I'll give the guy some credit, I was able to use one of his WVO ideas for filtering and drying vacuum pump oil. Has save me lots of $$$

Rest in peace Glorty

I had an 85 corolla diesel I was driving across three states a few years back. After coming over a grade I noticed the engine started to knock really loud. I had also fueled up right before the grade. Sounded like the bottom end was coming apart, I wasn't sure if I was going to make it. I thought climbing the hill killed it but it was just bad diesel. Next fill up the noise went away.

Turned out to be bad diesel. Probably had some gasoline mixed in it.

Have you tried a separate source for diesel? I would drain the tank and switch out the fuel from another station. You can't fully verify the fuel without some lab testing, just swap it all out and see.

I've gotten bad diesel fuel knock before...

hwew,

I was digging through some of the changfa videos. Thats a nice looking little motor, to bad the ban came in right when they where getting popular. I like the dual balance shafts and gear drive setup. From what I can tell, it is partially splash lube so that would have to be checked out for low RPM operation. I don't think many got imported. There may be less of them in the US then listeroids. Im wondering if someone can import "kits". Im guessing they don't make the R165 anymore, anyone know?


For now, I think I will focus on converting a lister since I'm thinking the Changfa displacement might be to small for very low RPM range. The lister already has the large flywheels....

Lets assume for argument that a 6/1 produces 1 H.P. at 100 RPM (probably less than that). Thats 745 watts of flywheel power. If you apply a 600w load, you are now in the "heavy load" range. Assuming a 33% thermal efficiency lets say we will have 4,100 BTUs/hr waste heat. lets say we want to heat the entire motor minus flywheels from 60F to 180F. heat capacity of mild steel = .122 btu/lb-deg F ...400lbs x 120F increase x .122 = 5,800 BTUish. roughly 85 minutes to full warm up of entire block. Thats assuming no losses from surface radiation on the motor. Thats not allot of heat to work with. If we want to raise 50 gallons of water from 60F to 140F, we need 33,000 BTUs. Thats 8 hours of run time assuming zero loss from the block to the room. Thats almost a perfect match for a little remote cabin and basic hot water needs. FYI this would also involve capturing exhaust heat otherwise numbers are double for water heating time.

The block is going to need to be insulated. Now for what its worth, most vehicles I have worked on hot over the years never see 180F through the entire motor. Mostly between 120-150F on the edges and opposite ends of the motor. We don't have to keep the entire motor at full temp. There is resistance to heat flow, we just need to keep the head and cylinder/piston up to temp.

The other issue is the V.E. We will need to be getting 1.66 CFM into the motor at that RPM. There is a way to confirm this, if someone had a compression gauge and a 2 cylinder lister, they could confirm this with one side running and the other measuring running compression through the RPM band. We could graph VE through the RPM range this way. Other option is to manually spin up a single cylinder lister.

Some thing to think about, the V.E. can't be to horrible at that low of an RPM otherwise these motors would never hand start without glow plugs fully cold. Bumping the compression up may be all that is needed. The induction system may be fine how it is.

This is looking very possible from what I can see.

Shrouding may not be the technically correct term but the 45° seat angle starts at the deck and continues down past the full face of the valve and below it. The head of the valve recessed at .100 below the deck. Certainly not conducive to good flow past the valve,, or great seating either.

Ah yes, I see what you mean. Just curious, what kind of life are you seeing out of the factory seats? Are they prone to sinking?

Quote from: gadget on December 04, 2020, 07:00:07 PM

I've been searching for an option for a low output CHP set, right around .5-1 HP. I'm looking for 300-600watts continues electric and heat output. Think small cabin type setup. I want it to run continues but be able to go a 25k hours between major rebuild(if possible) so I'm thinking low 100-200 RPM. Big piston / flywheel motor looks like the way to go.

So far, I'm thinking a listeroid may be the simplest setup, but I'm not sure what kind of power output at those speeds. I was also looking at a changfa but I think indirect injection would probably be more reliable at low speed vs the changfa direct injection. Its going to also run on oil.

Your looking for only 300 to 600 watts?
A listeroid is too large. It will never heat up enough. There is just too much iron to soaking up the heat. It will coke up, and cylinder will most likely glaze up with such a light load. And a gooey mess coming out of the exhaust. I doubt the crankcase will get hot enough to evaporate the moisture.

You know considering how cool these motors run, it occurred to me maybe they could be insulated. I went to Canada once in January when it was around -18F and my rental car never armed up. The heater barely put out any heat after driving on the high way for about an hour. I'm guessing the cold air around the motor and heater where cooling the motor to much.

What would be the implications of wrapping a listeroid in some insulation? Has anyone tried it yet? I know there are issue with the sump area staying pretty low temp

Quote from: hwew on December 31, 2020, 01:15:14 AM

I believe they are IDI. Im not sure if they make them in DI. I know the S-195’s were made both ways.

I think the S-165 will be the best you can find for your application.

Confirm, you mean the r165 Changfa correct?

If I ran it at lower RPMs, I would likely need a custom long runner intake and more flywheel mass, should not be a problem

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ATQamebvfU&t=72s

Quote from: gadget on December 31, 2020, 12:39:08 AM

I may actually pick up a 16/2 down the road and use the 8/1 with the axial charger.

I would love an axial charger on the crankshaft of my 6/1.
If you find a good source that does not require a second mortgage to purchase, let me know.

Here's a fellow that built one for his Listeroid. Nice compact unit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyJYdHzwsy4

How about a radial instead of axial? There was a guy on a youtube video that was putting magnets on the pulley faces of the flywheels and pulling some power directly off the flywheels. Its like a built in rotor. I wish I could find the vidoe. Its allot of magnets but they could be spaced. You wouldn't have to surround the entire flywheel with coils, just as many as you want for power.

Why not make your own?  The windmill guys have lots of good right ups. You could also go the scrap route.  I think the hover board motors are good for 600w's. I think the washing machine direct drive motors are pretty high output but i don't remember what volts they are wound for.