismantled, cleaned up and freed 1 of the IPs that was pretty much rusted in place, both injectors, the oil pump, drained the water and sludge out of crankcase and filled with good clean oil, bled all oiling lines, primed all fuel lines, checked injectors... everything to do so it should run.

I'm in the process of fitting a flywheel and starter to it, as it doesn't have the 4:1 gears some of them have for a starting handle, and I haven't managed to spin it hard or fast enough to start by hand. There is the 2:1 reduction for the camshaft, but adapting  a handle to that seems like more work than the starter and unfortunately I don't have a suitable pony motor.

I will post photos later.

But my question for now, if anyone knows, is what should the injector nozzle recession (?) be...

I picked up 2 different thickness copper washers (only one injector had one fitted. They also have an aluminium heat-shroud, which I would think would be enough to seal up on) and fitted them both with the ones matching the one I pulled out, not sure how good this is going to get the spray into the cylinder though as it may be rebated too far?
Also not sure how or why the need for copper between the injector, the alloy, and the head. Could/should I do away with it?

Being air-cooled I can see the sense in heat-sinking the injectors, it's just not a set-up I've come across before.

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