@oldgoat
thanks for the link, my initial idea was to make a genset out of "scrap" parts that are easily and cheaply available and the make a building manual, so anyone with basic skills could build one cheaply without falling in the  same pitfalls that I am already falling into. I can see the idea is not ideal and mayby slightly waste of effort - anyhow I have booked a couple of hours with a professional electro-guy and maybe he can guide me to the right way to do it or convince me to buy an off the shelf generator head.
I am still a bit puzzled as what parts make a off the shell generator do the job, to my understanding those are also based on asynchronous gennys - is that the avr or ..?? Have other people taken this route and succeeded?

I am building a homemade genset consisting of a Lister SR2 and a belt driven asynchronous motor as generator. I am in no way proficient in the electrical field, so this is also a learning project. I have tried to calculate the right size for capacitors as this will not be connected to the grid.
I've found two different equations on the web.
Equation one returns 108 uF
Equation two returns 62,5 uF

Could anyone say which is correct or come up with a valid equation of size of capacitor, before I start throwing money at useless parts :-).
I am planning to build a redundancy setup with 2 engines and 2 gennys on a common shaft, to mitigate breakdowns and service, so a valid equation would be very nice.
Thanks
Chris

The links to the guides are broken - if anyone has the doc or pdf, I'd very much like a copy.

Thanks

Priority number one is of course to make the engine start and run well on diesel, but I am a very curious soul, so I'll have to check out the alt fuels at some point, WMO = waste motor oil, WVO=waste vegetable oil.

The SR2 without gearbox:
This one has one of the cold start cups blinded. I have used that one cup with motor oil when cold starting. I pulled the rocker covers and checked the valve clearance - which was between 0,7 and 0,9mm, so I adjusted to 0,15 - 0,20mm, which was what I remembered from the manual. When I got back to the manual it said 0,35-0,41 for aluminum push rods, so I'll have to readjust the valve clearence  again. Anyhow, I ran it for about 25 minutes and the mechanical noise seemed significantly reduced.

So measuring compression means I have to pull the injectors and buy or borrow a diesel compression tester? Or can I just unscrew the top of the injector? Anyhow, I should pull the injectors to see if they spray properly.. Are the fuel parts metric thread or some of the funky British threads?

What do you consider healthy compression for an SR2 engine?

Sadly I have no history on the SR2s.

One last question for today. Icant really get my mind around understanding how the fuel overflow pipe from the injectors work and what their purpose is.

Kristian

Greetings. I have this very nice Lister-Petter HR2 sitting in my barn. As far as I understand it is a
HR2
CCW rotating
Built in 1990
Number 95 produced that year.
I read somewhere that the numbering system was changed in the eighties, so I am in doubt if it is correct.
What does 910 stand for? 
The engine plate reads
4000095HR2A910

Thanks
(It starts very easily and sounds so beefy – waiting for oil and filters before running it again)

Thanks.

I removed the electric starter and the gearbox and handcranked it to life, but definitely not an easy starter, but ran ok on both cylinders once it was running.

Do you have any comment on the one with the portuguese engine ID?