Lister ST2 (might be SR2) with a Brush SCAFF generator head, probably rated at around 7KVA. You will probably need to replace the old selenium rectifiers with modern silicon rectifiers. 1800 RPM indicates 60Hz so most likely a 110 volt output. Would have been built in the 1970s.

Bob

Hi Papster, the best way to decarbonise an engine is to inject water into the inlet manifold when the engine is hot. A household squirty bottle is ideal for this. Squirt the water in at a rate that just starts the RPMs to fall. You will need to do this once with the compression valves open and once with them closed, should clear the carbon.
There are proprietary products like Seafoam that will do the same thing.

Bob

Hi Glassblower, sounds like a plan. I am planning to fit an electrical inlet on the outside of my shed, this will allow me to hookup any one of my many generators when we get power outages.
Be warned the 8/1 is only a 6/1 with an aluminium piston allowing more RPMs, you will need a smaller pulley on the ST if you want to use that extra horsepower.

Bob

Very nice work. Welding in the wind can be very challenging but it looks to have come out OK. A 30 Amp outlet is a bit excessive, the 6/1 will stall at between 10 and 15 amps.
Looking forward to the rest of your build.

Bob

I very much doubt that you will  be able to recreate a SOM as they require a Brush generator head with it`s built in starter motor. The S series lister engines do have a mounting for a regular starter motor on the back of the flywheel housing, check to see if there is a toothed starter ring on the flywheel. I am not sure if this could be used to recreate an SOM The wiring could be very tricky.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

Bob

Good day, I largely agree with Oldgoat. Lister made a lot of generators based around their S series engines (ST, SR, SL). These had two solenoids mounted at the governor end of the engine. The front one is the fuel control solenoid and is connected to the fuel injector pumps, when energized it releases the fuel control racks allowing diesel to be pumped up to the fuel injectors. This solenoid is a latching solenoid with two coils and a small internal relay switch. During the start up process, 12 volt dc is fed through the two coils opening the fuel supply, once the solenoid is open the small relay switch is triggered turning off the voltage to one of the coils and the solenoid is able to stay open on just one coil.
The second solenoid is a 240v unit (110volt for US models), this is connected via a spring loaded linkage, to the two decompressor levers on the top of the engine. During start up the engine spins up without compression, as the generator head starts to produce electricity this flows to the solenoid coil opening it and pulling the two decompressor levers into the run position allowing the injected diesel to ignite.
These engine would have been set in the factory for 1500 RPM for a 50HZ generator or 1800 RPM for a 60 HZ output. My ST2 had some throttle adjustment available to fine tune the output.
Hope this is helpful,

Bob

Hi VP, very frustrating little problem you have there. In the past I have had to make replacement high pressure pipes, most car brake servicing centers stock 1/4" steel hydraulic pipe.
You could probably braze the crack but be careful to remove all the flux from the inside of the pipe, you don`t want it getting in the injector.

I`m one of those Damn Brits! I had the intelligence to leave that small island a long time ago. 

Bob

Looking good VP. I hope she starts up easily after all your hard work. Looking forward to the video. What are you going to restore next?

Bob