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Messages - mihit

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46
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: lister single cylinder dumper engine
« on: July 25, 2021, 12:00:44 AM »
Sounds like overflow/spill rail for injector. Not entirely needed you could just hang a can to collect any leaked diesel.
You could google for suppliers but it's low/no pressure so if you have some refrigeration/ copper tubing and bend/flaring tool you could make one.
Or cut it off injector-side of the bend and hoseclamp a flexible pipe/tube to it.

47
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1 Lister injector specifications
« on: July 24, 2021, 10:54:59 PM »
Some injectors have a feeler pin which you put your finger or thumb on while it's in engine to check function.
They should definitely go off with a "creak"

48
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1 Lister injector specifications
« on: July 24, 2021, 10:53:31 PM »
Following on, they're very easy to dismantle and clean.
Be sure to bleed the injector lines before trying to run, as above by cracking the flare nut at the injector, turning over diesel should squirt out the joint.
If it doesn't squirt there's possibly something wrong with the pump/lifter. (also very easy to dismantle and clean)

The injection pattern isn't as enthusiastic as a modern injector but should definitely be a mist not a dribble.

The next culprit will be spill timing.

49
General Discussion / Re: A Pulley On Each Flywheel?
« on: July 24, 2021, 10:44:38 PM »
As to the original question, a belt each side is almost preferable, balancing loads on the main crank bearing.

50
General Discussion / Re: A Pulley On Each Flywheel?
« on: July 24, 2021, 10:42:51 PM »
I love lineshafting, it's my current off-grid mission for my 12-2 Petter.

Before even electric motors factories would have had steam,coal, water wheel or diesel plant to spin a main shaft (usually vertical up several stories) which would then drive line shafts for each floor, which would then drive lay shafts for each machine.
"Clutch" was a pulley loose on the shaft, next to the fixed-pulley and engaged by "shipper rods"

Flat belts are a very effective means of HP and more importantly torque transfer. I believe they're more efficient transferring energy (less transmission loss)  than HV power pylons when the distance is less than 30 miles!

Just imagine 60 miles of belts and flywheels from a local dam to your shed!

51
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: 6/1 Lister injector specifications
« on: July 18, 2021, 02:08:37 AM »
I'm not sure what specifications? If it's intact and one of the bryce/ bosch types then it's pretty much clean-up and run it.
I do have an exploded diagram on the PC but don't recall mention of crack pressure or anything. Either measure/mark current adjustment or don't tutu with it!

As for pintle sizes angles etc, if it's that far gone you'll be better finding a good one IMO

52
General Discussion / Re: Bernard Petrol
« on: July 16, 2021, 10:47:21 PM »
Oh well. It followed me home.
Turns out when he said he'd "had it running recently" - that was a few years ago!

Checked it over, all things move as they should, new gapped plug, freed up stuck float valve (flooding) and tutu with the governor mech (which still needs work), un-tutu'd the dead-spark wiring, made a crank handle and spun her up, she's alive!
I might even get to posting a video oneday.

Will have to either tear into it to fix existing throttle arrangement, or just add a lawnmower type cable/friction lever. Will put it under load and see what she does.

53
General Discussion / Re: Utility trailer
« on: July 16, 2021, 10:41:00 PM »
OK, Well I'll just go against the grain and say, since your engine is rotating, power anything that rotates off that, via belts etc. You can shield/guard the belts, or just use the safety feature between your ears and not put yourself in harms way.

Next best/safest source is pnumatic/compressed air.
Depending what engine you get, you could pull the injector/pump to one cylinder and run that as a compressor - alternatively you can probaby pick up a belt-drive compressor head cheaply as they seem to be everywhere now.
There is a disadvantage in double or triple converting energy. For example an engine, reciprocating motion, giving rotation, to generate electricity, to rotate a motor, to drive a piston compressor (reciprocating again!)... Waste/conversion loss at every step.

If you can find an old Miller "roughneck" weld/genhead, that takes care of those two things in one go.

The advantage with pnuematic tools is that they'll generally be field servicable. If a rotor or stator burns out, it's a trip to town to order a part to wait a month...

54
Listeroid Engines / Re: Aluminium Piston
« on: July 09, 2021, 08:09:33 AM »
On the smaller CS, I've taken the barrel off to get at the piston. You need to put gaskets/shims under it to set the deck height anyway.

As to which piston, I'd guess the larger CS are still splash lubed, and I'd guess the bottom ring on the 4-groove is an oil control/wiper ring as well.
I would say either would do, but that's just a guess on my part.

What are you looking to achieve moving to a lighter piston?

55
Generators / Re: How to Choose a Gen Head
« on: July 09, 2021, 08:02:10 AM »
Welcome. 230VAC, you must be in the developed world?

Foremost my recomendation is to not double-convert energy. If you're running a diesel engine, to run a generator, to run an electric motor - that is wasteful. Where you can, try and drive off your prime mover, obviously this isn't so applicable with domestic fridges and such, but is something to keep in mind.

I'm always in favour of de-coupling, either by belt, clutch or  cush-drive... Less stress on the crank and starting.

Anything is possible to fabricobble together, given the time, money and ingenuity. so if you want to direct-drive that's always an option.

LR1 is about 5HP so you're realistically going to drive a 3kW head. Enough for a sensible "small home"
The SR2 will do about 11kW. Enough for the home, and the workshop :D

56
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Iister CS 6/1 electrical problems
« on: June 21, 2021, 07:11:04 AM »
Post photos if you're able.

Modern relays (fathered by old ones) have five Pins. a Normally Open contact (NO); a Normally Closed contact (NC); Earth; Hot/Positive; and a trigger (positive)
Hopefully this works:

otherwise this image here:
https://aampglobal.zendesk.com/hc/article_attachments/360052933191/mceclip0.png

In your case, if it is wired backwards, it would be a case of swapping whatever wires are on pins 87 and 87a

57
Engines / Re: Noisy CS 8/1
« on: June 18, 2021, 09:29:00 PM »
In place of a stethoscope, the handle of a screwdriver can be held up to your ear or temple, with the blade pushed against parts... obviously this only works when you don't have to put your head in the flywheels!

58
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS Crank Keyway: 14mm not 9/16"
« on: June 18, 2021, 09:17:15 PM »


Mihit, these tapered Gib Keys are potentially different to what you might see in motors & drives?  In that they aren't held "down" by a grub screw but by the taper.  So some of the "fit" is in the force needed to hammer them home until they are "tight enough"  If you watch a vid or two of the Indian blokes assembling them with a big whack from a big sledgehammer - you'll see what I mean.  It wouldn't surprise me if they are expanding in two dimensions under that force

Just a thought.  Cheers
Yeah I know what he's referring to. I've pulled and refitted lister flywheels that probably hadn't been off for at least half a century.
But that's where the engineer's blue comes in. Good bearing surface, no excessive force required.

59
General Discussion / Bernard Petrol
« on: June 18, 2021, 09:11:02 PM »
I'd never heard of them, but the cobber over the road has this tucked away in his shed...

10HP @ 2000 RPM.

60
Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: CS Crank Keyway: 14mm not 9/16"
« on: June 15, 2021, 08:34:05 AM »
I don't think I've measured a key or a keyway in my life!

I Just hand-fit (file and emery paper) and there should be no discenable slop. This goes for everything from high-torque (like large flywheel) applications to fast electric motors.

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