You're right Fuelishnot, WWII Props uses a 7.5hp Baldor.

What do people think of this motor?

10 hp 1740rpm 215T Frame TEFC (Farm Duty) 230 Volts Leeson Electric Motor # 140706

    * 230 volts 40.0 amps 60hz.
    * TEFC - Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled - Electrically Reversible
    * Manual Overload Protection - Service Factor 1.0
    * NEMA 215T Frame - Flat Rigid base mount - 1 3/8" Diameter shaft x 3 3/8"
    * Class F Insulated - Ball Bearings w/low temp grease

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009WSRYA/ref=nosim/104-1221003-4000758?n=228013

I'd use this with a 12hp Listeroid.

Or since I'm net metering, is a 10 hp induction generator a little overkill.  One thought I had was I wouldn't have to run the engine as long every month.  The downside is a 12 hp is double the price of a 6hp. 

The nice thing about a 12 hp motor is if the grid does go down I could have a back up 7.5 kW generator.  I know the gen head is a little oversized for this motor but I'm hoping I'd have a little more head room with the 7.5kw for the well pump.

All insight or comments are appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

 

Hey Guys,
Been offline for a while.  here's an update;

Mike (ListeroidsUSA) did send me a couple of relays but they were for 3 phase power and were both undervoltage.  They look really neat but I don't really know what to do with them since I'm trying to set up a single phase system.

I'll copy Mikes offer of sending them to anyone who wants them for shipping cost (about $8)

Mike,
I did get the check back but I still feel like I owe you for shipping.  Sorry for taking so long but I'll be dropping some cash ($8.10?) in the mail to cover shipping costs.

I've got another email to my utility engineer requesting clarification on the speed of their recloser.  She said in her original response that the fast recloser typically has a 3 second delay.  I'm presuming 3 seconds is plenty of time for an induction sytem to come offline and stay offline before the power comes back up.  But she also said that it might be faster than that.  So I want to understand how fast is faster.  I'll let you know what she says.

Although from an expense point this is probably a pipedream, I'm thinking of the following strategy

For intertie:
12hp twin listeroid
5 to 7.5hp single phase induction generator for intertie
Undervoltage relay to disconnect generator when power goes down
Reverse current relay to disconnect generator if grid power comes back up before intervention
Other parameters will be controlled via induction by the grid (frequency)

For long term power outage:
Swap belts from induction generator to 5 to to 7.5 kw ST gen head
Keeps lights, water pump, and fridge running

Cogen
Large thermal tank (800 gallons)

Non heating season
Coolant heat for domestic hot water

Heating season
Both coolant and exhaust heat will be used for home heating and domestic hot water

Concerns and questions:
Will the 12 hp be underloaded with a 5 hp motor used as an induction generator?
Will this system generate enough hot water heat for a family of 5 with 3 girls (not teenagers yet)
The utility engineer said at times I could be seeing voltages as high as 250V.  Will a 230V induction generator operate effectively if line voltage is 250V?

Your thoughts, opinions, and ideas are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

Pardon my ignorance, but what are one way bearings?

Thanks

I still don't get it.  Please help me. 

All I'm doing is cooling off the exhaust adding some air with a compressor driven off the crank and then sending it back to the engine intake .. ... very simple.. not rocket science..   
Are you shutting off the diesel so the engine is just running on exhaust and added O2?

the engine will run as long as a sufficient supply of air is entering the system to keep the fuel burning... too much fuel and no air and eventually it quits... 

The exhaust has limited fuel in it, once it is cycled twice is there enough fuel to keep the engine running?  Or are you adding diesel too?

there is an exhaust port...at the bottom of the intake accumulator which is also a centrifugal separator of sorts..  water and CO2 are what comes out...
Here's where you totally lose me.  Why does only water and CO2 come out?  Why not unburned fuel?

The exhaust can be held back to pressurize the system and increase the density of the working fluid..
What is the working "fluid"?    Why do you call it working fluid?  Is this diesel?

... kind of like turbocharging without the turbo...
Why does increasing the density of this "fluid" create a turbocharging affect?

The usefullness of this is that it is quiet and nearly pollution free.. there may be possible efficiency benefits... but that has yet to be proven..

Why is this quiet?  Are you implying that it is quieter than a muffled lister that is not running on recirculated exhaust?

Maybe pictures would tell the story better. 

Could you provide close up pics of your entire set up?  Specifically I'd like to see how the exhaust is connected to the intake and how the exhaust port releases water and CO2 but not unburned diesel.

Finally, what are you trying to accomplish?  At first blush, "reburning" exhaust seems like an efficiency play with less pollution as a side result.  Is this what you're trying to do?

Thanks,
Steve

Sorry to hijack this thread but I have a question on start up current surges.

Would adding starter capacitance, that limits the current surge at start up, reduce your overall energy consumption?  i.e. could you save money if you were on the grid?

Or is is the same energy consumed but just applied differently to the motor?

Thanks,
Steve

Hi Mike,
Back is better today so I'll send some cash to you tomorrow after work.

Thanks,
Steve

Yup, I think it"s $1200 plus shipping and you need a power contacter.

Hi Mike,
I'm very interested.  When you say "all" do you mean there is more than one of each?  maybe I could extract what I think will work for my needs and forward the remainder to Schoust.

I can mail you some cash tonight and I'll include my shipping info.

Thanks,
Steve