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Messages - sirpedrosa

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Hi Ian, Gentles

Lets see the IP cam lobe bump: go here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=9555.msg109890#msg109890

As you can see lobe lift is 10mm. Therefore (now go here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=9555.msg109994#msg109994)

You must see if the travel of plunger is too far (you can take off IP valve [with IP snugged in place] and with the comparator see how much the travel is). If no shims you can eventualy damage pump element and plunger.

And yes all shims are between IP tappet guide face and IP face. Caspici?

I put back all paper shims it had, but if I notice it must be fine tweaked ill make more of 0,25mm gasket paper.

About fancy painting it's just a matter of each country evaluation. Here if I present an engine restored with patina is only a piece of junk.

Remember those engines are low compression, therefore they need starter cigar.


Hi Ian

First things first. put pictures as many as you can!

Shims: My 914 has 3*0,25mm (only after running you can identify the knock - the few more knocking aka too early, the more lacking of power)

Dumping fuel: with injector out, turn crank to TDC (You can put a comparator with stem in bore to measure distance versus fly angle) [couldnt find angle of fire Before TDC]. YOU CAN DO IT WITH VEGETAL OIL FIRST.

Steel washer? where?

Just my thoughts for now.


Bob, Stef, Gentles

After going around and around with the HP line, and braze the back of conic joint at injector, and put new return line (all on trail mode).

It still has the HP line very dented with the years of rust, and telling the truth it will be better to make a smooth new one.

It still sweats at the joints, but I have to give it as operational for now.

And the return line drips a lot. Im questioning it the return to the filter will be best solution.

Lets see!

2 pics and a vid [https://youtu.be/9B3svWRu7AE] to the show. The vid is a 2 merged vids.

This run push out 5 nuts from the kart (the wood is know dry)


PS: PreChamber must be very clean of diesel to light the fuse, else it flood and doesnt autoignite.

Bob, Gentles

High pressure line still leafing.

After brazing, filing... brazing... filing... hammering the pipe tip... snuggling to seat at injector... hammering again... it give a go.

Put diesel in syringe, longer return line, starter cigar at chamber (not lit), 3 or 4 turns of crank and it fired up right way.

Another setback. Return line start to spill everywhere. AND the conic joint still leak a drop, but I'll braze the back of conic seal.

2 pics, and a vid [https://youtu.be/rfZeYHuvdbQ] for the show.


Bob, Gentles

Ordered a brass tap to the German hopper. It arrived at gold price due the brexit. Customs charged me almost acquisition price. Damn Brits!

Thought the leaking was from flared joint of HP pipe to Injector. So make a visit to my friend Faria of MARCODIESEL, with 46 years of expertise.

Broke the conic joint and put a new one. Back to home and line still leaking. Damn German!

Put a toothpick clogging line and compressor tip at the other.... and: well, well the line is broken by the biconic seal!

Got another new biconic seal, but first I need to weld line and file it to 1/4 in order to all become right.

A few pics to the show.



The German is alive!

You can see the vids here:

1st attempt: https://youtu.be/5kGsakboBFI

2nd attempt and run: https://youtu.be/gQq4xgi5IT0

Next task: make decent return fuel lines, fuel tank brakets, and the trolly.

Here are some pics for the show with preparations.
1 - Hanged on ceiling;
2 - Hanged on A frame;
3 - laid on rubber mat;
4 - Back on kart.



Fuel lines are flooded.

As it was my thoughts, return line acts like a balance line, therefore my thoughts expressed here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=9555.msg111236#msg111236, about make a goose neck, with lines passing by top level of fuel tank, made my theory true!

Never mind of theories. I want just the German kicking!

Maybe this mornig Ill put the fuse on it! LETS SEE!

One pic for the show.



Here we go again!

Before fire up the German, got to get the rocker arm balance spring. Buy it here: https://www.fanamol.pt/

Buyed 2 torsion springs - just in case (10€).

Made customisation spring, but not fully happy with result (it work, but not as I intended it should do)

therefore next came to workbench and it fits like it should do; see difference in bend angles!

As usually a few pics for enthusiasts members.


PS: Got to buy silicone hoses for diesel from syringe to IP, and return from IP to syringe.


Today, late afternoon, give flys a good squeeze with proper wrench (;D).

Got enthusiast and put also crank boss on, and pulley.

Syringe is on place too...

Almost there!

A few pics.



The German got his sump filled with fresh oil - 3,5L

Oil pump squirts ok - I think it should have a pressure relief valve, but as far I can see it doesnt.

Next task: screw tight flys nuts.

Remove fuel line to IP, to make test runs. After all ok Ill put line again from fuel filter.

Some pics for the show.


Cobba, Bob and Gentles

A far as my research got, this starter fuse is needed due to LOW compression - large TDC clearance - and therefore air did not reach high temp in order to make combustion.

So the fuse autoingnites with compression and stays lit till it burn completely.

As you can see the TDC claearence is about 4mm and must add prechamber volume (see here: https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=9555.msg111218#msg111218).

my 12/2 stay at 1,3mm - https://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?topic=8320.msg102670#msg102670.

My 5cents.


Hi Gentles

YUPI! The zündfix arrived from Germany.

Buy it from https://www.oldtimer-kuepper.de, and Im very happy with deal.

They are reliable! They also sent a catalog.

Now got to put oil in, torque flys, and - again - put diesel on the seringe to give it the first run.

A few pics for the show.



As long as I cant get an original fuel tank, that holds return fuel lines, from IP and injector, ill put them to return to fuel filter - off course with goose neck, with lines passing by top level of fuel tank - and therefore fabricated a banjo tower.

A few pics to the show.


PS: already waiting for the zundfix to fire it!


Belive, its the same torch! 1st clean is done. Got to put new rubber gaskets, and leather in pump.

Decompressor lever got paint... again.



Fine tweaks at the German. I got to fill with brazing the decompression lever in order to make it accurate with intake rod stop nut.

And a tour to scrap man with some junk, found there a kerosene torch to restore. Nice isn't it?

A few pic to the show.


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