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Messages - Boxelder

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I did try to move it out away as far as possible when remounting it, to no effect. Will put some thought into your suggestion. Thanks.

Well I looked at hundreds of pictures of starter ring gears using google image search.

Some are beveled, but most are not.  This has always confused me just a little bit, as it seems like this type of issue would be more common.  I have to be missing something easy.

Thanks Bob.  I'll check out some videos of flex plate ring gears to see what they're supposed to look like.

A question for the gear heads and mechanical thinkers:

I have a Mahindra 4505 tractor, basically an Indian-made IH B414.  It's been an excellent little tractor, but it has this one quirk.  When I go to start it, 9 times out of 10 the bendix just goes "clank" and hits the ring gear without engaging.  I keep on trying until it finally meshes and starts.  It's done this since I've owned it, which is an embarrassingly long time.  As one does, you just adapt your behavior to the quirks of your tools and get on with it.

A few days ago I finally attempted to address the issue.  I removed the starter and had a look.  Sure enough, it appears that the bevels have been improperly ground on the bendix.  Now I'd like to remove it and re-grind the faces.  Any suggestions on angles and depths, if it's agreed that this might be the problem?

Have a look and let me know what you think.

Thanks in advance!

Another quick report back:

Scraped rust out of radiator cap neck.  Lovely.

Drained coolant.  Still green, but swampy green instead of fluorescent green.  Flushed with water.  Added EvapoRust product.  Topped up with water.  Ran for two hours no load at low-mid RPM.  Will run again twice a day for the next few days like this, as recommended on the product label.

After running, drained oil.  It looks about as you'd imagine an oil new in 2002 would look.  Extra black with lovely metallic sheen, almost like one of those fancy hot rod paints which changes reflective qualities based on the angle you're looking at it.

I'm going to run Rotella with some Lucas oil stabilizer in it unless anyone has other thoughts on the topic they'd like to share.

Thanks John, man that's a hoot!  Glort has another subscriber thanks to you.  Time to binge watch some fire videos!

Any chance to get a link to the video, John?  Sounds like high quality entertainment to me.

Aaah... There should be a word for "The feeling you get when house guests finally go home."

Today I had some moments for myself for the first time in nearly a week.  The generator was unloaded much easier than it was loaded thanks to the Kubota M7040 and pallet forks.  I hacked a diesel line together, attached the battery, and it fired right up.  Whew!

Here's a few more shots of the engine data plate, which I couldn't see in the darkness of the garage before I picked it up and was too tired to find after the loading.  I love engine data plates.  So satisfying.

Well I tried hard not to get into political nuance.  It's a topic which influences our current discussion, however.

Glort, you're very well informed about the history of diesels and other small engines.  Thanks for your input on that.  But please don't assume everyone from the U.S. is completely naive about global politics and how things work.  I've been to every continent save Antarctica, at last count 25 countries, and have personally been to China to do product and factory inspections when we were thinking about importing and selling evacuated tube solar water heaters.  To be told I need to open my eyes to the nuances of politics comes across as being a bit off key.  And I also have no idea where you got the idea that I think Yanmar is Chinese.  I never said or even implied that to be the case, and I already own one of their tractors.  Also a Kubota and a Mahindra.  Yes, I also know the Mahindra is Indian, not Japanese or Chinese.

Also, the reason I'm here on this forum with you guys in the first place is that this is an exceptional repository of knowledge by some fine folks who live and breathe internal combustion.  Twice now I've been told to "Google it" as if I haven't put in the homework before asking questions.  Yes, I could do all this on my own.  And usually I do it all by myself.  But what fun is that?  How would I get the viewpoints of others who already have been steeped in the lore for decades?  How would I learn about the questions I don't even know to ask?  And also by asking the seemingly simple questions and having them answered here, they're saved for posterity.  And I think you all can admit that it's at least a little bit fun to be able to show off your hard-won knowledge to the newbie and to each other.

To outsource the search for knowledge completely to Google while ignoring the people's knowledge is going to be one of the downfalls of civilization.  The Lore should be kept alive from person to person, not outsourced to our Silicon Valley overlords.

Also as far as the rust removal from the water jacket goes, I'm first going to try an EvapoRust product called Thermocure.  It's designed to do exactly what we're talking about, and for $16 I'll give it a shot.  If I'm not satisfied with the result I'll up the ante and try some harsher chemistry.

Thanks guys.  Good info.

I've put a lot of thought into the IP theft by Chinese companies.  It seems to be absolutely endemic to their nature to take without asking and claiming IP as their own.  This will need to be addressed before they can be taken seriously a true global power.

All those sticky political issues aside, does anyone know which particular model of Kubota they knocked off with this design?  Also, why would they have chosen this particular Kubota design vs. any other diesel design within this HP capability?

Granted, I've just discovered the world of large single-cylinder diesels, but I think I'm beginning to get a grip on how they got here.  The Chinese singles (Changfa/Changchai/Laidong/et al) seem to be knockoffs or were at least heavily influenced by an old Yanmar walking tractor design.  They seem to have been originally created for use on said walking tractors, hence the otherwise inexplicable headlight commonly found on them.

Yet I've seen so many claims that they are actually a German design.  Would that be a German design specifically created for the Chinese makers, or would it be a patent-violating copy of a proven successful design?

And this leads me to another entire line of thought:  How did the Chinese choose which engines to copy?  Was it based on manufacturing ease, manufacturing cost, durability relative to cost, or fuel efficiency?  Is there a list somewhere of the "donor" engines which the knockoffs are based on?  For example, the 195 or 1115 design - is there a direct western or Japanese equivalent which was simply copied?

So many questions.  It really does fascinate me to try and figure this stuff out.

Very interesting tip about the kerosene and caustic soda.  Back when I first got into machine restoration I thoroughly pitted an aluminum guard for a South Bend lathe by leaving it sit in Purple Power cleaner.  Lesson learned there.

I'd read all about the trials and tribulations of that gps fella before arriving at my maximum offer price.  I figured with the generator head being of seemingly good quality, made in England and all, I could always remove the gen head from the motor if it craps out and turn it into a PTO driven or another small diesel genset.  My eyes were well and truly open.

There's something in me that seeks out the rare and unusual, especially things which are extremely prevalent in the rest of the world but for some reason aren't popular here in the U.S.  Some recent examples include my discovery of the Lister style engines and the Changfa diesels.  They currently provide power for so much of the rest of the world that it seems unbelievable that this style of engine never caught on here.  We have Briggs and Stratton, I guess.  But that seems like a pretty weak substitute for these things, which are designed to run on and on and on for years on end with minimal maintenance.  Maybe we don't have them because we've had for a very long time a fully developed and reliable electrical grid to power pumps and other industrial gear.

So this Chinese motor and its notorious unreliability is actually a selling point to me.  I want to run it and see if it fails, and I'm willing to take a gamble on it just to see how it plays out.  Who knows, maybe this is a clone of another design as was mentioned earlier, and it's made by one of the more dependable manufacturers.  Maybe the gps dude got a dud from a no-name chop shop.  I'll report back occasionally with the details.

My wife is very understanding regarding my unusual personality traits, have I mentioned that already?

Great stuff, guys!  I was hoping for this type of commiseration with fellow diesel sufferers.  It was an engine which was so rare in these parts that I just had to have one in order to play with it, and to see if (more like WHEN) it conks out.

More background:

This unit was sold new by Hardy Diesel back in 2002.  It currently has 332 hours on the Hobbs meter.  I've tried to both call and email Hardy Diesel regarding info on this unit but have received no response at this point.  They seem to have disavowed its existence, or have gone out of business.  I'd have expected better service from someone who has Paul Teutel Sr. as their celebrity representative! ;)

What shocked me about this motor is how solid it feels.  There's not much artwork used in reducing weight in the block casting, and it's so unexpectedly dense that I thought I might have missed lag bolts holding it down to the floor when I began to lift it with the boom pole on my tractor, a Mahindra 4505DI.  In retrospect I should have brought the Kubota M7040SU and had the extra lift capacity on the bucket loader with pallet forks.  The garage door at the seller's house was a bit low for that beastie, however.  But it all worked out in the end and without incident, so that's nice.

All in all, I thought the same thing as Glort - it should be a fun little unit to play with.  For the price, I have allowed it some mental wiggle room on the dependability factor.

Let's talk about rust in the cooling jacket.  How have folks successfully removed it without disassembling the entire engine and hot tanking?  I'm going to remove the radiator and have a pro give it a once-over.  Then it'll get all new fluids, belts, and hoses.  But from the look of the radiator I'm expecting some pretty significant rust in the jacket.  My normal rust removal techniques of electrolysis, muriatic acid, or purple power degreaser seem out of place here.

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