Yes a copper pipe would be ok with me if I can find one. The old bush is fairly thick, perhaps I could bore the old bushing out and push a copper liner in.

The wrist pin has any where from 1/2 to one thou wear, measures 7/8 in and is very hard.

I took the old bushing out and set the rod on a granite plate. The rod little bore does not seem to line up to the big bore. I need to check that out. If babbit does in fact swell as it cools I could try filling the small end and then somehow drilling and reaming to align with the big end.

 The small end bore is roughly tapered by about three to four thou . By design or just loose tolerances?
I jumped the gun on the bushing I made and did not discover the taper until too late.

The old bush is not tapered and appears to be soft steel with bronze or some fairly hard liner. Possibly I could bore it a little and  pour babbit or tin solder  and ream it.

Oh well, I will be thinking about it.

Interesting observation 38ac. I hadn't considered that sort of thing. I think I will try brass rather than the babbit I have here.

I believe I read a post where you might have a lathe. Have you ever made bearings or bushings? 

I am including a couple pictures showing what I will try first in my attempt to make a proper bushing. One shows a shaft slightly smaller that the wrist pin. The second pict is the outer container to hold the brass. If I can get the brass out or off of the these two items I will consider myself lucky.

I use old poured babbit bearings on some of the sawmill shafts. I get the babbit from a comersial saw mill. They use the babbit in their gang saw. They call it high speed babbit or hard babbit.They also say it is lead free with a lot of tin.

I coat the shaft with a  coat of carbon applied by a Acetylene flame. As mentioned clay or something to seal the gaps. Poured directly through the oil hole and then drilled. No need to scrap. Works fine, no searching around for probably none existent bearing shells.

I am currently working on  replacing the small end bushing on a small, old, slow speed gas engine. I am not aware of any organization that sells bushings for these old engines. This hard babbit is a dream to mill. It will be a DIY schooling project. I might coat the wrist pin and pour the babbit around it and then machine it to fit the small end.

Interesting post by cujet.

 As far as maintenance and troubleshooting goes seems like a good long term investment to consider a heat pump.

Of course it all depends on the over all circumstances of each area to heat and how much time one is willing to spend building and then working the bugs out of what could become rather complicated.

Heat pump, more or less instant heat and thermostatically controlled to boot.

2000 watts 220 volts around 10 amp. What does a heat pump of that nature cost?

My two cents, considering magnetos, point gap is critical, also points should be not just  free of pits and roughness but polished  and the final bit is to run clean dry paper or cardboard through the points to make sure all residue is wiped off.

Try running or turning the engine over in the dark to see if any sparks show up in the electrics.

If the compression is weak a trick I learned is to give the cylinder bore a good hone somewhat rough.  This will make the rings reconnect to the cylinder bore. Make sure you clean the bore after honing.

If I am reading that motor tag right the voltage is 400 or 690 volts and what phase

If I am interpreting your post correctly measuring each phase to neutral should have given you a voltage. If true what was the voltage?

Again, if I am interpreting your post correctly measuring across each phase, as I see it, does not give your meter a point of reference therefore no  reading.

You mention checking the mains is that the same thing as measuring a phase to neutral? What is the difference between a phase and a main ?

What did you use for neutral ?

I sent the picture of the mains to him, here is what he had to say about the white wires.

“White wires normally go to the control console of a generating set, if you don't have the console you'll have to start again as it's not possible for me to guess what they are. Normally they will be connected to various volt meters and to do with safety engine shutdown in case of over volt or over
speed.”

I was hoping he would have something to say about the lettering under each main. I can see a b c d, LD1 (load 1) under A, LD2 under B but I can’t see if there is anything under c and d. I would expect to see LD3.

Is it a b c D or a b c N?

Any way the mystery of the white is wires solved; you can play around with them and build a new console. The rest of the wiring looks to be in place and can do the mysterious things they do.

Optimistically, it looks like you might not really have a problem other than deciding whether to use three phase or single phase.

Hello Andy: Sorry about the delay.

If your still around, I sent the picture of the six coils to a fellow I know.

If you didn't know already this is his reply

"That is a transformer automatic voltage regulator Scott, on those types the voltage can be adjusted and if you need to I'll tell you how. If the unit works it would be useful to keep as these type AVR's are good for handling inductive loads. I've probably got a wiring diagram for this type somewhere."

If you want I can send him more information and see what he has to offer.