hotator - Thanks for the explaination. Does make alot of sense. Variation of idea may work well in my case. I found some scrap c-channel today for mounting rails. About 3" W x 9 1/2" deep, webs are around 1/4" thk. I think its heavy enough. I plan to weld stringers to set orientation with one another, then suspend/support pair above/ in hole opening. I'm not exactly sure how I'm going to do this yet, to adjust levelness and fix position. When finished with first pour, most of c-channel will be embedded in block, futher anchored in with thread rods, rebar, and scrap metal.  I should be "pouring" my block and slab later this week.

Everyone - Thanks for your inputs.

Forgive me for going off topic, and I'm new on this forum, so forgive me. But I just have to vent. Like everywhere else in America, well almost, the big box stores are becoming almost the only choice (even in my somewhat rural community), unless you shop out of a catalog or the internet. The other day I heard that a local, family owned hardware store was closing. Why this matter to me was, that this store had been open for 140 years, run by the same family, a fixture, a virtual rock in our throw-away world. I remember the first time I step in there, I was amazed at the breath of products that were contained. I remembered thinking then, how does this place exist today, how does it keep such an inventory of so many diverse products, I mean some of the inventory is from generations gone by. What was amazing to me was I never had any problems finding anything in this large, somewhat cluttered store. Along with their diverse inventory, you also received immediate attention when you walked in the store. Not a peskey, salesy, know nothing type, but a subtle, quite, guide you along, by someone who knew the inventory and quickly grasped what was needed, and all along keeping a tally of your bill among others like you. No calculators here. Because this store is not in the most conveinent place, I found myself patronizing the store only when the big box stores didn't have what I needed, which did happen often, especially considering the wacky projects I sometimes get myself involved with. My lack of "loyalty" to this store was not purposeful, it wasn't even consciously known until now, until its almost gone. Today, I found myself there, there for some needed items for my listeroid project. Even though they were trying to clear the inventory at 30 to 50% off, the store clerks were just as attentive as always, going about their business as if almost nothing had change, still no calculator except at the checkout counter. My own thoughts were, in addition what I needed for my project, was "why didn't I shop here more often".

Ok, since my last post, I read, and read, and read. My heavily reinforced block dimensions are going to be 54" L x 30" W x 24" D below grade, with the block narrowing to 24"- 25" inch width and 6" dept above grade to accomadate the flyweels of a 12/2 . I'm sold on mounting to alot of mass under the genset. I will use Guys 2" x 2" idea for setting anchor rods, will use either 8 -1/2, or 6 3/4" anchor rod.

First question, Should I isolate my mounting block from the surrounding 8" slab. Would the slab still be a good transmitter of low frequency vibration, even with my block under the set. The room is located on a corner of a pole barn structure, having 6"x 6" pt post eight feet apart (additional posts at room corners and doorways), sunk 3' 1/2 feet into the ground, sitting on top of 1 1/2' footings. The slab will use the skit board (surrounding the room) as its form, incapsulating the support posts. I guess I'm trying figure out how much vibration will be transmitted to the structure. Since I've never had a slow speed thumper before, its all kind of theory to me at this point. I would appreciate any insight, and I know their are probably two many variables to know for sure.

Hotater - Forgive me for not figuring this one out. Is the pvc tubes being use as forms for your anchors rods, which you later filled, or is it a provision to allow replacement of the rods if need be.

About 6 month ago, I decided that building a CHP solution was for me. Since then I've been planning, purchasing (12-2 power solutions JK-son engine and ST head and alot of associated paraphania), and building a home for it all. Its final home is a 12' x 11' room, part of a 48' x 36' pole barn structure. Now I'm ready to start pouring concrete but before I do, I want to make sure I'm on the right track as far as the genset mounting. As of now I have a 2 1/2' x 4' x 1 1/2' deep rectangular hole dug. My plan is to take the anchor rods that came with the engine, and properly position in the dug hole for later mounting of 2 - 42"  4" box channel or 4" x 4" PT post. The plan is to pour the concrete, filling the hole and a 12" slab above the hole. When the genset is mounted it will be sitting on top of its 4' x 4" mouting, secured to  2 1/2' of concrete underneath, with the rest of the room having a 1' thk slab. So far I think I'm on the right track. Please comment. I have some 1" thick, high durometer rubber matting that I've used for horse stalls. Should I use it under the genset mounting? Should I cushing, to lessing shock and vibration? The engine home is 50' - 60' from my house, the ground that everything sits on is sand, below the 1 1/2' - 2 ft' of sandy loom top soil. I live in a rural setting, so neighbors are not a problem. Would be thankful for any comment, especially from those that have been done this path. Any lessons learned, would be appreciated. Thanks.

Now that we know what Prussian blue is and how to apply it for the correct fitting of bearings, where can I get some so I can properly put my machine back together. Is it as simple as going to my local aitomotive store or machining supply shop, or do I have to special order some.

Skeeterscooter

Solarguy,

Your reasoning for the dipper shape makes sense in both accounts. Now that I adjusted the dippers correctly and polished the crank pins, I'm ready to reinstall the pistons. When I removed connecting rod end initially, I didn't find any shims. I'm going to plasticgauge the crank pin/ bearing fit. The manual states a maxium clearance of .003", What is the minimum clearance for this fit, rather what should I shim the fit to be, if need be. Sorry for the english, or lack of.

Skeeterscooter

Troy, Doug, Thanks for the replys.

Troy, you guess the way they were pointing was arbitrary and wrong. I'm sort of thinking the same thing, especially when the one of them is slapping oil to a location that already seemingly well oiled from a tube from above. The mod definitely sounds interesting, and should be effective.

Doug, I'm not sure what you're referring to regarding the GM-90, I guess I have some looking up to do.

Would appreciate if a few 12-2 owners would confirm what I now believe are dippers not rotated properly.