Remember that combustion gasses leaking into the cooling system pressurize it to extreme levels. A big leak will blow the rad cap off in a few seconds. A small leak will take a minute.

Chris

I removed the inner seal from the rad cap foor air to escape and coolant to remain full

The bubbles are probably from the head gasket. How much have you run it since the overheat and thermostat replacement?  Do you have a resovoir on the top?  That is the advantage of a clear/opaque overflow resovoir.  Any head gasket leaking into the cooling will show up as bubbles, but it also brings oil/carbon contamination to the cooling loop which floats to the top of the resovoir and creates a "bathtub ring" in the resovoir...  No oil scum in the resovoir?  you may just be purging out small amounts of trapped air in the head.  Do you have a weep hole in your thermostat? This helps to purge the trapped air.

Ron

I have run it alltogether, probably 1.5 to 2 hours. I haven't replaced the thermostst yet, I now have it hooked up to a geo metro radiator because the overflow hose has a clear line and I can see the bubbles raising to the overflow tank. I haven't seen any soot or oil in the tank. I removed the inner seal on the radiator cap so it will not build up preassure. That way any air bubbles have a clear path.

As the engine warms up and the bubbles decrease, the size of the bubbles decrease too. Some are as small as about 3/8 diameter so they don't get trapped anyplace.

I am looking for some input as to what to look for and where.

I have a video camera on the engine so I caught the temperature guage raising in time to shut down the engine. I narrowed down the problem to the thermostat sticking. Ironic that it is one of the few American made part in the engine isn't it.

The temperature got up to 230 degrees. My opinion is that that was not enough to break any castings.

The Radiator showes some bubbles when I first start it up and they drcrease as the engine warms up. I still get a few bubbles though.

The head gasket is also american made which me think the head gasket may not be the problem, but if so, what would be the problem.

I have a head gasket ordered and am going to try that anyhow as I think it is the most probable answer to the bubbles.

I was wondering is any body else has has any overheating and what the damages were. Especially where you caught it before it got too hot.

I am looking for some input as to what to look for and where.

I have a video camera on the engine so I caught the temperature guage raising in time to shut down the engine. I narrowed down the problem to the thermostat sticking. Ironic that it is one of the few American made part in the engine isn't it.

The temperature got up to 230 degrees. My opinion is that that was not enough to break any castings.

The Radiator showes some bubbles when I first start it up and they drcrease as the engine warms up. I still get a few bubbles though.

The head gasket is also american made which me think the head gasket may not be the problem, but if so, what would be the problem.

I have a head gasket ordered and am going to try that anyhow as I think it is the most probable answer to the bubbles.

I was wondering is any body else has has any overheating and what the damages were. Especially where you caught it before it got too hot.

I've been looking for antique glass battery jars, Playing in lead and sulfuric acid just sounds soo cool.

I know what you mean. When I was a kid I used to like to play with stuff that went bang. I hardly miss the fingers and eye any more.

I baught 6 new 6 volt deep cycle batteries about 18 months ago and set them up on a 12 volt system. Everything but the Air Conditioner, electric water heater, electric heat and refrigerator runs off of them. I will probably get 6 more soon but I am satisfied with them. I usualy charge them once a day.

so how much run time do you get off them??

I really don't know, They have never run down. I usually charge them to around 13 to 13.5 volts and after 24 hours they are usually down to around 12 to 12.5. The inverter shuts down at 10 volts so I have a long way to go. I imagine I could go two or three days between a charge if I had to.

It also depends on if I leave the desktop on all night or fall asleep watching TV. My lights are all florescent and LED. The stereo is a car radio, the microwave is 650 watt. I run as much 12 volt stuff as possible because every time you raise or lower a voltage or change from DC to ac or back, You loose power. I also do not leave wall-warts plugged in, they draw a lot of power.

My 12 volt items consist of Short wave radio, stereo, 1 b+w television, my external hard drive and Scanner.

I have a laptop that use most of the time because of low power consumption and I am looking for a 12 volt power supply for the desktop computer. I have seen them but can't remember where. I just have to get back on google to find them.

Thanks, I will keep that in mind.

I don't know Bob but I can tell you as soon as you start pulling off light ends your going to start getting water mixed in your condensate. I don't know how you can get around this problem without a columb. Second probelm is the light ends are going to be gasoline ( if you are using waste oil form cars ) and your going to have to collect this and dispose or burn it off. The midle distialtes you are after will come off the columb I can't even guess how much you will get but by adjusting the temperature and amount of vaccume you aply to the columb you should be able to control what ends you are getting. The bottom oils will char and coke if you try and push the process to high in temperature and this will form tars that will vapourize and enter the columb and this is bad because these will destroy your IP and Injector. If you can get some hydrazine ( and I don't recomend this because among other things tried this made us all sick at the plant ) and a centrafuge filter can probably spin out a lot of tar but at this point you ned to remember you are starting to crack heavy ends and the amount of coke and tar produced is proportional to the heat aplied ( I'd guess around 450 f your well inot the tar producing and cracking point ).

The longer your products sites the better because tars drop out. Fuel made this way should have along shelf life but you have no way of controling any chemicals that may run threw the system. Sulpher and other wierd stuff in the feed stock will get into the end product and if someone has dumped solvents into oil feed stock these may run the loop and carry all kinds of strands things threw the columb and into your end product.

Fire is a real threat....
Condensate from the top of the tower has a realy low flash point should be treated like gas.

Doug

Good luck