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Messages - sirpedrosa

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Petteroids / Re: PETTER - PAZ1 - New project - wiring AVR to alternator
« on: September 18, 2023, 09:20:11 PM »
Gentles, Bob

Bob give a hand here please.

Pay atention to my reply here:

Now I want to put the AVR in to get power as stable as possible.

Windings look like the sketch below. And the AVR is a cheap one.

How should I connect it to make it right!


Changfa Engines / Re: Changfa 1115 knocking
« on: August 30, 2023, 06:06:42 PM »
Hi Gentles

Im with Butch. Direct injection. But you can take a look at injection point, it could be a bit earlier.

But with no load it sound ok at 1st glance.



As usual first word will be addressed to all members of LEF, that are with me since the beginning, a special thanks.

Some steps back were supported for them, as you all said thing are always this way, and I must embrace things as they show and give my personal touch in order to achieve my goal (this one is for you Bob, with a special hug).

Cobba, another hug for you, just because you can see the aim of my tasks, and comprehend the world is not square. And no, the 1L tank will stay as it is.

Willw, thanks for your appreciation.

Stef, you still want I present a restoration of a Famel Zündapp, isn't it? Forget, its too expensive!

Butch, look at my German, its fancy, isnt it?

Joks done. Lets go to the business!

Gave a long run to the German (+20mn), let it burn till water gets hot, tweaked governor to 1000 rpm - and no leaks. Open crankcase to see if all is ok, and it shows a nice chamber.

See vid here:

Cut elbow from hopper lid and extract remains of iron from threads with high amp weld rod, and handle saw. New paint, and voilá!

Some pics of process.Forgot to make some pics, but you will all understand.



Next last weekend of July we have the anual craft, culture, and heritage fair at village, therefore I have no time to put the "decent" fuel tank on the German.

So I spoke with chinese and they sent another 1L tank to put on to make the rally.

Take a look how it fits nicely.

2 pics for the show.



Another tool to the shop. A FIAC compressor from 1988 (turned to nice blue).

Derusted, new paint, new rings from Greece (!!!), new safety valve, new hose connectors... and voilá!

Pic Before and after.


Ian, Gentles

You are trully wellcome!

Your engine got the scars of WW2, US occupied Köln and all German industry had been destroyed.

Injector has 1/2UNC studs, and governor lever has 1/2 19TPI AKA japanese gas.

Injector is set by shims.


Ian, Gentles

Lets start. I think I saw one of those pics sometime ago, but....

The hopper stud is 5/8 unc straightforward, to put a new one, just buy a 5/8 bolt.

Zünfix go here:
or here:

And yes, all parts from Germany are expensive, very expensive.

The selly question: Is it perfectely timed? (My thread was clear enough?). If so, take a look at my Lister thread here:

Is your injector certified at 120ATM? This is an low compression engine - thats why it needs starter!

Is you IP element and plunger ok? If all checked now las thing is the quantity of shims. The more, the late! the few the knoking. CASPICI?

Just my 10 cents... for now.


Hi Ian, Gentles

Lets see the IP cam lobe bump: go here:

As you can see lobe lift is 10mm. Therefore (now go here:

You must see if the travel of plunger is too far (you can take off IP valve [with IP snugged in place] and with the comparator see how much the travel is). If no shims you can eventualy damage pump element and plunger.

And yes all shims are between IP tappet guide face and IP face. Caspici?

I put back all paper shims it had, but if I notice it must be fine tweaked ill make more of 0,25mm gasket paper.

About fancy painting it's just a matter of each country evaluation. Here if I present an engine restored with patina is only a piece of junk.

Remember those engines are low compression, therefore they need starter cigar.


Hi Ian

First things first. put pictures as many as you can!

Shims: My 914 has 3*0,25mm (only after running you can identify the knock - the few more knocking aka too early, the more lacking of power)

Dumping fuel: with injector out, turn crank to TDC (You can put a comparator with stem in bore to measure distance versus fly angle) [couldnt find angle of fire Before TDC]. YOU CAN DO IT WITH VEGETAL OIL FIRST.

Steel washer? where?

Just my thoughts for now.


Bob, Stef, Gentles

After going around and around with the HP line, and braze the back of conic joint at injector, and put new return line (all on trail mode).

It still has the HP line very dented with the years of rust, and telling the truth it will be better to make a smooth new one.

It still sweats at the joints, but I have to give it as operational for now.

And the return line drips a lot. Im questioning it the return to the filter will be best solution.

Lets see!

2 pics and a vid [] to the show. The vid is a 2 merged vids.

This run push out 5 nuts from the kart (the wood is know dry)


PS: PreChamber must be very clean of diesel to light the fuse, else it flood and doesnt autoignite.

Bob, Gentles

High pressure line still leafing.

After brazing, filing... brazing... filing... hammering the pipe tip... snuggling to seat at injector... hammering again... it give a go.

Put diesel in syringe, longer return line, starter cigar at chamber (not lit), 3 or 4 turns of crank and it fired up right way.

Another setback. Return line start to spill everywhere. AND the conic joint still leak a drop, but I'll braze the back of conic seal.

2 pics, and a vid [] for the show.


Bob, Gentles

Ordered a brass tap to the German hopper. It arrived at gold price due the brexit. Customs charged me almost acquisition price. Damn Brits!

Thought the leaking was from flared joint of HP pipe to Injector. So make a visit to my friend Faria of MARCODIESEL, with 46 years of expertise.

Broke the conic joint and put a new one. Back to home and line still leaking. Damn German!

Put a toothpick clogging line and compressor tip at the other.... and: well, well the line is broken by the biconic seal!

Got another new biconic seal, but first I need to weld line and file it to 1/4 in order to all become right.

A few pics to the show.



The German is alive!

You can see the vids here:

1st attempt:

2nd attempt and run:

Next task: make decent return fuel lines, fuel tank brakets, and the trolly.

Here are some pics for the show with preparations.
1 - Hanged on ceiling;
2 - Hanged on A frame;
3 - laid on rubber mat;
4 - Back on kart.



Fuel lines are flooded.

As it was my thoughts, return line acts like a balance line, therefore my thoughts expressed here:, about make a goose neck, with lines passing by top level of fuel tank, made my theory true!

Never mind of theories. I want just the German kicking!

Maybe this mornig Ill put the fuse on it! LETS SEE!

One pic for the show.



Here we go again!

Before fire up the German, got to get the rocker arm balance spring. Buy it here:

Buyed 2 torsion springs - just in case (10€).

Made customisation spring, but not fully happy with result (it work, but not as I intended it should do)

therefore next came to workbench and it fits like it should do; see difference in bend angles!

As usually a few pics for enthusiasts members.


PS: Got to buy silicone hoses for diesel from syringe to IP, and return from IP to syringe.

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