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Messages - mihit

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General Discussion / Re: NEWBIE - LISTER OWNER
« on: March 20, 2022, 05:42:59 AM »
I've built the 48v Lifepo4 battery system from 16 cells in series. But all my knowledge has come from the internet not college, they do say ignorance is bliss!

LiPo is a whole new kettle of fish! There are a couple people on here who have done SBC/arduino controllers and such for them, it's all way over my head.
But I do know that they need to be balanced, and charged correctly, or they tend to get a bit explodey...

As to your original query, I don't know the SOMs particularly, but an -alternator-  does require a field/reference voltage. 22V should be more than enough to excite the field and create output.
The things to check then would be your diode bridge/rectifier. And for any shorts to ground.
Your batteries could also be poked, with low internal resistance.

A -generator- should output voltage all the time, again you can check for shorts to ground, particularly clean up the commutator and slip rings.

Everything else / Re: Battery Series/Parallel connection guidance
« on: February 04, 2022, 09:49:25 PM »
I make "bus-links" by hammering 1/2" copper pipe flat and drilling required holes. Good for a couple of hundred amps. 3/4" pipe would give you a bit more again.
You can then insulate with heatshrink or tape.

And I would make them all the same length/ gauge, but it probably isn't neccessary.

Lister Based Generators / Re: Help with 41.25 KVA Lister generator
« on: December 29, 2021, 05:38:53 AM »
Would have to load it to see if the voltage comes down... otherwise adjust by resistor as mentioned above.

Generators / Re: Light flicker vs Engine RPM
« on: December 29, 2021, 05:32:04 AM »
You may have the voltage, but what are the Hz doing?
What kind of lights are you running? I would think incadescents wouldn't flicker. LEDs may need a seperate driver. Fluros are notorious for it, even on mains supply.

If I have it the right way round in my head, on my miller genset, you set Hz by RPM and voltage with a resistor to the control circuit.
Is the gen head de-coupled, can you change the pulley/drive ratio?

You could put capacitors across the output to smooth it.

The other thing (when we were wiring fluros in a 3 phase shop) was to run the lights on alternate phases so that they "overlap" and provide a reasonably constant illumination. Not sure how you'd go about that with your set up.

Lister Based Generators / Re: ST2 starter battery replacement
« on: November 25, 2021, 07:38:56 AM »
Fair comment.
But I'd rather fix the thing.
Although the losses may be low in converting rotation-ac-dc, especially with the new switchmode  chargers... it's still a loss,
...and I don't have the luxury of much "overhead"
...and the "local" store is a fair waysaway
...and it's one more "thing" to go wrong... I can re-wind an alternator and solder up a diode bridge if I have to. Beggared if I could fix the circuitry in a microchip controlled charger.

Other Slow Speed Diesels / Re: Another Bamford
« on: November 24, 2021, 07:29:12 AM »
That'll buff out :P

Listeroid Engines / Re: Engine Timing
« on: November 24, 2021, 07:27:20 AM »
Always good when a plan comes together!
Thanks for posting, it might well help the next fulla that comes searching...

Lister Based Generators / Re: ST2 starter battery replacement
« on: November 24, 2021, 07:25:13 AM »
A battery Isolation key/switch would be simpler than "removing the battery"

Solar panels output more in cold weather...are you sure your charger is able to handle that and not cooking the batteries?

Any battery technology (VRLA, SLA, AGM, Wet Cell, even LiPo) will be fine as long as it has the CCA rating required. NONE of them like being drained and left undervoltage.

I'm not sure of the wiring setup on your ST, but it really should charge the battery when running, and if it doesn't then you should be putting a generator/alternator/rectifier on the unit, so it does.

Batteries are the weakest link in any off-grid system. Ideally you generate what you use, as you use it. Run the washing machine in the middle of the day, etc.

Batteries are ultimately consumable. But you also have a wasteful double conversion of energy, and storage loss.

You yanks are unfortunate with the 110V systems, as pointed out above, lower voltage demands higher current. 240 is way cooler.
24V would be the minimum bank voltage I'd consider. 36, 48 or 72 even better if you can find the gear (inverter etc) to run with it. Telco backup suppliers would be the people to contact.

The less conversion of energy, the better. You have a rotating engine, first look should be what can you spin straight off that (compressor, lathe, drill press)
Then if you need to charge batteries, a DC generator head (rather than generating 110 to feed a charger, to rectify and transform it to LVDC to go into the batteries, to be drawn out, inverted and feed the house...)

Diesel engines beat petrol IMO. Both for fuel storage, and tolerance. They'll generally run on any cleaned oil, waste motor oil, veg oil etc.
Petrols can be run on gassified wood, LPG/CNG, methanol, so there's a bit of resilience there but not as straight forward.

Sorry man, can't find my manual on the PC, and can't find pics of when I had the head off the 3-1.

If it was running good before, then I would be inclined to replace like-for-like until I could get a better answer, though both threaded wouldn't do you any harm and since they're not under a lot of pressure to move...

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: A lot of issue on lister cs
« on: August 23, 2021, 06:14:54 AM »
Sorry, I hope I'm understanding you correctly and can help. Element we would call a fuel-filter?

I am not sure what "misfiring"? Can you hear the injector (nozzle) creaking when the piston is after TDC?
(TDC Top Dead Centre on firing stroke)

The engine will certainly "hunt" (raise and lower itself) if the timing is off, but I would suspect the linkage/govenor first.
Since you say the gear on the camshaft has been altered, that would be the first thing to check. There should be punch marks on the gear teeth that need to align, and a Spill-timing mark on the flywheel. 18btdc if memory serves me.

I would check this is correct first, before loading the engine, but some engines may hunt at idle, and come alright when under load.

Crankshaft "moving in and out" we might call end float? This would be an issue in the main bearings and will only cause problems when run at speed and temperature.

Waste Motor Oil / Re: Conditioning waste motor oil
« on: August 20, 2021, 06:27:54 AM »
I wonder if a vacuum system would have advantages over a centrifuge? Or if it could be added to the process, before or after, as an additional refining step.
If anyone has the gear already set up, to compare these methods side-by-side, or one before the other and compare yield and some kind of test of clarity, calorie, ph, gravity etc...  This would be very interesting, OR, I'll add it to my long list of projects!

Original Lister Cs Engines / Re: Flushing OIl
« on: August 10, 2021, 08:09:30 PM »
I used to just buy an engine's worth of cheap oil, drain the old (when hot), fill with the cheap stuff and run till hot, then change filters, drain and fill with good oil.

Now I just drain the old and fill with good oil.

General Discussion / Re: Re: listerengine.com forum
« on: August 02, 2021, 03:44:07 AM »
Yup, I'll add my thanks to those tinkerers under the hood.

Just an Idea but I would be happy to download/backup a monthly rsync of the db if that's any use? I know your server/host probably keeps backups but another layer of redundancy never hurts.

Generators / Re: How to Choose a Gen Head
« on: July 25, 2021, 12:07:49 AM »
thanks mihit - yes we are in the Uk, hence 230 VAC

what you say about double converting energy makes sense - however, ideally I'd like to pour a concrete base and build a shed around the engine just to try and keep the noise down, it going to be easier to keep the engine "isolated"

one of my reasons for wanting to stay direct drive was just for the simplicity and "compactness", also, even if I could weld, living off grid makes it difficult to get power to weld! so I'd like to avoid having to make a frame to mount pulls and belts etc

thanks for the info on sizing the gen head

Fair point and obviously you know what's going to work best for you. Keep us updated and post pics if you can, we always like pics :)

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