So the only damage to the power side of the generator was cutting the wires, which were feeding power to a load of some kind??

“There’s a lot of small terminals in the box that the wires were cut on and I’m wondering if this maybe the trouble.”

These small terminals were bare with no wires or were there wires attached and were they in the same box that fed power to a load and are they in the picture?

Did you check to see if the load/output voltage from the generator was DC?

Wow, “atmospheric friction modifiers” how did you come up with that ? Threw me off for a while.

 Thanks for filling in the pages guys. I see now how it works or can work in different ways. I have been trying to come with a way to remotely turn off my HR2 remotely and since there is air present duh.

All this talk of slow speed engines gives me an urge to have a look at a slow speed gas engine I have had sitting around for many years.  It is a horizontal single cylinder engine with two 34 inch flywheels, a 6 inch bore and 22 inch stroke. All bearings are babit. I had it bored out with a new piston.

 Seven HP at 300 Rpm, I was using it to run a generator and it did quite well. But a problem soon put an end to that setup. On the extreme end of the stroke the piston did a little number and acted like it did a jerk against the bore, which soon killed the engine.

I did take the time to hone out the dent in the bore so I am thinking it could run again with new rings, which I have.

Apparently the connecting rod is bent or I would think less likely the crank is bent or out of position.

 I am playing around with ideas on how to find the problem.

Hello veggie:  Really no reason why it wouldn’t work if the inverter were heavy enough to handle the startup current of the electric motor and a motor strong enough to get up to full speed before it starts to burn. A lot of flywheel mass there to get going.

If my brain is on the right track I think a nine inch pulley would hamper the motors ability to develop full torque quick enough to not burn.

Really, what RPM is needed to get the Listeroid to fire, say 250 RPM ? That would give you a 3 inch pulley on the electric motor, which I suspect would be much easier for the electric motor to come up to speed.

That also means the electric motor would be revving at 4823 RPM once the Listeroid got up to speed.

It seems there is always a trade off.

Rare now but at one time there were repulsion start induction run motors that put out lots of starting torque with out large currents.

It sounds like you already know that a normal squirrel cage motor can be a finicky generator. In this case to charge batteries.

Scott

I am sending a little tidbit of info I got somewhere, could be copied from a post here.

I have a ST2 air cooled with a 6.5 gen belted to it. I run the engine at 1500 RPM. The biggest verified load I have put to it was 4000 watts. Didn’t seem to even notice, very good at maintaining correct voltage. Quite good on fuel.
The manual has this to say about it.
Brake HP/KW  RPM
21 /15.7 at 3000 RPM, 20/14.9 at 2600, 16.2/12.1 at 2000, 14.6/10.9 at 1800,12/8.9 at1500,9.4/7.0 at 1200.

Well, I see I could be running it at 1200 RPM but I have a long time Lister Bud that feels Lister was a bit generous when stating doable KW/HP.

Generally speaking each RPM requires specific governor weights but I lucked out with the ST in that it was being used in a boat or some arrangement requiring variable speed but it still does quite well on the generator.

I have a HR2, these are heavy weight engines.  The 2 puts out 29.5 HP at 2200 , 25 at 1800. 17 at 1200. The HR3 will go 44.25 HP at 2200, 37.5 at 1800,25 at 1200. The HR 4 will do about 30 HP at 1200.

Green mountain generators on the internet gives has a comprehensive list of Lister engines they probably copied from realdiesel.co.uk. So does stationery engine parts, same list.

I have purchased parts from realdiesel.

Hello sailor:
I have a Lister  HRWM-parts PDF file and a HR-HRW industrial-marine PDF. Problem is I am fairly new to this forum. I will do some research to see how I can post it to you. Or perhaps someone will let us know what to do.

Sending as attachments doesn't cut it. I can easily send them as Email.

Hello all:
While watching the video I was reminded of an issue I had with a AC 2. It smoked just like your SL1 but being a two cylinder it kept running at a lively rate. Any way turned out one of the cylinders had a crack in it. The warmer it got the more it smoked.

Hey Jack:
I dug up a manual concerning generators similar to yours. There are several schematics of various builds.

If I am reading right your stater resistance is way too high.

These machines have a separate series winding, which is a built in starter. The shunt is I believe the exciter winding.They seem to work together.

I did not see a dedicated two slip ring 220 volt machine there but that doesn't mean there is no such animal.

Hey Jack:
I dug up a manual concerning generators similar to yours. There are several schematics of various builds.

If I am reading right your stater resistance is way too high.

These machines have a separate series winding, which is a built in starter. The shunt is I believe the exciter winding.They seem to work together.

I did not see a dedicated two slip ring 220 volt machine there but that doesn't mean there is no such animal.

Well I tried to send a PDF 4.3 megs deep but the server would not do it. Perhaps someone will enlighten me as to why.

Hey Jack: What is a B/R?

Thinking about it some more.

It may not be as simple as first thought. There are two ways to charge batteries, constant voltage and constant current. Since the voltage and current are proportional to each  other in this application either one would require a method to control the engine RPM and ideally, automatically stop and start the engine.

That would be a old school approach and could get complicated. Though perhaps in the long run less prone to failure.

The arduino could very likely do all that and charge using  pulse with modulation with the engine running at a constant RPM.  My rub is that PWM can be destructive to old perhaps tired winding/coils especially if they have high resistance. Perhaps that problem is solvable.

Scott