I will be highly interested to hear the end result on this.

The first thought that jumped to my mind was 208/2 could be "production line 2, year 1908, second quarter" or something like.
Maybe Febuary (2nd month) but going up to 13 would rule that out.

...but wondering now if it's based off drawing numbers or something else. Interesting indeed

Quote from: mihit on March 31, 2022, 05:59:37 AM

Quote from: 38ac on March 30, 2022, 05:05:33 PM

No,  it wont work, the cylinder would be so far out of round when you got done brazing or any kind of  welding that would be worthless, but there is no need to take my word for it weld her up. It's no good now so you won't be ruining a cherry

Have you done this before?

We were held to some pretty tight tolerances on mould repair, and after machining you wouldn't know we'd even been there.

I did not type up a novelette for an answer because I'm not into that.  It takes forever with two fingers and doesn't convince those who don't want to be convinced.

 He asked if he could save the original Listard chrome with a patch, that pretty well eliminates any machine work after welding does it not? There is no doubt that the cylinder will be pulled out of round by welding or brazing, they are a heck of a lot less ridged than most suspect. Yes it could be fixed by welding,, if he is hell bent and money is no object as its a heck of a lot more complicated than weld a patch and grind.
 First bore the cylinder to remove the chrome and about .030" of cast iron. Then a spin figure must be made to rotate the cylinder while it is welded with some suitable material that is machinable and will allow for bonding of the chome. Then it must be bored to make it round again and to size plus the chrome thickness and less for honing. Then it must be chrome plated and honed with diamonds. The welding will also pull both ends out of square so clean up cuts on the deck and base will be required using a fixture that centers on the bore.  All in its a process reserved for only the most rare and expensive pieces, certainly not for a part that is easily replaced or properly repaired.

My thinking was more like... fill the damage with this chrome sprayweld stuff, hog it back to near flush with a file, then hone. No fixturing or machining required.

Spray welding is done with very local heat, and the rest of the thing is a massive heat sink, so yeah, done as an almost cold-welding process, there absolutely IS doubt that it "will" be pulled out of round.

It's why I asked if you'd done it before...and had an idea of the process.
'Cos I have arc-welded CI without distortion, and spent more than a little time spray welding. (Manual machinist and trade engineer, too.)

It's not that I can't be convinced...it just takes evidence, not novellas of overcomplication.

No,  it wont work, the cylinder would be so far out of round when you got done brazing or any kind of  welding that would be worthless, but there is no need to take my word for it weld her up. It's no good now so you won't be ruining a cherry

Have you done this before?

We were held to some pretty tight tolerances on mould repair, and after machining you wouldn't know we'd even been there.

If you're sticking with AC elements, I'll chip in with "micro inverter" - these clip/bolt/glue on the back of the panels and invert panel output to your line voltage AC, then you run AC wiring from the panels to the load.

Simplest I think. Probably not cheapest.
Also knocks your panels out for battery charging unless you either plug in a battery charger, or otherwise rectify your AC and through a controller of some ilk.

The most efficient solar water heating is vacuum tubes. These can run on thermosiphon, or pumped systems. The biggest thing would be either running an open system, or having a suitable over-pressure relief (they get seriously hot - boiling off hot)

Generally found more in charge controllers for wind turbines but "dump" or "diversion" loads/modes are an option. (Usually same thing: a heating element, which provides a resistive load and also brakes the wind turbine so it doesn't overspeed)

You could probably find a controller that would take your panels' input, wire the heater via a thermostat as the "main/ battery" and your batteries as the "diversion load"
(Though personally I'd do it the other way around)
I'd go for higher DC voltage, 24 or 48 or even more. This will mean you can use smaller gauge wiring for the same cable lengths, compared to 12V.

Oh and if you're pre-filtering it off the engine...you could leave the snake out and it would basically become a second sediment/water trap.

I think you are unlikely to blow yourself up with petrol. In fact with "black diesel" refined from waste motor oil, people often cut it with petrol to get it to viscosity.
How effective it is in the transesterification process is another question entirely.

http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel.html is the recipe I'm familiar with, though I've never done it myself.

Where I live methanol can be purchased in any quantity you like (up to 44 gal drum size) from industrial suppliers. However for some reason it requires police clearance.
If you know anyone running a moonshine still they may be happy to give you their foreshots and heads which could be redistilled/compressed into something fairly effective.

Bulk Sodium Hydroxide available at farm supply stores. Potassium hydroxide available from soap-making suppliers.